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I just replaced the stator and have a lot of expereince with this. Not likely during winter and on my shorts rides, and

However, the rectifier is a possibility - but wouldn't that only impact power from the engine, no the batter?

One the bike is running the voltage is over 14V and seems generally good, so I don't suspect either. However, it's quite possible either could have led to the battery dying.
 

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Bought a new battery for testing and a new solonoid to see if that changes it.

Sprayed some things down with deoxit and will do some ground checks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Bought a new battery for testing and a new solonoid to see if that changes it.

Sprayed some things down with deoxit and will do some ground checks.
First some common sense, if it started with a jump, it isn't the solenoid. I assume you used the pin #2 to #3 headlight relay mod for the Polaris, cut pin #2 wire to harness and taped. The instant the start relay pulls in and powers the positive to the start solenoid the headlight relay will drop outduring the cranking, I highlighted solenoid because many think we have one start relay circuit, when we actually have two.
I copied a thread where I discussed this about lithium batteries, a really bad idea for a motorcycle about 3 X $$$ that of a Yuasa AGM and no real advanatage
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...-liion-battery.html?highlight=lithium+battery
Not getting into it in this thread, but cold and lithium just don't mix period, talk nickle metal hydride and we are talking a totally different , a big fan of the Panasonic eneloop NIMH , they can sit on the shelf for a year and still be 95% of full charge.
The problem with lithium is it doesn't have the amp/hr cranking capacity . Charge rate is determined by the battery , not the charging system. FYI I mention this in the Polaris install, it has reverse polarity protection and also short circuit /load protection, what I mean by this is , if your bttery is completely drained and you boost the bike, best to leave the booster cables on for a f minutes, as the Polaris regulator needs roughly 8.5 VDC minimum to fire.
I will go through a cycle here how I assume your present start cycle works.
#1 key on= instrument powers up, fuel pump runs for 3 seconds, headlight is on
#2 push start button= headlight goes off, solenoid clicks in and sounds like the starter is trying to turn but won't, headlight might come on the instant you release the start button , you may also hear a multitude of clicking, in that the battery voltage is pulled down to below 8 VDC and both the start relay and start solenoid drop out for less than 5 milliseconds. It speaks the lack of cranking amp capacity.

In that lithium thread there is a warning about charging below freezing, absolutely dangerous, I have experience with lithium batteries, and have experienced thermal runaway, you have a stick of dynamite on your bike, yes technology is designed to fail safe, why put a device in something that experience high heat and extreme cold at more than 3 X $$$ of lead acid??

I also stated about life of a AGM battery using the Polaris regulator in post 32 and 33 of https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...067-batteries-charge-rate-loading-stator.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Example Of Posting / Two Forums

I posted in one thread, however a post in another thread went unanswered by me, same topic. I moved both to the same forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 · (Edited)
Updated thread

First I moved posts to the wrong thread, then realized we had similar posts but two threads, one existing one new one. I answered the new one not realizing the second in a different forum, thanks to Fasteddie , I discovered my mistake. So I moved relevant posts to here and closed https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...-other-topics/222979-no-power-wont-start.html thread.

If a post in the other thread is wished to be moved here, please post the post number you wish moved, spent way too much time on the forum today, may have missed something relevant .
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 · (Edited)
Option #3

Ok here's a new thought @onewizard or anyone else with more knowledge than myself.



If a switch were installed on the Yellow/Red wire (connecting the main fuse to pin#11 on the relay box), is the following correct?

1)When the switch is in the "off" position, the bike will not start, as the starter circuit is broken.

2)Once running, the switch will disable headlights but allow the bike to continue running, as the starter circuit relay is only required for starting.

3)The switch, when "off" would also eliminate the parasitic drain through the headlight relay.


Wiring intrigues me, but my electronics theory is much weaker than my ability to read a wiring diagram.
In option #3 https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1633961-post8.html adding a relay to the ground wire of the starter solenoid and connecting the coil circuit of that relay to ground and the tail light would accomplish what you suggest. FYI pin #11 goes to the starter solenoid positive side of the solenoid

I copied the relay diagram to this post, putting a switch in on pin 11 would solve the parasitic drain, however , it needs to be in the on position for the headlight to work , so if what you are asking, a 5th way of eliminating the drain, yes that would work.

