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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dropped it on left side, stayed like that for 2-3 minutes, rotor bathing in hot oil...
Is that heat demagnetizing a rotor? (we know heat does that to magnets, but this isn't glowing hot...and that's not much hotter than normal operation isn't it...)

I immediately lost 0.1v on the voltmeter... and low rpms are beating records of low voltages (used to see 13.8 , maybe 13.2 with the fan but it went down to 12.9v). Battery was changed a month ago and healthy.

Back home the next day I tested the stator cold resistance (I don't have much precision (0.1) but all 3 phases show about 0.1 to 0.2 ohm - all within spec) and the 4000 rpms AC voltage (without load unfortunately) are at 56V.

So I'm blaming the rotor, but what do you think? What happenned?
 

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Well you have read enough of my threads. I am surprised you chose to follow the manual, virtually a waste of time. Even with my Fluke 189 and using REL setting on ohms, it is a waste of time. A hard impact will damage the rotor magnet. Several have had stator failure after hitting the stator cover in a low speed crash. I have crash bars on plus highway pegs, virtually impossible to hit the cover ( which is actually the mounting point for the stator.)


Here is my test,( the only thing more accurate is removing the stator and checking with a LCR meter. I have one of those also)

.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well you have read enough of my threads. I am surprised you chose to follow the manual, virtually a waste of time. Even with my Fluke 189 and using REL setting on ohms, it is a waste of time. A hard impact will damage the rotor magnet. Several have had stator failure after hitting the stator cover in a low speed crash. I have crash bars on plus highway pegs, virtually impossible to hit the cover ( which is actually the mounting point for the stator.)


Here is my test,( the only thing more accurate is removing the stator and checking with a LCR meter. I have one of those also)

.
Thanks for posting links.
My memory isn't perfect and you wrote so much sometimes it's scary to plunge into it...
I'll see what I can find out with that.
 

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150% on that scary-- some days I need to read my posts twice馃ぃ馃槆, then take a nap
Consider the fact that this is my brain, how I think, I have many friends in the electrical field that start laughing , because they know that I am one in millions , they just roll their eyes. It took me almost 50 years to realize that I am different, I now apologize to those friends for having to put up with me.
 
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That linked thread and explanations and clarifications was a good read and generally applicable to a lot of Japanese bikes, thank you.
I have no Versys experience yet, but have seen the magnets in flywheels killed on other bikes with the use of an impact gun it doesn't take much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Rode yesterday. No behavior change, still suspiciously low charging voltages at low rpms.

Went to retest stator.
All phases are pretty balanced, they all show 24.5-25 Vac, and I suspect I was on the low side of 2000 rpms.
So everything before regulator is fine.

Now the fun part:

I'm listening to AM radio traffic on my way back. There was a strong whistling (when downtown the AM signal-to-noise ratio should have been enough to shut up any noise). That whistling was slightly higher pitch with lower rpms, and lower pitch with high rpms. I might be hearing the radio interference of the shunt regulator. I've heard noises from the bike in the AM signal before, but 60+ km from the city, and usually "with" the rpms, likely ignition/efi, dunno...

Just thought I'd mention. I think I will put a scope on the battery to see the quality of the charging voltage... Unfortunately, I have no "normal" recording to compare to.
 

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Do you have any current probes, like a P6021

I think all my scope waveforms saved are showing gate pulse/conduction using my series regulator. You should be able to pick up the ripple at the battery, and possibly trigger off one phase to the ground if you have two channels.
 

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2016 Versys 1000 CBF1000 VFR800
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Is it time to skip to the end and install an upgraded Shindengen regulator? I would, what's the downside?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Is it time to skip to the end and install an upgraded Shindengen regulator? I would, what's the downside?
I would rather buy another EOM overpriced shunt regulator likely to last another 100k than mess up my wires and connectors just to connect this...
If there is a model of some brand that is versys 650 gen3 compatible AND series regulator, then I'm interested.

