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Discussion Starter #1
As I'm in the process of putting a set of Metzler Tourance tires onto my V (150/70x17 rear, and a 130/80x17 on the front) I knew I'd need to raise the front fender for clearance. Seeing as the 130/80 stands about 1.5" taller than the 120/70 stocker, I knew I'd need to raise it AT LEAST .75" (half the 1.5") to maintain the same tire-to-fender distance, or slightly increase it. :thumb:

MOST of the raised fenders I've seen on here look to have been raised about 2.8 inches, which to my eye is too much, plus it DECREASES fender to lower triple clamp clearance, which MIGHT not be a good thing, so I looked at ways to raise it the minimum amount consistent with a REASONABLE cost. Working with a metal fabricator here in the Phoenix area, this is what we came up with. Figure on a price of $30 (plus shipping, and hardware) for a pair, and please tell me whether any of you might be interested at that price so my friend can decide if he'd be willing to make and stock these for us. (I figure you need a LITTLE mechanical aptitude to install the adaptors and then raise the fender. BTW, the blue fender is one that weljo tried to "attach" to a BMW sedan last month, and will ultimately become modded and black....) :goodidea:

My measurements show about 5 5/16" between the RAISED fender and triple clamp, and about 1 5/8" between the STOCK tire and RAISED fender which would then become about 7/8" with the 130/80 tire. :yeahsmile:
 

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Looks Good.:thumb::thumb:
 

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I'm running those tires. Not sure what the measurement is but I just moved the bottom hole of the fender to the top hole of the fork along with a bracket similar to what you have. I'm sure it could be done but I've gone about 10k without having a fender/fork brace meeting.

I wanted some extra tire/fender clearance for mud since I do some logging road riding. Once you get that Tourance mounted with air it gets big fast.



 

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I'd be interested as long as they clear with enough room to allow for mud as Ken says.
 

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i'm also interested

hi fastoman. i'm interested too. are you aware that there is a company called "cycletech" in indiana that made or makes these fender risers for the v? i read about them in advmoto magazine. they used this product on their versys adventure build. i am going to use the same tires, but won't need them until this summmer.----marc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Now that my front fender is raised, today I installed the 130/80 Tourance front tire, then went for a long ride to "scuff" it in.

Impressions:
IMMEDIATE - holy cow! I knew the steering would get harder, but HOW HARD surprised me! It felt like it wouldn't even turn. :eek:
AFTER 25 miles - I scuff my tires by riding where there's very little traffic, then countersteering it back-and-forth (staying in my lane) for miles to get the 'slick' off. Then, when I would 'ease up' and let it turn rather than 'forcing' it back, it felt like it was "falling" into the turn. :eek:
AFTER 125 miles - tire's 'scuffed' OK, and I'm getting used to "Big Red" not turning when I think about it, but only when I force it. :cool:

Now to get onto some dirt.... :exactly: BTW, I like the way it looks with a smaller gap between the tire and fender. :clap:
 

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Why would you run a smaller rear?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Why would you run a smaller rear?
I'm NOT. Like most running the Metzler Tourance tires, I have a 150/70 on the rear, and a 130/80 (rear tire) on the front.
 

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Why would you run a smaller rear?
Metzeler Tourance as all of the more off-road capable 17" tires, are not avalable in 160/60... 150/70 is a bit narrower and a bit taller.

Your fender risers look great, Eddie. Welded aluminum. :thumb:

It's just a bit wider on upper fender bolt, and a bit wider still on lower bolt, stretching fender struts out a bit on a slight "A" angle. Are your fork tubes steel shields still there?? You could shave down the ~1mm thick bulges on the fender to fork aluminum mounts (part of fork base) if you want to rectify that a bit, then could always add a washer if going back to stock without the risers.

It looks great with that tire clearance, but I'd like to see a Fenda Extenda on there. I suppose one could have your machinist punch out some with custom specs for more or less rise as desired.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Metzeler Tourance as all of the more off-road capable 17" tires, are not avalable in 160/60... 150/70 is a bit narrower and a bit taller.

Your fender risers look great, Eddie. Welded aluminum. :thumb:

It's just a bit wider on upper fender bolt, and a bit wider still on lower bolt, stretching fender struts out a bit on a slight "A" angle. Are your fork tubes steel shields still there?? You could shave down the ~1mm thick bulges on the fender to fork aluminum mounts (part of fork base) if you want to rectify that a bit, then could always add a washer if going back to stock without the risers.

