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Premium Member
9,943 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
S2 This is a reference to keep track of Edited threads 2020 , eventually I will remove this . Very time consuming but I am trying to keep only pertinent info in these threads.

Phase loss test for Series regulator
To Test for Phase Loss on a Series regulator under Actual Load Conditions

A better way would be using a small AC clamp on current probe rated for 400 HZ @ 25 Amp AC, pretty sure no one on this forum has one.So I came up with this:

This test is to prove all 3 phases of a Series regulator are functioning, such as Polaris or Compu Fire. What you will need is some straight pins, needles or jewelers screwdrivers, to insert from the stator wire side of the connector. You are measuring VAC, you need to set idle around 1800 to 2000 RPM, have the headlight on, measure A to B, B to C, C to A , record the readings, they should all be around 16 to 18 Volts AC , battery voltage should be 14.2 VDC.

If you get one of the phases reading 22 to 24 VAC or more, that phase isn't conducting/ being fired, which means you have a single phase condition on the stator. The stator is rated at something like 24 amp output, phase current is rated at 14 amp maximum, if you have a phase loss, you will get a single phase condition, with a maximum 24 amp available, hence the burnt stator.
I have had a regulator exibit a missing gate pulse. This may sound complicated, the end result if one of the six SCR's don't fire is similar to a single phase condition.

This test involves running around 1650 to 2000 RPM using the idle adjustment screw. You are testing this underload, make sure only low beam headlight is on and be aware that the fan may cycle on. The measurements need to be done without the fan on.

We are going to use VAC on your meter, six measurements are needed, expect some fluctuation as the regulator is trying to maintain a maximum of 14.2 VDC.
Here are the readings needed;
Phase A to Battery Positive = VAC
Phase B to Battery Positive = "
Phase C to Battery Positive = "
Phase A to Battery Negative = "
Phase A to Battery Negative = "
Phase A to Battery Negative = "

So a brief explanation, say we are producing A phase positive and C phase negative, I included the drawing below , if the bottom right C phase SCR doesn't get a gate pulse, the VAC will be high around 26 to 30 VAC. The top left A phase positive will conduct but at a much lesser value so it might be 22 VAC. By doing all the positive SCR and then the Negative, I get a picture if we have a bad connection or a faulty regulator.
1650 RPM was picked because you should be able to output 13.9 to 14.2 VDC , the regulator should be on full fire to the SCR's. A common problem is a single bad crimp at the regulator from the stator. A much harder to prove is a gate pulse regulator problem. I have just discovered this in early 2020 .
It is best to revert back to a shunt regulator until you can replace it if it is a gate pulse problem. My recommendation is to go to the 4016868 for the MK-3 .

Top 3 are positive SCR's bottom 3 are negative SCR's

The three phase depicted as circles I will say Top is A phase bottom is C phase
Please note the gate pulse come from the control circuit, reverse polarity is protected , also the regulator will not work unless at least 8VDC is provided , note , the narrow line represents negative, the wider line, positive which is connected to ~ which is a fuse.

Be aware , the readings will vary depending on the meter, most meters use RMS on VAC, since this signal is pulsing AC , what my Fluke 189 reads may be different to your meter. The value should be around 16 to 20 VAC, anything 28 VAC or higher would indicate a SCR not firing / conducting. All six readings should be within 4 VAC of each other

Premium Member
9,943 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So first thing. Looking at the regulator pins, top left is white with Blue tracer Positive -Center on 07 Versys is Brown from key switch no longer used -right top is Black with Yellow tracer Negative
Bottom three are the 3 phase input wires.
So my testing is on a 2015 regulator that was used for less than 5 KM and has been in my storage. First I can draw out a single phase or three phase full rectifier bridge in under 30 seconds. Having said that I still draw out that drawing to follow the proper lead placement. When I say forward that is in conduction mode, I use electron flow for all my testing. Electron flow is negative to positive or cathode to anode. That little white strip represents the bar at the cathode end.

So my testing was with a Fluke 189 3 decimal place meter catagory IV . I found the battery symbol on so replaced with fresh batteries.

Here is my testing using diode test, I call the lower left pin A phase, the middle B phase and the right C phase. I can only comment on my meter, I have several others with diode test and expect to get identical readings. A common value of a diode is 0.56 ohms, two in series will be 1.12 ohms. Using a ohmmeter may read in the meg ohms, simply because it is using the current through and the voltage across to come up with a value, generally it is a waste of time using a ohmeter for testing electronics. Diode test was developed strictly for electronics. My tests will include on e ohmeter value forward and reverse but to me it is a waste of time. I will let you be the judge.

Forward from A phase to negative ( lead is negative on bottom left pin , positive lead on top right pin) 0.51 and 1.5 meg using ohms -- B phase to - 0.501 C phase to - 0.501

Forward from A phase to positive + ( negative lead on positive top left pin and positive lead on A phase bottom left pin) 0.506 and 1.7 meg on ohmmeter - B phase to + 0.506
C phase to + 0.507

Reverse A to negative -infinity and 500 megohms on ohms all others the same
Reverse A phase to positive - infinity or 500 megohms on ohms test the same.
If any of your readings are different from my tests particularly in reverse testing, your regulator is defective. One other point rarely does the shunt part of the regulator fail, it usually fails shorted or open. Open you will have headlight bulbs failing and ECU failing, shorted well you won't get very far with the bike running.

Line Rectangle Parallel Font Cylinder

View attachment 183529


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