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I was carefully trying to remove the upper fairing cover when I knew I had a problem, the cover was stuck to the rubber grommet on the tank. It was a bit cold out and the plastic pin on inside of the cover that fits into the rubber grommet on the tank snapped off ( son of a %#@&*%$#). So now I have to try and glue or fuse the plastic pin back to the inside of the cover. I think most people who have owned motorcycle have come across this problem before, and unfortunately because of the vibration and stress on the pin, the repair is not usually successful for long.

In order to have a good chance at a permanent repair, I have to know what the type of plastic the fairing is made of so I can get the proper type of glue. Does anybody know for sure what type of plastic material the fairing is made of (Polypropylene, Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC), Polystyrene , Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS))? Also has anybody have had success at this kind of repair?

Maurice
 

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That 2 part epoxy stuff from Home Depot...Looks like a double barreled syringe...Cripes, half my bike is held together with it :thumb:
I use this and if the repair is not visible (inside the panel) I embed fiberglass cloth in the plastic for greater strength.
 

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I dropped my bike (!) and broke off the left turn signal -- what would work best for that?
 

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I dropped my bike (!) and broke off the left turn signal -- what would work best for that?
little more info. where did the signal break. stem cover etc etc. pics also would help. I bump my right front signal and broke the tab that
holds the signal (two pieces together).I Just wrapped a piece of electrical tape around the signal stem and slid the other piece over it. Has not moved and you cant tell it broke.
 

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As described above

I dropped my bike (!) and broke off the left turn signal -- what would work best for that?
Post a picture of the plastic and the signal. I have done repairs before on my 07, which was ABS and some pieces were breaking down, nothing to do with crashing, and stress cracks. Take some extra fine sand paper or a red scotch brite pad, all the area where you plan on applying needs to have the glaze removed, use fiberglass mat available at any place supplying auto paint products / bondo , use scissors to cut the mat, work the plastics into the mat, you have a limited amount of time to do this, two thin coats are stronger than one thick one. When applying the second coat, use mat again. Depending on what broke this may or may not be successful.
 

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My turn signal made maybe a 3" hole in the fairing where it mounts when I dropped it at a stop grrrr... I used Loctite brand superglue to join it all back together, used a few narrow strips of t-shirt material on the inside also covered in the superglue to reinforce the break.. Seems stronger than even now.
 

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on my rv90 i have a peace of bic pen glued inplace to replace a broken off tab
 

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Nothing works as well for fairing repair as Plastex. You can rebuild a badly smashed up fairing to look like new with this stuff. The other nice thing is it sands at the same rate as the plastic fairing so it makes it easy to smooth. Epoxy on the other hand will be much harder than the repaired fairing making it hard to get a smooth finish. The video is somewhat cheesy but the stuff really works as advertised. If you break tabs you can reform them with the moldable molds that come with the kit. I bought the large kit several years ago and still have lots of material left. Having done fairing repair a few times here's what I do:

  • Plastic structural repair with plastex
  • Automotive glazing putty application to fill minor scratches and surface imperfections followed by 800 grit wet sand until smooth to the touch
  • Apply automotive bumper primer (works better on flexible plastic than regular primer although you can use regular automotive primer if you have it) followed by 800 grit wet sand
  • Apply color coat and let cure at least 48 hours, sand with ~1200 grit very lightly if any rough spots - will adhere to primer but not plastic fairing
  • Several coats of clear coat, letting flash dry (~10 min) between coats
  • Finish with very fine rubbing compound to remove ripple - plastic headlight lens rubbing compound/restorer is too coarse, toothpaste might work although I have not tried it.
  • Repeat steps if required
Notes: any automotive paint shop can supply any color matched color (exact match), if you look up the color code, in a spray can. The clear coat you buy in an aerosol can from an automotive paint shop will cost more than the clear coat you buy cheap from say Canadian Tire or similar store, but be much higher quality and be easier to apply. Not need for expensive epoxy clear coat on a bike. Always sand with a rubber sanding block and never your palm. You can get a "factory" finish this way but a custom color spray can will cost ~$40 or more. It also will not look right until you apply the clear coat on top.

PLASTEX, PLASTIC REPAIR KITS, FIX CRACKS, REPAIR PLASTIC

 
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