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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks, thought I'd toss my situation out there and see if there's any easy answers I'm missing.

Recently my 2010 V650 (18,000 miles) has been running pretty rough, I thought at first it was water in the tank but I went through draining the gas and problem persists still there.

Around 5000 rpms I'm getting a lack of power, it almost stutters it seems. 5000 is where it shows up first, but if it's hotter outside it's worse, everything from 4000-8000 is bad, and at idle it stalled on me in an intersection.

On a 60°F day it rides normal, on an 80° day it's just about unrideable. I didn't notice that the temp affected it so drastically until recently, which has me thinking it isn't getting the right fuel air mix. Wondering if it's an air sensor maybe?

Things I've done/had done:

Checked tank vent tubes for blockage, they were clog free.

Had air filter cleaned.

Oil changed within last 200 miles.

Dropped tank, drained fuel, refilled with good gas and threw some seafoam in.

Scratching my head on this one, plan is to take it to a different dealer (last one said there was nothing wrong) in a month or so when I've got some extra cash, but if it's something simple I could fix myself I'd prefer to do it that way.

Just strange that on a 55° morning it runs like new but if it's 85 on the way home it's downright scary.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
Rick


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Discussion Starter #3
Does it start hard? You said you cleaned the air filter. Did you over oil it? I did that once. Rough when warm sounds rich. Wait, what about plugs and coils?
Starts fine, idles fine until you're under way and it's hot out. Haven't replaced plugs or coils, was thinking that's the next step. I even double checked the filter about a week ago thinking maybe I did over oil it but it's fine. The effect temperature has on it has me puzzled.

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is it worse once it the bike is fully up to temp? id throw my vote at the coils and plugs, or it could be your fuel pump going out
 
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I am unsure if the second gen versys is like the first gen where it doesn't have an O2 sensor or not. But lookup the forums on here about the tps sensor adjustment. Mine behaved similarly and only had noticeable lean firing problems (backfire popping through airbox on decel, rough running etc) when it was warm outside. The tps was adjust too far on the bottom of the voltage spec causing the overly lean air/fuel mixture. Once I adjusted the tps to the middle of the voltage spec, it's been running perfectly ever since.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/9-technical-discussion/5094-tps-setting-adjusting.html
 

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I am unsure if the second gen versys is like the first gen where it doesn't have an O2 sensor or not..../QUOTE]

NEITHER has the O2 sensor on North American bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
is it worse once it the bike is fully up to temp? id throw my vote at the coils and plugs, or it could be your fuel pump going out
Engine temp seems to have zero effect on how it runs, if it's 60 outside it will run fine whether I run 10 mins or 2 hours. If it's 80 it runs terrible whether the engine is cold or warmed up.

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Discussion Starter #11
I am unsure if the second gen versys is like the first gen where it doesn't have an O2 sensor or not. But lookup the forums on here about the tps sensor adjustment. Mine behaved similarly and only had noticeable lean firing problems (backfire popping through airbox on decel, rough running etc) when it was warm outside. The tps was adjust too far on the bottom of the voltage spec causing the overly lean air/fuel mixture. Once I adjusted the tps to the middle of the voltage spec, it's been running perfectly ever since.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/9-technical-discussion/5094-tps-setting-adjusting.html
I gave the TPS idea a go once, minor adjustments either way just seemed to change where the stutter happens. I chickened out after first couple adjustments, acknowledging I wasnt doing it the right way (by eye rather than with a voltometer and the proper probes). FWIW I tried rotating slightly both clockwise and counterclockwise and like I said, it just seemed to change the RPM where the stutter kicked in.

I'll probably give it another go this weekend.

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I gave the TPS idea a go once, minor adjustments either way just seemed to change where the stutter happens. I chickened out after first couple adjustments, acknowledging I wasnt doing it the right way (by eye rather than with a voltometer and the proper probes). FWIW I tried rotating slightly both clockwise and counterclockwise and like I said, it just seemed to change the RPM where the stutter kicked in.

I'll probably give it another go this weekend.

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Yep I would for sure buy the harness adapter lead (Kawasaki part # 57001-1538) so you can set it exactly. You can get the voltage range from the fsm. As for the "stutter", I still get a tiny stutter on takeoff on a rare occasion. But if it does happen, it only lasts for a split second and it is nothing like it was before which I find acceptable. Open loop fuel injection is never going to give that near perfect A/F ratio like a closed loop one will sadly.
 

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Main Throttle & Sub Throttle

I gave the TPS idea a go once, minor adjustments either way just seemed to change where the stutter happens. I chickened out after first couple adjustments, acknowledging I wasnt doing it the right way (by eye rather than with a voltometer and the proper probes). FWIW I tried rotating slightly both clockwise and counterclockwise and like I said, it just seemed to change the RPM where the stutter kicked in.

I'll probably give it another go this weekend.

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The harness works for both and you need to follow procedure in the manual, http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/122090-tps-throttle-position-sensor-modification-mk-1-mk-2-a.html, if you don't have a manual it is in the How To Forum, available to download.There are owner manuals and service manuals, all by year. It is important to follow procedure, as some tests are cold engine and some are hot, with motor not running and WOT voltage measurement.
 

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Now that I can post lets see if I can help--first I think you gave all the info need to fix- second you will need a good ohm's meter and know how to use it and the service manual- if you do not have one you can download it on the internet for free-it seems to me that your ECU is picking up a wrong signal and being it's temperature sensitive first check any senor dealing with temperature water or air-forget coils- plugs- O2 senor or anything else for now- if any senor checks weird or so-so get a spray bottle with cold water in it and spray the senor to see if that helps-if that does not fix it after testing the sensors get back on here and we will bump it up a step-----hope this helps-this info is very close to what onewizard just said- except all these test are done cold first test- than start and heat the bike up and retest-you need both values
 

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Discussion Starter #16
UPDATE:
Changed plugs, coils, air filter (had a piece missing after a dealer told me they replaced it 6 months ago 😑)... Thought I had it figured out.

Went to meet a buddy at a dealership and the symptoms returned but manageable... Got to the dealership, made an appt with to get it in, left. 3 miles down the road I get to an intersection, give it half throttle and I can't get it to rev above 2k. Pulled over, turned around, left it at the shop.

So what it turned out to be was a corroded connection between the TPS and the ECU. Had bike back for 2 weeks and it's (Knock on wood) been fine.
 

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Very Old Thread / problems?? / Start a New Thread

and what does it means? Where it was corroded?
In TPS connector or in joints between TPS and ECU or in ECU connector?
As in the title, much faster to start a new thread, state year and model of bike. Put as much detail in as possible. the thread can be moved later. Let us know if it is problems, if you have a meter, much of these ECU / TPS require a good meter and the wire harness from Kawasaki.

FYI last poster was on January 2019, the other was 2018 you will have a long wait for a reply from either
 
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