 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Polaris Install Trigger Options

A option I recommend Triumph Harness, which involves getting 10 gauge butt splices and 14 gauge, what you require is dependent on the wire gauge of this harness. Triumph Harness advantage, is extra wire length , allowing cutting the original harness connector of Kawasaki leaving 1.5 to 2 inches of wire on the removed connector to allow restoration back to OEM when selling the bike.



Before starting, a explanation as to headlight relay and parasitic drain. The electronics of the Polaris is designed for a keyed main power relay, the Versys has no such thing, the regulator has full battery voltage to it all the time . Since the design of the Polaris depends on correct polarity as to + - and the control of the output uses the same +, there is a conflict, as the Versys headlight uses one of the 3 phase outputs to trigger the headlight relay.
You need to test the stator before starting, if you have shorted turns, adding a series regulator will free up power to hasten the failure of existing damaged windings, I don't want to hear someone say the Polaris caused damage , follow my post https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1341721-post1.html

I have come up with 4 options ( 2019 )to bypass this problem when installing either Polaris or CompuFire Series Regulators see post #3



Note October 2019 Option #1 is used mainly if you wish to leave the 3 phase stator plugs intact, you then need follow below, If you don't care about the 3 phase plugs, go to post 57 Option #4


Option #1 and #2 involve removing the gas tank #1 cut black pin #2 1.25" long and connect to gray 1/8 "striped insulation & soldering Pin#3 See Photo Verskpd#2 / Screwdriver


Option #2 also involves using a diode, unless you are familiar with electronics , and don't want the headlight coming on until you are ready to ride, my recommendation is to steer clear of this option.

Option #3 involves buying a cheap 12 volt relay but the gas tank can be left in place.

I strongly recommend installing a voltage indicating device,heads up by signal dynamics or neat little voltmeter as in my photo here

neat little volt meter, extremely accurate, day or night


Parts required & Tools

Triumph harness, T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator $9.08 - 2WheelPros



Using the Triumph Harness: Keep in mind, with the harness you have a additional 5 connections, you will need to cut the connectors off the end that would go to the stator, and butt splice or solder these 5 connections.The two insulated 10 gauge but splice crimps and three 14 gauge insulated butt splice crimps, are required when using this harness ( if you wish to solder that would eliminate the crimps). Several people have stated they found it easier to use the Triumph harness. I now recommend going this route, many don't know how to crimp and the Polaris is a bit of a oversize spade.



( I no longer recommend this)----if you plan on going with the OEM wiring and no after market harness; you need two insulated 10 gauge female spade stakon crimps and three 14 gauge female spade insulated crimps, ( 2 insulated 10 gauge butt splices , 3 insulated 14 gauge butt splices or solder in place of the crimps ) some silicone, 3 feet of 16 or 18 gauge wire, also 16 inches of #10 stranded insulated, plastic sandwich bag if you are not using the Triumph harness.Using 1/4 inch female spade stakons direct to the Polaris, expect to need to open the very start of the spade connector, as the Polaris male spade connectors are oversize in thickness, using electrical grease sparingly is also a good idea in either case of install.
I used a wrap of electrical tape around each spade connector, this allowed me to pump in silicone into the cavity , I reverse the tape after the first wrap, sticky side out, using half laps refereed to as reverse taping and the purpose of the sandwich bag.

Before you start, remove the positive battery terminal , instead of the main fuse.

Wiring of Polaris colour code, looking at inside male spade terminals, grey socket on left, black output socket on right. Left grey socket is 3 phase input in any order, that is the 3 black wires . Black output socket is left terminal Positive output, OEM Kawasaki Positive wire is white with a blue tracer. Black output socket right terminal is negative output, Kawi colour is black with a yellow tracer.
This is a 07 using the older non Triumph harness method


Again this is the old method, I released some slack in the harness close to the throttle cable, gains about 8 inches of extra wire length. If you had a Triumph harness , butt splices or solder would be in place of the female spade crimps.
Also note the brown wire is taped to protect it, as it is no longer reguired unless you wanted to use it to power led lights from a key switch.

Have a close look at the white/ blue, you will see the black electrical tape on the yellow insulated sleeve, I did one full wrap over the female spade part ,this was done because fully insulated stakons wouldn't fit inside this socket and was done to prevent silicone from entering this area, anyone that has used silicone knows how hard it is to remove once cured

this is the DIY before the Triumph harness was discovered. Notice the brown wire remaining in the harness, this was a keyed control on these early versions, needs to be isolated / taped.

