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Discussion Starter #1
No not what kind or anything like that.

But did you notice your trans shifting smoother after you changed over? I'm thinking of going to syn for no other reason than smoother shifting if it helps.

Time
 

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No increase in smoothness. I think this has to do with using JASCO certified oil - motorcycle certified oil. It has additives for the transmission like teflon which car oil does not. Also additives used in oils marked "energy saving" can contain additives that cause slipping of the wet clutch.
 

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My experience has been that it helps quite a bit. Ever since 2001 I've been putting int Full Synth after a certain number of dino oil miles.

With the Versys specifically it doesn't seem as big of a help as some other bikes I've gone to Synth with. There's still a clunk into first, like before, but it does seem to be somewhat better. My bet is that my V has some sticky clutch plates, but to give them a "soak in oil", I'd have to take my Givi crash bar off, not too hot on doing that right now.

enjoy.
 

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The biggest difference I ever noticed in shifting on my previous Ninja 650 was changing to Shell Rotella Synthetic. I haven't tried it in the Versys yet.
 

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The biggest difference I ever noticed in shifting on my previous Ninja 650 was changing to Shell Rotella Synthetic. I haven't tried it in the Versys yet.
I can't decide between this Shell Rotella Synthetic (T6, Right?) and the new castrol 4T synthetic BIKE Oil..:feedback:
 

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No not what kind or anything like that.

But did you notice your trans shifting smoother after you changed over? I'm thinking of going to syn for no other reason than smoother shifting if it helps.

Time
Yup!
And I use Mobil1 CAR oil, 15w-50. I've also used M1 10w-30 (car oil, again!) in a 104HP Suzuki Bandit 1200S (for several years) with GREAT results!
:clap:
 

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From the horses mouth

Question:
Can Mobil 1 15W-50 be Used in a Kawasaki Motorcycle?
Why can't I run Mobil 1 15W-50 in my Kawasaki 1600 Classic cruiser?
-- David Nelson, Shelburne, VT
Answer:
You can run Mobil 1 15W-50, but if you have a motorcycle with a common sump then you have to worry about transmission clutch performance. Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are specially designed to provide good engine protection while also optimizing friction performance so that clutch slippage is controlled.


MOBILE LINK

I use synthetic in every thing I own. (not Mobile products though:yeahsmile:) The three biggest things that I have noticed are Quieter trannys mostly on HD Ultra Classic (no longer owned :( ). Cooler engine temps on several air cooled scoots. And labor and $ savings using extended drain intervals. These are my personal opinions. And yes I sell Amsoil Products.
 

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The biggest difference I ever noticed in shifting on my previous Ninja 650 was changing to Shell Rotella Synthetic. I haven't tried it in the Versys yet.
I dont have the synthetic in as they were out of the gallon jugs when I bought it a while ago, but the non-synthetic Rotella smoothed out my V nicely. Next time I get a jug it will most likely be synthetic if availble.
 

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Shell Rotella T6. It meets more requirements than a presidential babysitter (including JASO DH-2.) First oil change in mine so difficult to say, but seems smoother. With time for sure.
 

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I have used M1 since I got it. I mean just regular car oil. I don't know it it runs smoother compared to dino oil, but I think it last longer. Dealer always puts in cheap Castrol, after I put in M1 it ran much better.
 

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"MC oil has a higher shear point than car oil. Also it caters for the motorcycle's clutch needs. Synthetic oil is the best you can give your bike" that's the reply I got from Motul, France.

I put synthetic because the V holds max 1.9 L with an oil filter change. That's not much when having a high demand for performance.
Changing oil every 5000 km.
 

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Syn oils help every type of machine. As for the so called clunky transmission, none of you have ridden a harley then. Those bikes have granny's from the 1700's I think. From n to first is a huge clunk and shutter that would make you think you just **** the tranny on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Syn oils help every type of machine. As for the so called clunky transmission, none of you have ridden a harley then. Those bikes have granny's from the 1700's I think. From n to first is a huge clunk and shutter that would make you think you just **** the tranny on the ground.
My Buell was no where near as "Clunky" as my Versys is. BUT you had the SHIFT it...there was no shifting it with a half hearted toe. BUT no one I know ever broke a Buell XB trans. The shifter yes the trans no. Made with gears left over from tanks!

My KLR is very smooth and I run Rotilla 15-40 dino drippings in it, hey it's a KLR why put syn in it when you'll drain it in 2,000 miles? I'v always run Rotilla in it and never had a problem. 25,000 miles on a 09 and going strong.

I think one reason there's a big clunk on the "V" is the idle is set at 1250-1300 rpm. So even the squeeze the clutch 2-3 times won't release the plates all the way. I may try idling it down a bit and see if it helps, it did on the KLR.
 

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Well the Harley in my family shifts really clunky. I don't have a problem with my v, ran amsoil in my Klr and my v is still smoother than the Klr too.
 

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I've used pretty good Semi Syn oils and the shifting are pretty good, comparable to the Syn I am using now. In my experience, Syn would give me longer oil drain intervals and more consistent viscosity performance when in mixed mode riding in urban city and suburban areas (start stop traffics).
 
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