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I was wondering what is done when a bike is removed from the crate for sale? The rear wheel on my bike isn't straight according to the marks on the swingarm and the forks arent fully flush with the top clamps (1/4" showing). I also dont have any sag or much suspension travel on the front and I weigh 230. I dont want to mess with the fork unless it was set up wrong.
 

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I would take it to a local independent shop the does sport bikes and have them help you set it up right. Most dealers don't really know or care about proper set ups.

I'm a big and tall guy, 280lbs,6-2. The dealer looked at me like I had a third eye when asked about setting the bike up for me.

Local speedshop set it all up for about $60 and 45 minutes of time. Made the bike ride so much better.
 

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Markk9, mind sharing those settings? Sounds like we are about the same size and my nearest "local" speed shop is several hundred miles away.

The dealer "set mine up for me" given my size but turned out they just cranked the rear to max and tried to crank the forks to max but clock-wise and counter-clock-wise are apparently confusing so the front was set to max soft.

I've since just dialed in what I think will work but another data point would be great.
 

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I think the Versys is a pretty simple setup. All they do is put the front wheel, Calipers on, the windscreen and Mirrors and fill the battery with acid and install it. They may check the oil and that should be about it.

There has been talk in the past of Front Brake Calipers coming off that were not torqued at the dealer.

I never ride a new bike till I bring it home and go over it first.

Bought a new CBR 600rr and on the way home got a call telling me not to ride it... They left the bolts out of the Rider pegs. Only one bolt holding them on each side.

Todd
 

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Here is the thread I talked about my set up in:

www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12669


My local wrench said the stock spring set up would be good for street riding, but if I start taking a passenger, or doing tack days, I will need to upgrade the springs on both the front and back.
 

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Thanks Mark. I need to go check but I think I guesstimated it pretty close to that.
 

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Iforks arent fully flush with the top clamps (1/4" showing)
My manual says they shouldn't be flush:

Install the fork so that the distance between the top end [A] of the outer tube and upper surface of the steering stem head is the 12 mm (0.47 in.) [C].

That's not to say you might not want to adjust them to suit your needs but do so in small increments as the steering changes can be more than expected. Also be careful about bottoming parts if you raise the tubes further in the clamps.

The rear wheel alignment is something you need to get used to doing anyway for chain maintenance.

Don't know what the uncrating involves with J bikes these days but on the SuperDuke it was only battery and handlebars/controls.

As for suspension setup I've never had a dealer do anything other than stock settings. I weigh a bit less than you and ride aggressively. I'll be upgrading the front springs soon. The rear I can live with but if I'm not smooth I can make it wallow. I may re-spring that as well.
 

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Make sure the front wheel is installed the right way round. There are arrows on the wheel casting. Several people here have had this happen.
 

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Rear Wheel Alignment
take a peice of string about 15ft long and tie one end to a concrete block or other weight placed in front of the front tire. With the bike held upright run the string along the left edge of the front and back tire at the same height, just below the muffler. Run the string around the rear tire, taping it to the tread on the rear of the rear tire and back to the weight in front of the front tire. Adjust the rear wheel alignment so the string just touches on both sides of the rear tire and both sides of the front tire. This method is much more accurate than using the marks on the swing arm. Most racers use this method of alignment.
 
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