The following photo was before triumph and back or reverse taping, this allows easy removal later, a sandwich bag was used and all the connectors were pushed through a small hole in the bottom, silicone was pumped into the socket and a small amount into the bag, which was taped in place onto the regulator, then the silicone was formed, last reverse tape this later a matter of scoring the tape, once the silicone cures the tape is redundant.


FYI if you make a mistake on the output wires, that is put positive where negative should be **good news, you get nothing outputted , also if you connect all 3 phase, start the bike and don't have both positive and negative connected and also to a battery with a minimum 8 volts, again you will get no output.

This is for option 2, view of my 2015, however all years are similar, note the red clip holding the fuel line in place, I describe this in detail in my valve shim thread. No room in this post as I have a limited # of characters .

So much discussion in previous posts about the diode, if you are not planning on using a diode, see wiring diagram Page 16-80 of the service manual ( 2015).

You need to cut the black wire pin#2 of the center headlight relay, like in my following post. Without a diode there is a 70% chance of the headlight coming on before you hit the brake, remember the headlight relay latches into the on position and will only turn off by hitting the start button or turning the key off, just a FYI. I like to bring the battery up to full charge while warming the bike up and also the load on the motor is reduced, there is a downfall to this circuit, on 2 occasions I have started the bike and was in gear, never touched the brake for 3 KM, and had no headlight, but I have Denali lights on all the time.




View of the relay box 2015 Versys Photos








Top of 2015 showing the fuel tank rubber mounts, tank slides back to remove, also shown is the connector going to the front brake


Front brake connector , note purple wire I added for my headlight relay trigger cct. also note the blue with red tracer is the brake signal and a small piece of insulation was removed and I soldered the purple wire to it





Verspkd #1

So the relay box end , center connector is the headlight relay, below is the connector with pin #2 black wire about to be cut and my purple trigger wire waiting to be soldered
Verspkd #2 Note the Black pin #2 and gray pin#3 with the screwdriver between

here is the purple soldered to the old 3 phase output #1phase wire, pin #2 black, which has been taped the same as the brown wire, no longer needed, but still powered

If you look real close you will see the black wire taped with yellow tape, I use yellow as it is a standard for external live parts and gets your attention

Joint is taped

A trick to taping in confined spaces using a tool such as this bent screwdriver
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 · (Edited)
Option #3 / Solenoid Ground / Relay Added

wip
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
It had to happen sometime. Stuck in Lodi...well actually Ojai. My trusty Versys turned into a Ford this week. Found On Road Dead.

Monday I launched from Fresno on a 3 day ride. The plan was to stay with my buddy Dave in Goleta for a couple of days of riding in the area. Day one was to head to Santa Barbara via 41 south to interstate 5 south and connect with state route 33 and up over the coast range into Ojai, then on to Santa Barbara and Goleta. All was good on day one. Snapped a few pics starting at the Ozena Fire Station at the base of the 33. Snagged a few more pics at the top of the 33 looking North. Then going down the south side looking south towards the ocean.

The pics of the little creek was the major area of the terrible flood/mudslide in Montecito of a few years ago. Prior to the mudslide that entire area was full of trees and vegetation so you could not even see the creek. Now it is about a 50 yard wide area that was scoured out down to bed rock. Many houses and lives were lost. Really sad.

Tuesday day 2 was a fun run south on the 101 to ride all the cool canyon roads in the Malibu area, including the world famous "Snake." We stopped at the old Paramount Ranch to see if it had been rebuilt after the 2018 Woolsey fire. Unfortunately it had not been rebuilt yet. The little white church was the only structure that survived...hum perhaps God really was looking down on one of his houses?

After lunch in the Bu we headed north on the 1 to Latigo Canyon. One of my favorite roads in the area. So many turns it will make you dizzy. Dave and I both got passed by a hot rod Camero that was really putting down some lap times. We headed north winding our way thru the Simi Valley thru Santa Paula and then took the back way into Ojai via the 150. This is where the trouble began. The BIG RED light on the dash suddenly came on for an oh crap moment. Stopped for a quick assessment. Oil and water levels were ok. Nothing was overly hot or noisey so off we go into Ojai where she totally quit running. See pic of my F O R D in front of the Home Kitchen.