It looks great with that tire clearance, but I'd like to see a Fenda Extenda on there. I suppose one could have your machinist punch out some with custom specs for more or less rise as desired.
Yes - the steel guards are in there, and I DO 'stretch' the fender out a bit as I mount it. What I did NOT want to do was to raise it the 70mm (2.77") it takes to just go "up one hole", and half that - 35mm (1.375") looks WAY better even if it took more engineering, PLUS less chance of 'an encounter' between the fender and bottom triple clamp. I have weljo's fender from his BMW encounter, so I'll be doing something with that, which MIGHT include cutting the front half off and bonding it to the rear (scuffing it and spraying it black, MAYBE with a high fender...). Time'll tell.... :exactly:
 

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Id be interested in a pair. I dont want to install a larger tire, I just want the fender raised a little cause it looks cool ! How can I purchse them ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Id be interested in a pair. I dont want to install a larger tire, I just want the fender raised a little cause it looks cool ! How can I purchse them ?
Here's a picture with the fender raised 35mm and a stock 120/70 front tire - check to see if you like that look. Second pic is with a 130/80 tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Specs. to make your own fender-raiser!

It seems there's interest, but NOT enough for my friend to go into production, so here's instructions and pics to make your own:

First, decide how HIGH you want or need to raise the fender. In my case I went with 35mm (1.375"), HALF the distance between the 2 fender mounting holes. The FULL 70mm distance would have been easier to do (ONLY 3 holes required!), but put more distance than I wanted between fender and tire.

Then I got a couple of pieces of 1/8" Aluminum, 1" wide x 5.5" long, and 2 more 1" x 1". BECAUSE my plan called for the 4 holes to be 35mm one-from-the-next, I then marked the centers and drilled four 1/4" holes (close enough to 6mm for me), and another in the center of the 1 x 1 pieces.

Then I attached a bolt and nut thru the small pieces and the SECOND hole from the end in the long pieces and got them welded together. IF you've got this far you should know that a flat piece mounted to the holes on the bottom of the fork will be ever-so-slightly raised away from the fork once it's attached to them. I figure about .045" or so. That is where the lower attachment of the fender will be, and as there's no threaded area to turn a bolt into (and I don't think drilling another would be a good idea for the fork), I had to figure a way to have the threaded part facing OUT. See picture 1 for the parts AND fasteners I used. Pic #2 shows where they fasten.

Next I put a 'counter-sink' in my drill and countersunk from the side AWAY from the welded-on-part till the socket flat-head SS 6mm screw's head showed about .045" proud. To keep that from turning so I could attach the fender, I then counter-drilled from the OTHER (outside) side sufficient to allow a 6mm jam nut to fit in, and when tightened, be only .055" proud. That will hold the bolt from turning when tightening the nut to hold the fender, plus I used blue Loctite. I used a stainless-steel FH 6mmx1.0 x 25mm for that fastener. Pics #3 and 4 show the .045 OR LESS for the head of the FH bolt while #5 and 6 show the .055" OR LESS on the jam-nut side. #7 and 8 are of hole spacing, 9 is the overall length, and # 10 is a diagram of the FH bolt and jam-nut clearances required.

Now you can attach the long piece to your lower fork with a stock fastener on the lowest hole, and a 6mm x 15mm bolt thru the 3rd hole up (Loctite too!). Once those are attached take your fender and GENTLY spread the lower parts till you can lower it and get the 2 SS FH screws thru the fender holes and start the 2 lock-nuts on (I used the all-metal lockers rather than nylock). The fasteners I use in the higher fender holes are 6 x 45mm 'flange-head' capscrews and locknuts, tightened JUST till threads come thru the nuts and the bolt will NOT easily turn. BTW, ALL are 6mm x 1.0pitch threads.

Hope this is clear for those who want to do the same, and the last two pics show the fender mounted.
 

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Buddy of mine made these for me.
Yes they are steel. will need to paint or powder-coat and cut the length of the bolts down a bit.
Nice thing is there is no stack up of metal strap.
I needed these because I put a 120/90-17 Heidenau K60 Scout on the front and a 150/70B17 H., K60 on the rear. The stock fender height would of never cleared. Going to make a fender extender from something in the barn.
 

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I just used some aluminum bar stock, countersunk screws to mount it and tapped to holes for the stock fender hardware



one day i'll take them off, round the corners and paint them black

clearance with the 130 shinko 705's

 
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