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Discussion Starter #1
New 2014 bike with 500 miles on the clock.

Initially, the bike shifted "OK", considering it was a brand new bike.

Now it has problems, especially from 2nd to 3rd, and on up. Sorta feels like somebody stuck a sponge between the shifting arm and the detent. Poor way to explain it, I guess. Takes much more than normal pressure to move the shifter and feels "mushy". It sometimes does not want to engage the next gear at all - and requires a second try.

Took it home and lubed the linkage. Checked the clutch disengagement. Everything looks good, and the shifter linkage seems free and has good travel.

Is this just a "VERSUS thing" or is there some history of shifter fork problems?
 

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Yeah, I thought about that. Made sure to move my foot completely away from the shift lever each shift.

Also, readjusted the shift lever a couple times, just to see if it would make a difference. It didn't.

I'm having a lot of fun with this bike and would hate to take it back to the dealer to sit for nobody knows how long before they could get to it.

Ugg.
 

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I just bought new boots the other day and have "missed" a gear twice on up shifts. So I need to adjust the lever. The new boots don't let the lever come down all the way to resting position. That said, I think I have read that others posted when shifting is difficult or no longer smooth, its time to change the oil. At 500 miles on new bike sounds like its time. I changed mine yesterday when I got home from work. Easy 15 minute task.

Hope this helps, just keep enjoying the ride.:)
Mike
 

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Shifting should get better and smoother with time! :D :thumb:
 

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Shifting should get better and smoother with time! :D :thumb:
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing.

Changed the oil & filter and it was a little better. Maybe it just needs to "break in" some more.

I had the opportunity to ride an nearly identical bike to mine, and it was the same way. Nature of the beast, I suppose.
 

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If you think something's not quite right, you could always bring it in to the dealer. It's still under warranty.
 

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the shifting on my 2013 improved noticeably after 1500 miles
I agree - miles, changing oil, and going to synthetic oil will ALL improve your shifting. When I wear my motocross boots I have to "adjust" how I shift to account for the extra height of the toe, as well as the stiffer construction.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I agree - miles, changing oil, and going to synthetic oil will ALL improve your shifting. When I wear my motocross boots I have to "adjust" how I shift to account for the extra height of the toe, as well as the stiffer construction.
I cannot go to synthetic oil. What's the fun in that?

I want to see those little ba$tard dinosaurs poke their little heads out... every now and then.

;)
 

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Before I changed out my break in oil I thought I had lost 6th gear. Changed oil and it was magically back.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm pretty sure they don't use "break-in" oil anymore, unless you mean the oil that's in the crankcase during the time that you are in the "break-in" period.

Nothing special about that oil.
 

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I'd pull the lever and grease the pivot point, mine was dry as toast. You have to pull the left foot peg bracket to do so but it helped mine a ton.

Plus it takes very little in the way of adjustment to make a large change in shifting I found.
 

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I bought my Mk2 with 18,4xx km on the clock.
I thought the shifting was iffy, and not consistent. (This is compared to my Suzuki DR200SE Trojan AG Bike)

Lubing the shift lever adjusting Rose joints did smooth it out some.
I could not take the socket off the ball to do a good grease job, so you have to squeeze grease in with a finger while moving the socket around and in and out. (Easier done when the adjusting rod is removed)

But the biggest gear shift improvement for me was doing solid shifts.

Another method is Loaded Shifting
Rather than confusing you saying this is Quick Shifting - it is more like Fast Shifting and is done by loading up the lever and taking up the slack and holding the lever pressure - as soon as you clutch-in the shift lever goes up and gives you a fast shift into the next gear. But you have to be able to feel the lever and the pressure it exerts back to hold it - you don't want to be heavy footed and doing clutchless shifting!

You might have problems doing Loaded Shifting with some boots that have hard toe caps which are large and gives your toes a lot of room inside, as you toes might not be able to feel the lever or lever pressure.

I commute to work in just some leather shoes, but I also ride with Touring Boots.
I have set my shift lever to be perfect in the Boots as it has a toe cap and it is uncomfortable to crank the toes lower to shift. Lever height is a bit high in the shoes but still ride-able... Down shifting I have to lift my foot a bit to tap the lever in either.

So I have worked out how to up shift fine in the bike, and If I don't Load Shift I have to make sure I Solid Shift. - forgetting to Solid shift and I find myself in the same gear sometimes! ... then I find that mythical 7th gear! Haha

I do have issues down shifting sometimes <20km/hr like form 4th down to 1st with clutch in and coasting to a stop - when I hit 3rd to 2nd or 2nd to 1st the lever goes limp and there is no weight or resistance at all and you have to tap a few more time. Id don't know if it's the neutral finder thing kicking in - and yes the bike is still rolling. Just weird sometimes.
 

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I had the exact same issue on my 2012. Shifted fine at first but at around 5,000 miles began missing shifts from 2nd to 3rd. I took it to the dealership and the mechanic said everything was fine after riding it. I just kept making adjustments to the shift lever keeping it tight and put up with it. At around 10,000 miles it went away and have not had the issue since, now at 21,000 miles. Thanks for posting, now I know it wasn't my imagination.
 

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The gear box is clunky when compared to Hondas I've owned in the past. Change to syn oil and put some miles on the bike. It gets better with time.
 
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