Shot down by the....wait for it... drum roll please... the good o'l STATOR failure. She ran till the battery went flat. Discovered that you are good for about 10 miles on battery power only when the charging system goes off line. Thank God it happened in Ojai cuz my buddy Chris (the guy working on my bike in the pic. I told him to smile but instead he grabbed his torch and puts on his attitude face) owns the local motorcycle shop in Goleta and lives in Ojai. I call Chris and he comes to my rescue with his truck. He has his commuter bike in the back, so we unload his bike and load up mine. He goes home and I take the truck and my bike to Dave's for the night. The next morning at Chris's shop we determine that the stator had failed. So instead of ordering the parts and waiting a couple of days, Chris steals the stator off a bike on the show room floor and I am up and running is a couple of hours. Boy howdy let me tell you it's not what you know but who you know. I told him he is very lucky he is not a girl cuz I would give you a big kiss!

After taking him to lunch, on my dime of course, me and Dave did a short shake down ride up on East Camino where we shot some pics of the views and of us sitting on couch rock. I discovered the rock back when I lived in the area. It's just like a big couch with a foot stool rock in front. It looks down on Santa Barbara and the Channel islands to the south and north you see the Santa Ynez mountains and valley. On a super clear off shore wind day you can see south almost all the way to Catalina Island. It's super quiet up there with views to die for. I used to go up there to think and pray and chill.

Thursday was the ride home. Total miles for 4 days was 720. And I am happy to report my old tired decrepit broken down back did just fine the entire time.
Wow, a 2015 with stator failure. I had a few set backs over the last week, but have 3 Polaris regulators ( 4012941) I intend to post For Sale Saturday or Sunday, one is already spoken for. This will be my last at selling these,I now recommend buying directly from Polaris using the 4016868 Polaris which works best on the MK-3 due to a larger footprint, one member posted installing one on a MK-2. I will have more detail in the For Sale
 

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would it be worth getting one just to have as a back up?...
The number looks right, 4016868, but better PM Onewizard. The point of getting a series regulator to replace the basic shunt OEM is to keep your stator from overworking and dying in an awkward situation. So if you buy it install it, not that hard but a bit of wiring retrofit. Many of us have done it...
Get one, and INSTALL IT ASAP! The stator in my '08 died at 68,680 miles, even tho' I had replaced the regulator w/ a POLARIS R/R at 65,383 miles as obviously the stator was ALREADY damaged from the 65,383 miles ridden w/ that POS OEM SHUNT REGULATOR in it!

I replaced the R/R in my '15 V650 [which is in BC, 1,700 miles N of AZ] (w/ another POLARIS R/R, but I can't remember the mileage at which I did it, but I'm VERY happy that I DID change it!

I've NOW changed THREE regulators: a Compufire (along w/ a stator from RMSTATOR in Quebec) in my '09 which I then "wrote-off" because of a low-side crash on the Dempster Hwy in the North West Territories, June '15; a Polaris (along w/ an Ebay [Chinese] stator) in my '08 last fall; and JUST FINISHED changing to a Polaris in my '15 650 - the Gen 3.

FIRST order of business is to say that I PROBABLY couldn't have done them w/out the help of our resident electrical genius - Glen (onewizard) - and so this is my BIG-G-G "Thanks Glen!"
:thumb: - :thumb:

Glen set-up the Polaris regulators for me, then mailed them to BC, and I started the change-over on Monday, finally finishing yesterday - Tuesday. First pic shows the GREEN HORNET TOO waiting for the wrenching (dirty, TOO!):



This is a gen 1 photo but the colour code is the same for all 3 , the Triumph harness makes it much easier as you can see ( I made a harness for Ed , all high temperature SEW stranded wire rated 200'C, the red silicone is high temperature RTV), the 2015 is short on wire length everywhere ( onewizard)

Second shows the Polaris regulator as set-up by Glen, the 'roll' of blue wire for the FINAL part - getting rid of the parasitic electrical drain (that occurs when you change from a 'shunt' regulator to a 'series' one). The black bracket was included IN CASE it was needed, but I managed w/out it, altho' the bolt spacing is about .250" different, one to the other.



Pic 3 shows the OEM regulator still in place.



Removing it was easy - undo two 10 mm sized capscrews (which are holding the R/R to the Versys) then the plug at its left (POSSIBLY the easiest plug I've removed from a Kawi...!), shown in "Pic 4".





