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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone got a suggestion for removing oil filter (Versys-x 300)?
I bought a 65mm cap-wrench but I can't get it on as the headers are too close. So I need a strap wrench or plier type...I know someone out there is as expert with this bike...thanks.
 

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Used a strap wrench on mine but I did have to get it very clean and put a piece of double face tape to keep it from slipping.:|
 

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IF "worse-comes-to-worse" - poke a LONG screwdriver thru that filter then, w/ a hand on each end of the screwdriver for 'torque', it's pretty easy to remove [even IF it's a 'bit' messy] :wink2:.

On the new filter, be sure to oil the gasket, then ONLY tighten it as per instructions ON the new filter (for my V650s - turn till it contacts, then another FULL turn).

I ONLY had that problem ONCE, in 165,000 miles among three V650s, but I can't be specific as to WHEN it happened.

:rolleyes:
 

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IF "worse-comes-to-worse" - poke a LONG screwdriver thru that filter then, w/ a hand on each end of the screwdriver for 'torque', it's pretty easy to remove [even IF it's a 'bit' messy] :wink2:.

On the new filter, be sure to oil the gasket, then ONLY tighten it as per instructions ON the new filter (for my V650s - turn till it contacts, then another FULL turn).

I ONLY had that problem ONCE, in 165,000 miles among three V650s, but I can't be specific as to WHEN it happened.

:rolleyes:
Thats how i had to get the original filter off....

First Oil Change 600 miles by weljo2001, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #10
One more question...do you install a new gasket (or washer) for the drain plug with each oil change as well?
 

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One more question...do you install a new gasket (or washer) for the drain plug with each oil change as well?

Nope.....
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Success! ...sort of...

My old channel lock pliers were too small to get a grip so looking in my tool box I spied my C-clamp - so I tightened that C-clamp enough to partially crush the filter (good grip) and the filter easily unscrewed - and no mess. I then hand-tightened my new filter after lubing the gasket.

I added my new Castrol Motorcycle oil without looking at owners manual to remember exact amount - I knew it was 2 point something liters. On to the 3rd bottle, I filled to proper mark on the window, ran the engine (no leaks). I ended up putting in a little more than 2.75L.

However, I was supposed to put in only 2.2L. After checking oil level again, the window was completely full. The O.M. says is "wait several minutes until the oil settles". I didn't do that.

Then the O.M. says "remove excess oil with syringe or suitable device" - so naturally, from the kitchen I borrowed my wife's turkey baster to suck some oil out, but that didn't work - wouldn't pull any oil up (and therefore, out). I put the turkey baster back in the drawer ;-)

So the plan today is to drain the oil into a clean container and re-fill the proper amount (2.0l when filter is not removed), run the engine and then wait several minutes for oil to settle and then check oil level.

BTW, I was surprised at how dirty the oil looked (after 6,000kms), considering I ride in pretty much pristine conditions - cool, dry, no dust or sand. It had always looked 'golden' thru the window.

Thanks for listening.
 

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Oil Filter Practices

I have been changing oil filters for over 50 years in cars, trucks and motorcycles. I cringe when I hear others opine that they use a torque wrench on the filter (or the drain bolt).

I have NEVER had a problem removing a filter or drain bolt that I have previously installed. I usually reuse the sealing washer on the drain bolt (unless it has been crushed too many times). I used to install filters as tight as I could tighten them by hand (before old age and arthritis). Now I tighten the filter (with oil on the gasket) until the gasket contacts the sealing surface, then tighten an additional 1/2 to 1 turn with a filter removal tool.

I have OFTEN had problems removing a filter that someone other than myself put on. I recently did the first oil change (by me) on my 2014 Silverado 5.3. I had taken advantage of GM's 3 free oil changes for the last 3 changes. I had extreme difficulty removing the filter (drain bolt was also VERY tight), I first used a cheap fiberglass cup style tool with a 3/8 drive opening for a breaker bar. It would not turn the filter and slipped without turning the filter. I found an old metal strap type tool that was designed to fit different diameter filters. The strap is steel and about 1.5 inches wide. I couldn't get it up very high on the filter because of clearance issues with the block so it was near the bottom end (where the flat surfaces are for a cup style tool). After applying EXTREME force with a 3/8 drive breaker bar (I would estimate about 25-30 foot pounds of force) the filter began to turn (and CRUSH). It did come off without tearing the metal of the filter can but just barely! I can only assume that either the gasket wasn't properly oiled when it was put on (at the Chevy dealership) or it was over torqued. Maybe the "manual" tells the service departments to torque these filters to 25 or 30 foot pounds but if so that is STUPID! Possibly a lawyer tells service departments to torque these filters on for liability reasons, but any experienced mechanic will tell you it is completely unnecessary!

This is why I will never let anybody but ME do any routine maintenance on any of my vehicles.:)
 
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One more question...do you install a new gasket (or washer) for the drain plug with each oil change as well?
NOPE - I have two copper-washers that I use alternately. Then after getting the oil in, and checked, I use a propane torch to ANNEAL the 'old' washer, then put it w/ my oil-change stuff for NEXT time.

...After checking oil level again, the window was completely full. The O.M. says is "wait several minutes until the oil settles". I didn't do that...

...So the plan today is to drain the oil into a clean container and re-fill the proper amount (2.0l when filter is not removed), run the engine and then wait several minutes for oil to settle and then check oil level....
Been there, DONE that! The ONLY safe way to correct the over-fill.

I have been changing oil filters for over 50 years in cars, trucks and motorcycles....This is why I will NEVER let anybody but ME do any routine maintenance on any of my vehicles.:)
I EVEN bring my own torque wrench when I get new tires on the car, and tell them to call me from their lounge to torque them myself!

:clap:

:yeahsmile: - :yeahsmile:
 

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It was a real PITA I ended up using one of those adjustable type oil filter removers that gets tighter when you try to remove it. The problem was that the header blocked using a wrench on it. I ended up using channel locks around the edge and removed the filter that way. I changed over to a KN filter that has the bolt attached for easy removal. I also switched to synthetic oil Mobil One 10w/40 Racing oil. Next time I change the oil it will be super fast and easy
 

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It was a real PITA I ended up using one of those adjustable type oil filter removers that gets tighter when you try to remove it. The problem was that the header blocked using a wrench on it. I ended up using channel locks around the edge and removed the filter that way. I changed over to a KN filter that has the bolt attached for easy removal. I also switched to synthetic oil Mobil One 10w/40 Racing oil. Next time I change the oil it will be super fast and easy
Yeah, I had the same problem, and arrived at the same solution -- the big pair of channel locks :). Unfortunately all I had handy was an OEM Kawasaki filter, I'll try the KN filter next time thanks to that bolt thingy.
 
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I bought one of these in size 2.375 to 2.625 (60.3 to 66.7 mm) range. Lisle 57010 Import Oil Filter Swivel Wrench. Worked great.
 
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