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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The clean air system admits air through the exhaust port outlets into exhaust system, and has no effect on the engine... I have sealed off the air suction valve on the valve cover with 1/4" aluminum plate, and the air source on the airbox with RTV silicone. I also removed the air switching valve unit by connecting its two wires together to prevent triggering the 'FI' warning light.
This is common practice when installing an aftermarket exhaust silencer. I have a Muzzy header with custom Magnaflow 2" in/out, 2.5" core silencer and Yoshimura TEC-SD2 1-7/16" ID 'low volume insert'. I also smooth matched the exhaust port outlets, among other things.
No such concerns about leaning out the overly rich stock Versys/Ninja 650R. The slightly lean ~2800 rpm range is there stock or with a slip-on, and progressively too rich, especially beyond 5000 rpm. Fuel injected engines are normally completely leaned out on maximum deceleration (closed throttle). That and/or admitting air into exhaust reduces emissions, and also submits less strain on the catalytic converter in the stock Versys muffler...




I pulled this Invader quote out from another post which was already rather highjacked as it was and didn't want to add unnecessarily to it.
The question I have regarding this mod is, rather than fashion a plate,
jumper a wire, and plug the air box port, shouldn't you be able to simply plug the airbox port to the valve and just leave it all in place as
factory installed and get the same result? That result being no air routed from the airbox thru the valve.

Jody
 

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Yes. Preventing any air flow through the PAIR valve, resulting in no air admitted through the reed valves into exhaust ports, will yield the same result.
 

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I'd like to block the airport too - but I have absolutely no idea where it is - can anyone point to it in a picture please ? Would I have to remove the tank ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You can take the V all apart if you want to remove it, But you don't have to do all that just to block it to get rid of the decel pop with an aftermarket pipe. You can access the valve that sits right on top of the cylinder head cover via the left side of the bike. You simply reach up in there and move the clamp by hand, then remove the hose by hand. You can then insert a male flare hose fitting plug (#4 AN works great and is readily available) into the port of the valve and slip the hose back on. That's all there is to it.

Here is a link to the type of plug i'm talking about. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Flare-Plugs,968.html
 

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jcstratt, I tried a #4 AN plug but it doesn't seem to fit into the port. I didn't have a lot of time and didn't want to damage anything, for now. Do you think it needs a bit more persuasion?

Len
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No, don't force it. You can grind down the part that doesn't fit (on the fitting of course). Mine dropped right in.
 

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there is no power gains from this mod. why do you gguys always wanna do this?
Some of us want to ride a bike with less horrific popping on decel. I like the Two Bros, but can't deal with gunfire as I go down the block... :p

Also, if you are modding the Versys to be fast, you are wasting your time and money.
 

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there is no power gains from this mod. why do you guys always wanna do this?
I haven't done it on my V yet, but when I removed the PAIR from my Bandit, I did it to make access easier when doing the valves.
 

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Rigged up my own Viton O-ring sealed plug for the PAIR valve yesterday. A simple rubber stopper (as one would use to plug a test tube, size 000) would be easier. I couldn't find one quickly, but I did have a brass 1/4" Swagelok tube cap and a small Viton O-ring that fit around it. Had to file off the threads to get it to slip into the nipple. But Kawasaki gave us easy access to it (as though they anticipated we'd want to block it) so with the right parts this is a 5 minute job.

Looking forward to no more distracting pops when I blip downshifts. I did notice the idle was low the first time I started it up.. which doesn't surprise me. I've blocked off a vacuum inlet in the airbox.. so more oxygen is going through the intake, altering the air/fuel mixture.. this is a closed loop, fuel-injected motor, though. So I trust that in time it will trim in more fuel and balance out the mixture.

Is there another crankcase breather to the airbox? i.e. part of the PCV system?
 

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here in the UK, I've yet to find a single person (nevermind Kawasaki dealer or even bike repair shop) that has ever heard of a pair valve ! My er6 with a yoshimura popped a lot initially, but it has diminished with miles on the clock. My local Kawi dealer said that even the stock pipe pops. Couple that with the fact that finding any silicone caps is impossible and I'm not sure I can be bothered to block the pair valve. In fact it seems to be running fine without the lambda sensor either, so the sensor eliminator I got must be doing its job (despite several forum members on another site telling me it would ruin my engine). 2500 miles later and it hasnt blown up yet.
 

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I'm not sure if the term Pulsed-Air-Induction-Reed valve is universal. In the service manual its called a Clean Air System.

But yeah, if yours ain't broke, don't fix it.
 

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If you have installed an aftermarket exhaust, the PAIR air is no longer needed. An easy way to block it is to just pull the hose off the airbox nipple and fill the end of the nipple with RTV silicone caulk, then put the hose back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The only thing you gain from blocking the pair valve is getting rid of the decel pop that becomes prevalent with installing an aftermarket slip-on. You definitely don't need to disassemble a bunch of stuff or make any plates or really remove anything to do this. You can reach up in there and remove the rubber line and plug it either with RTV or install a plug of some sort without removing anything from the bike.

This is what I used on mine. It's made of aluminum. I pulled the rubber hose off, placed this plug into the hose barb, and reinstalled the hose. Not a decel pop since, no FI light, no shorting of wires or any of that.




EDIT: This is a dust cap for AN #4 fitting. It's probably available from a lot of different sources, but it was just something I had laying around.
 

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Beside plugging the ports, cutting and joining both PAIR valve wires together allows you to remove it entirely, along with the hoses... It's sitting on my airbox in second pic up there.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's true invader. It's one of those things you can get rid of if you are after all the weight savings you can get away with as well as for those folks that "like to tinker."

I was just saying you don't have to go through all of that if your only goal is to disable it to get rid of the decel pop.
 

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i didnt remove anything either. i had a couple of acorn nuts of different sizes and one fit the inside of the hose. put it in the end of the hose, popped it back on the valve barb and slid the clamp down into place. simple, easy, and free!!!! works great.
 
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