I tried removing the 5 wires but failed until I removed the yellow plastic plug (insert a regular screwdriver at EITHER end, then gently twist - BINGO - it comes out)



NOW - how to remove the 5 wires which are pushed UP from the bottom, and 'click' in....

I tried and tried, but I was missing a hand - you need THREE or FOUR to do this - then I called my neighbor (rides the Ducati) who supplied the 'missing' hands, and OUT they came.





(I like the 'rubber bits' Kawi uses to keep out the water.) You'll notice an elongated hole at the upper right of the bracket the OEM R/R was attached to - this is to attach the Polaris R/R - and is elongated to make up for my mis-marking the hole's center before I drilled (then I painted the edges w/ black TremClad paint) making up for the 1/4" difference. As it does NOT have an attached nut behind it, I used a longer 6mm bolt c/w a washer AND a lock-nut for the upper bolt.



The way we removed the wires was by using a small 'jewellers-screwdriver', pushing it down (towards the side that has ONLY two wires) while pulling the wire from below. In this pic you can see the little "tit" that you need to press, towards my thumb in the five holes.



Now I had to decide WHERE to cut each wire to allow me to crimp on a 'female' socket ('insulated quick connector' is what's on the bag I have of them) that would allow me to re-attach the OEM stuff in future IF I decide to sell the bike, so I cut-back the plastic sleeve that Ma Kawi 'thoughtfully' :confused: supplied around the 5 wires on the "bike" side of the R/R connector, then left about 3/4" of wire sticking out of the OEM plug, and crimped on connectors.



The 3 greyish-black wires are from the stator, going TO the R/R, the 'black/yellow trace' one is going to the main harness, as is the 'white' wire. BOTH the white and black/yellow are already crimped into a connector, while the first of the stator wires has had its end 3/4" removed preparatory to crimping it. The two larger tubes are drains.



:clap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 · (Edited)
Polaris / 4012941 Fakes/ 4016868 No Proof/ Option #3

would it be worth getting one just to have as a back up?
and is this it? https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Regu...sr_1_2?keywords=4016868&qid=1582419028&sr=8-2
I have posted for years to verify the 4012941 by the numbers printed opposite the sockets, SH775BA and 4012941 both appear. When on Ebay the first fake indicator is if it is under $150 USD listed as NEW. The second indicator is if there are numerous photos, but none showing the side with the printing on.

The number looks right, 4016868, but better PM Onewizard. The point of getting a series regulator to replace the basic shunt OEM is to keep your stator from overworking and dying in an awkward situation. So if you buy it install it, not that hard but a bit of wiring retrofit. Many of us have done it...
Yes I have stepped back from buying and selling the 4012941 ,when what I have are gone , that will be it, shipping is ridiculous and it has become a bit overwhelming with my last purchase, PayPal screwed me around and went and used my credit card, even though money was in the bank, this happened over Christmas so it took 3 weeks to sort out.Our dollar dropped and they tried to hit me with a $$ increase over the original purchase, over 5 phone calls and 2 supervisors, mid January I finally got my account with PayPal working again.
As to the newer Polaris the 4016868, the only way I would purchase that is from a Polaris dealer, I paid $128 Canadian ( $15 of that was tax)in July 2018.
I say the only way from a Dealer , because there is no markings or other way to prove it isn't a fake.So the days of buying used on Ebay, are gone unless you are buying from a wrecker and it is out of a sled . Most of these wreckers are selling these at 60% to 75% of new, is it really worth it saving $$ when shipping needs to be added into the equation?

I am trying to get all the photos together and post in For Sale tonight.

Cut and pasted From Ed so completed post is now in order

Copied from FastEddie , for his complete install on a 2015 Versys 650 go here ;https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...mk-1-2-3-650s-revised-2019-a.html#post1366202

Once I had crimped the connectors (3) onto the stator wires, I looked at WHERE (and HOW) I could route them, then after a 'trial-fitting', attached everything.





Glen also included some of that 'wire-loom' plastic so I enclosed the wires in it (THIS after trial-fitting the side fairing to ensure that everything would fit OK)...!





I also made this HELPFUL note:



...so I took a pic looking DOWN at the gas tank, right side....



On the Gen 1 Vs I'd had to cut a wire (going to the main fuse area) to stop an electrical drain, then add a diode to stop the drain, but on the Gen 3 there's been changes to some wiring.