Did I read somewhere that kawa has such series regulator on some latest models of some ninja?

(I'm aware and reading Regulator / Series/ Why Bother / Copied from Technical/... )
 

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I had a plug a play harness. I haven't given up, but it is likely a winter project. The header plug was designed to be soldered to a printed circuit board. Connecting to the triumph harness requires much more heat. I am now looking at soldering vertically in a water bath. I need to make a jig.
It plugged directly into the Kawasaki stator socket. For those wishing to do the least. A small N.O. relay added to the starter solenoid ground wire and using the tail light for the coil circuit.
No other wiring involved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had a plug a play harness. I haven't given up, but it is likely a winter project. The header plug was designed to be soldered to a printed circuit board. Connecting to the triumph harness requires much more heat. I am now looking at soldering vertically in a water bath. I need to make a jig.
It plugged directly into the Kawasaki stator socket. For those wishing to do the least. A small N.O. relay added to the starter solenoid ground wire and using the tail light for the coil circuit.
No other wiring involved.
a) where did you get the regulator side connector? salvaged an old defective one?

b) How long are the pins for that pc board connector? Can't you crimp with a suitable butt crimp/splice?

c) I have no idea what that normally-opened relay/starter solenoid bit is for...
 

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I have upgraded a few RR's on different bikes, hey, many have problems...... but I am V650 ignorant, so don't know what the original RR was or how it is connected.... can you take a pic of the stator connector end view and the connections on the RR itself. If typical, the RR is powered from the bike's main harness, positive and ground, maybe a redundant pair to go with it, and perhaps a trigger wire to switch it on when key on. There may or may not be a fuse in the power supply wires, might rely solely on the main fuse..... I don't have a service manual or wiring diagram.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have upgraded a few RR's on different bikes, hey, many have problems...... but I am V650 ignorant, so don't know what the original RR was or how it is connected.... can you take a pic of the stator connector end view and the connections on the RR itself. If typical, the RR is powered from the bike's main harness, positive and ground, maybe a redundant pair to go with it, and perhaps a trigger wire to switch it on when key on. There may or may not be a fuse in the power supply wires, might rely solely on the main fuse..... I don't have a service manual or wiring diagram.......
Thanks you for your support, but I'm not gonna touch the harness one bit.
The stator connect is unreachable for me; my XXL hand are too big as I recall from my last attempt.
There is no trigger wire afaict, only 3 phases in, ground and direct to main fuse according to wiring diagram.

The RR side connector is googlable: this is a fine example:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I went back early this morning.
I put a 100 ohms resistor in series while checking every phase, measuring milliAmps and milliVolts across the phase.
All 3 show 43mV / 117mA = 0.367 ohms.

That is beyond the service manual 0.264 ohms, but on all 3 exactly? I'm puzzled.
I'm measuring at the regulator end connector for convenience ok, but I can't imagine the small length between stator and this connector would add 0.10 ohms...
more importantly, exactly the same on all 3 phases...!

Even if both measures were off by 10%, the final calculation would be off by 21% only. This is about 50% off...
 

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I went back early this morning.
I put a 100 ohms resistor in series while checking every phase, measuring milliAmps and milliVolts across the phase.
All 3 show 43mV / 117mA = 0.367 ohms.

That is beyond the service manual 0.264 ohms, but on all 3 exactly? I'm puzzled.
I'm measuring at the regulator end connector for convenience ok, but I can't imagine the small length between stator and this connector would add 0.10 ohms...
more importantly, exactly the same on all 3 phases...!

Even if both measures were off by 10%, the final calculation would be off by 21% only. This is about 50% off...
I have another thread with FuseX and did a conversion, number of turns and wire length
needed . No time today but that sounds like Y connected.
 

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So here are photos never before posted by me.





The completed 4012941 SH775BA series regulator with Triumph harness and header plug. In operation in another country.
 
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