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**Shunt / Rectification / Voltage Control / Permanent Magnet / Field Strength**

I will try again, the title in this post contains Key information directly associated withThanks for info.

Would an OEM rectifier replacing the original one would improve the situation?

If I can just easily replace it and go another 40k I'd be happy. How much is a new one?

Shrinkable Sofa is available nation wide online at major retailers, a marketing campaign would make it more visible, but it's something so new, people still don't know it exists.

Still looking to license the ChainBath and Universal Backrest

Have another 2 ideas in works.

**Voltage Control**, rectification from 3 phase AC is accomplished many ways, we hear Mos Fet , SCR , pulse width modulated and more. I will continue after I give my opinion in the second part of this quote.

RM Stator is out of Quebec Canada, they sell China Y connected stators, short explanation is they will output 330 Watts the same as the OEM Delta wound, that is were it ends . Expecting a single 18 gauge magnet wire to carry 15 amp AC as opposed to the OEM Delta wound with two 18 gauge wires to carry the same 15 amp AC, well we know which stator will fail first. There are advantages of Delta over star or Y connected, not going there , but realaise the RM Stator made in China has roughly 60% of the copper compared to OEM. From the standpoint of a rewind shop, that is a red flag. That China Stator when converting to Y connected required the wire gauge to change to 15 gauge https://mwswire.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Copper-Magnet-Wire-Data.pdf or 3260 circular mils.Do the math. I converted motor windings some times from Y to Delta, simply because the wire gauge on Delta was smaller and easier to install the windings off the winding machine.Anybody has any review on this one:

https://www.rmstator.com/en_ca/products/voltage-regulator-rectifier-for-honda-trx-450-fourtrax-foreman-s-fe-fm-2002-2004-rm30422

it says it works on Versys 650 (double the price of the OEM)

__Voltage Regulation Permanent Magnet rotating FIXED magnetic Field__

Current is work done , voltage is the pressure of the system. Dealing with a

**fixed magnetic field**, the faster the engine turns the greater is the output of the stator , I highlighted fixed because this method is only used in motorcycles , cars , trucks and everything else regulates the field strength to match the load / voltage requirements of the machine.

Electronically how a series regulator accomplishes it's task whether SCR or PWM , doesn't matter. So that fixed field strength , the permanent magnet rotor , once the RPM is sufficient, we reach a point where the output from the stator matches our total loads and that includes charge current to the battery, let me pick 2000 RPM, say we are at 14.5 volts DC, increase to 2500 RPM and we are at 15 VDC, yes I have seen this on the OEM shunt reg.. Increase from 2500 to 2800 RPM, during this transition, the shunt regulator originally had a simple 3 phase 6 diode rectifier, no electronics required to produce DC, now at the 2500 to 2800 RPM transition we are coming close to blowing headlight bulbs and doing permanent damage to our electrical system, this applies to everything electric, we have surge protectors and many other devices in everything electric. So that 2500 to 2800 RPM we have the

**SHUNT**kick in , this is a electronically controlled

**variable load**placed across the output of that 6 diode rectifier , resulting in the DC dropping back to 14.5 VDC.

I am going to throw some values of wattage into the mix.So I know my base load is around 170 watts with low Beam and the Denali lights etc.. So if I had a shunt regulator, that 2500 to 2800 RPM transition, the shunt would add possibly 40 watts . At 3000 RPM it would be close to 100 watts and at or above 3500 RPM very close to 150 Watts, to maintain that 14.5 VDC and prevent it from exceeding that voltage. I have done several warnings about those that have gone about reducing there base load wattage by changing out the low beam headlight to LED, also reduce continuous loads such as city lights and license plate lights, because by reducing those loads, the shunt regulator needs to have the ability of shedding a increased wattage. So let us say I managed to change my base load by 45 watts, ( license plate is 5 or 10 watts, city lights are 5 watts each and my low beam was 55 watt now 36 SafeGo ) This would change my base load to

**125 watts.**

Go back to the 2500 to 2800 RPM transition, that 40 watts is now + 45 = 85 watts wasted as heat, above 3500 RPM it would be 150 = 45 = 195 watts. My point is the engineers didn't design in the ability to dissipate the increase in energy.Because the magnetic field is fixed,

__our only means of control__is by

**adding load to prevent a voltage increase**. That 195 watts, yes that is what the stator is producing in addition to the base load of 125 watts =300 watts load on the stator!!

__However along came Series regulators, much like a light dimmer technology. It rapidly switches the AC to produce full wave DC, so my base load of 170 watts at 1500 RPM is around 14 to 14.2 VDC. At 3500 RPM my base load remains very close to 170 watts and my stator produces 170 Watts. At 6000 RPM my stator is still producing 170 watts.There is no change between idle ( 1500 to 1550 , below that when above 80'F my stator can't maintain 14.2 VDC)__Extensive electronics, rapid switching, this has been perfected over time and the latest Polaris 4016868 rated at 50 amp is proof of improvements. A key point is my 2015 stator has a fixed output no matter what RPM I am at, it never sees full load unless I am running heated gear and heated grips, both at maximum, and my high beam on, think about it, with the ThermoBob , I am trying to keep the engine warm, no worries about the stator running hot or the regulator burning up and the magic smoke escaping>.

So I ask you which stator do you think will fail first, my 2015 running with a constant 170 watt load of the maximum available output of 330 watts . Or the MK-1;MK-2;MK-3 with the OEM shunt regulator running around 300 Watts at or above 3500 RPM continuous? I hope you now understand why switching to a series regulator has several advantages including extended battery life and those watts you free up converting to LED are actually available say for a pillion heated vest.

My hope is that Kawasaki converts to series regulators on the next generation, it appears that the Ninja 100 in 2016 is a series regulator and possibly the V1000 in 2018 is a series regulator. Why I think that is because they have the same two socket regulator like the Polaris and they are made by the same company. I need someone with a 2018 V1000 to test for me.