Option #3

Actually I ( Onewizard)came up with a easier method of isolation after a member got a little snarly and thought there should be a plug and play method., I intend to do the alternative method post in this thread, the advantage of this method is no tank removal.

This requires that you pull the MAIN (30 amp) FUSE, disconnect the plug that goes to the small covered area where the main fuse is, then as the "parasitic drain" happens thru the GROUND (black/yellow again) wire, you need to make it ONLY pass current when you want it to (while running the engine). The method is to cut that black/yellow wire (AGAIN leaving enough wire BOTH sides of the cut) to solder about 24" of wire to each end. (THIS 'breaks' that 38 milliamp drain.)

Option #3 Cut Solenoid ground, connect to relay, coil cct use tail light

What you're going to do w/ the two 24" wires, is to run them to an "ORDINARILY OPEN" relay, and 'triggered' by either your running lights or stop lights, which I decided to put to the rear of the battery, towards the right side. Here are the two wires soldered, then 'shrink-wrapped' w/ them leading to the underseat area.



I used the 'rear running lights' as the trigger



then attached them thus: the "black/yellow" 2 wires go to #87 and #30, then are triggered by the running lights attached to #86, w/ the ground supplied by another wire going from a frame ground to #85.

HOW it works is, that by cutting that "black/yellow" wire you disable the drain, then by 'firing' (triggering) the relay by something ONLY powered ignition ON, everything operates normally on start-up.



And here's the left side "buttoned-up".



HOPE this is helpful to some of you....
 

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Do the Polaris regulators fit the plug on the bike or do you have do do modifications?
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 · (Edited)
Regulator Load Testing/ 4012941 Polaris / 2015 Versys 650ABS /

Automotive wire gauge current rating and residential, commercial, industrial is much different. I have always used tables related to the electrical code. Several advantages , one being drawing heat away from the connection point. I use 10 gauge at 30 amp, 12 gauge at 20 amp and 14 gauge at 15 amp. The crimps are blue for 14/ 16 gauge and yellow for 10 / 12 gauge. So I wired the regulator using 150'C wire 14 gauge for the 3 phase and 200'C extra flexible 10 gauge for the DC output.
Below are photos of the PITA 3 phase connector, almost impossible to access , but what I use to load test all regulators. I have oxford heated grips, a 65 watt high beam and 36 watt LED low beam plus my Denali LED lights. I used a AC clamp on amp probe for measuring AC current on each phase under load.




Notice the fuel line disconnected from the throttle bodies, yes the wire is that short, plus the last time I had the 3 phase socket disconnected, it wasn't locked in so in my attempt to gain wire access from the water protecting boot, instead the female socket remained inside, what a PITA to get it out, hence the main throttle sensor disconnected and fuel line.



Not in order but finally both halves of the 3 phase connector



Look real close, fuel bung visible and white connector partially together



And finally all together, used vaseline on the fuel bung , also got the protective boot pulled down over the three harness connectors, just lower right of the fuel line



And a completed 4012941 Polaris regulator ready to go, 10 gauge SEW high temp silicone tined copper wire on the DC and 14 gauge high temperature extra flexible on the 3 phase input. I used T&B ( Thomas and Betts blue and yellow spade stakons adapted to the spade connections of the regulator, FYI they are 1/4 inch by about 1 mm . Standard is 0.035 , the Polaris is 0.0393 of a inch.I seal this with black silicone rated for 205'C , rated down to minus 50'C . When I do these , it is done in such a way that it can be taken apart, all terminals are protected from the silicone seal, I give a wrap of tape around each female spade terminal.
Anyone here because of interest in my For Sale, I have a special harness I made, every regulator has been load tested on my 2015 Versys, currents per phase have reached 15 amp using my Fluke 189 and a 500 amp AC clamp on .

 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
MK-3 Footprint Different / Work around

Get one, and INSTALL IT ASAP!
:thumb: - :thumb:





Removing it was easy - undo two 10 mm sized capscrews (which are holding the R/R to the Versys) then the plug at its left (POSSIBLY the easiest plug I've removed from a Kawi...!), shown in "Pic 4".





I tried removing the 5 wires but failed until I removed the yellow plastic plug (insert a regular screwdriver at EITHER end, then gently twist - BINGO - it comes out)



NOW - how to remove the 5 wires which are pushed UP from the bottom, and 'click' in....

