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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
They look so awesome I used a bar profile that lowered the bars back down to stock height with the rox risers in place so now I have the isolation from vibration on the rox risers and 1 1/8 handlebars with the stock clutch cable. The bars were $80 shipped I had to drill small anti rotation holes for the controls.
 

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Great fit. More information please.
It seems that you used lower bars to compensate for the extra bracketry.
I'd like bars that are an inch or two wider with a similar bend. An inch each side maybe for more leverage in the dirt. Half or an inch higher would not be a problem. I'd prefer to stick to 7/8ths, but might go 1 1/8th.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was having horrible audible vibration issues. My bike sounded like someone threw a handful of pennies into a dryer and turned it to 10,000rpm spin cycle. The handlebars shook like mad and everything on them rattled painfully.

So I bought the rox risers which rubber isolate the handle bars from the rest of the bike. They raise the bars 45mm or so.

This caused the cables to be too short. So I pondered my options.

My options were lose the risers and the dampening capability (this is a hard no)... So my actual options were buy a longer aftermarket clutch cable or upgrade to awesome looking protaper bars with a larger cross section thicker walls and impeccably good looks.

For me the answer was obvious so here we are I bought the sx race profile evo's as they are the proper bar profile that I needed/wanted.

The sx race profile is about the same width as stock but the profile is such that from a top down view the bars are straighter than stock more perpendicular to the bike the stock bars bend back like an airplanes wings, these do that much less which makes my stance feel a little more involved and in control. Same overall width but my arms and the bars now form a triangle instead of a diamond.

I had to drill two small holes which you aren't supposed to do but I did anyway, for the locating/anti rotation pegs that lock in the l/r side handlebar switches.

The heated grips were because my hands get cold in the winter. They are awesome and I will not go without them again.

Is that adequate or were you looking for something else?
 

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That's great. The bend, as you describe, has less pullback more like a M/X bar and that keeps your elbows out which gives you more leverage at the bars. Better control in the rough stuff.

I second drilling small holes in the bars to accommodate the switchblock location pegs. Otherwise you need to file those pegs off and the switchblocks are more likely to move on the bars.

I was surprised to hear you talk about handlebar vibrations from your X300. Something must be wrong as I have no vibrations - audible or otherwise. My bars are stock OEM at the moment.
Have you fitted crash bars? They can often be the cause of bad handlebar vibrations. Place your left hand on the left crashbar while riding to see if any vibration in the handlebar is coming from the crashbar.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
My bike was silent until winter once it got cold I think the tolerances opened up a little and it became a rattle trap when the rattles started I took every single thing I did to the bike off which was down even to the dc power port and ram clamp on cell phone holder the noises were 100 percent coming from the bars and controls nowhere else, even took it into the dealer and they agreed, however since nothing was actually broken nothing was covered by warranty. I do not have crash bars.

I drilled holes, you have to or the switches won't bolt on, it's not an option cutting off the pegs there is nothing left to stop them from rotating the throttle would spin in your hand you'd have to epoxy them on or something if you didn't drill holes.

These bars and risers 100 percent eliminated the noise and vibration imo this is the very first thing every VX owner should do it made it a new bike.
 

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When you installed the 1 1/8" bars - did you modify the mirror mounts and controls, or buy new ones to account for that extra 1/4" in the bars?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When you installed the 1 1/8" bars - did you modify the mirror mounts and controls, or buy new ones to account for that extra 1/4" in the bars?
1 1/8th bars are only 1 1/8th at the tree they taper back down to 7/8 at the controls so everything swaps right over. With the exception of having to drill those two small holes I mentioned into the bars.
 

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Thanks "Holeshot". I didn't know that, and appreciate you taking the time to elaborate.

(y)(y)
 
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