I tried and tried, but I was missing a hand - you need THREE or FOUR to do this - then I called my neighbor (rides the Ducati) who supplied the 'missing' hands, and OUT they came.





(I like the 'rubber bits' Kawi uses to keep out the water.) You'll notice an elongated hole at the upper right of the bracket the OEM R/R was attached to - this is to attach the Polaris R/R - and is elongated to make up for my mis-marking the hole's center before I drilled (then I painted the edges w/ black TremClad paint) making up for the 1/4" difference. As it does NOT have an attached nut behind it, I used a longer 6mm bolt c/w a washer AND a lock-nut for the upper bolt.



The way we removed the wires was by using a small 'jewellers-screwdriver', pushing it down (towards the side that has ONLY two wires) while pulling the wire from below. In this pic you can see the little "tit" that you need to press, towards my thumb in the five holes.



Now I had to decide WHERE to cut each wire to allow me to crimp on a 'female' socket ('insulated quick connector' is what's on the bag I have of them) that would allow me to re-attach the OEM stuff in future IF I decide to sell the bike, so I cut-back the plastic sleeve that Ma Kawi 'thoughtfully' :confused: supplied around the 5 wires on the "bike" side of the R/R connector, then left about 3/4" of wire sticking out of the OEM plug, and crimped on connectors.



The 3 greyish-black wires are from the stator, going TO the R/R, the 'black/yellow trace' one is going to the main harness, as is the 'white' wire. BOTH the white and black/yellow are already crimped into a connector, while the first of the stator wires has had its end 3/4" removed preparatory to crimping it. The two larger tubes are drains.



:clap:

So I took my 2015 OEM regulator and put it against one of my 4012941 regulators. Kawasaki got lazy, made two elongated holes and the mounting center for the OEM is greater than the Polaris judging by the polished surface of my OEM regulator. What I would suggest is use the top mounting hole for the Polaris and use blue loctite, the lower hole of the Polaris I would use a wire tie through the hole and welded nut, there is no heat dissipation or electrical continuity required between the regulator and steel mounting. Notice the depth or thickness of the Polaris is almost double that of the OEM.
 

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my versys has 40k km now.

I'm looking for a simpler version to change this, I don't want to end up stranded on the road (once was enough when my batt died ;) )

Help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 · (Edited)
my versys has 40k km now.

I'm looking for a simpler version to change this, I don't want to end up stranded on the road (once was enough when my batt died ;) )

Help!
When You find a simpler version send me a PM. I could make it easier if a male socket was made to fit the OEM regulator, along with male crimps to match the socket. You have a 2015 , nothing is simple when discussing wiring on the 2015, everything is short. Since the new Polaris 4016868 has the cooling fins at right angles of OEM and it is physically larger, I made a adapter plate when I mounted the 4016868, at the time I had sold all my 4012941 , got a itch in July and bought a used one then December I had a brain fart and bought 2 more**the end, how is the couch business ?

I stand corrected http://www.cycleterminal.com/fsw-rectifier-connector.html They now make a printed circuit board header male socket at $4.55 US
Furukawa FSW FP-C-SW6M-B Male Header
I have no idea what the solder points are, the size and any other info. Too late in my life to start screwing around now with it. Someone want to buy one and send it to me, I might consider it.
 

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Thanks for info.
Would an OEM rectifier replacing the original one would improve the situation?
If I can just easily replace it and go another 40k I'd be happy. How much is a new one?

Shrinkable Sofa is available nation wide online at major retailers, a marketing campaign would make it more visible, but it's something so new, people still don't know it exists.
Still looking to license the ChainBath and Universal Backrest ;)
Have another 2 ideas in works.


When You find a simpler version send me a PM. I could make it easier if a male socket was made to fit the OEM regulator, along with male crimps to match the socket. You have a 2015 , nothing is simple when discussing wiring on the 2015, everything is short. Since the new Polaris 4016868 has the cooling fins at right angles of OEM and it is physically larger, I made a adapter plate when I mounted the 4016868, at the time I had sold all my 4012941 , got a itch in July and bought a used one then December I had a brain fart and bought 2 more**the end, how is the couch business ?

I stand corrected Furukawa FSW They now make a printed circuit board header male socket at $4.55 US
Furukawa FSW FP-C-SW6M-B Male Header
I have no idea what the solder points are, the size and any other info. Too late in my life to start screwing around now with it. Someone want to buy one and send it to me, I might consider it.
 
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