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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, let's start again, now with photo.

The 2 bolts in the photo are loose, there is no nut or something with threads to actually thread into.

bolts have the threads ok.

what is there?? did I lose the nuts?
the bolts stay in place because the fairing keeps them there.

:thanx:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
It's strange that nobody knows what's behind those screws...
Anyway, I bought some SS screws, washers and self locking nuts and I started to repair the stuff...

first, I want to punch the designer of the rear frame in the face.:mad::mad:
he put 2 nuts welded on the frame, but it's so fragile... especially that people use those locations to mount the trunk....
if you use these bolts to mount a trunk, take a closer look if the nuts are still there.... the bolts were trapped under the seat, but not holding on anything.

as you see from the photo, it's very difficult to put a nut under the frame because of the way everything is designed, to have access to put the nuts, I had to remove the brake light, and almost everything around.... but to put everything back is a :eek::eek: as you need to tighten the bolts that hold the passenger rails at the end....:mad::mad:

I managed to install the bolts with washers and self locking nuts, but it took me 2 hours !!?!? :mad::mad:

a nut was still there.... look at the perfect weld they did....:mad:
 

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Not fun at all from the sound of it. I was confident there were captive (welded) nuts under the cross member but my Versys is 2400 miles away so I couldn't confirm it. Your efforts proved your suspicions.

I had no problem when mounting Givi hard case racks. My welds must have been done on a good day. Sorry about your bad welds and having such a hassle.

Be glad it isn't a Honda. I installed mounting racks for factory hard cases on my wife's new CTX700. The first instruction is "Disassemble everything from the engine rearward - if you can find all the push pins and hidden tabs round eyes!"
 

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It's strange that nobody knows what's behind those screws...
Anyway, I bought some SS screws, washers and self locking nuts and I started to repair the stuff...

first, I want to punch the designer of the rear frame in the face.:mad::mad:
he put 2 nuts welded on the frame, but it's so fragile... especially that people use those locations to mount the trunk....
if you use these bolts to mount a trunk, take a closer look if the nuts are still there.... the bolts were trapped under the seat, but not holding on anything.

as you see from the photo, it's very difficult to put a nut under the frame because of the way everything is designed, to have access to put the nuts, I had to remove the brake light, and almost everything around.... but to put everything back is a :eek::eek: as you need to tighten the bolts that hold the passenger rails at the end....:mad::mad:

I managed to install the bolts with washers and self locking nuts, but it took me 2 hours !!?!? :mad::mad:

a nut was still there.... look at the perfect weld they did....:mad:
Since I'm also a candian AND have a 2009, I will take a look at those bolt on mine

But that a massive amount of corrosion !

Does your bike sleeps outside in the winter, maybe under a tarp ?
Are you from a city near the ocean ??

LOP
 

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But that a massive amount of corrosion !

Does your bike sleeps outside in the winter, maybe under a tarp ?
Are you from a city near the ocean ??

LOP
I don't believe corrosion was the problem, his welds simply broke under the stress of the trunk. Which does seem odd. If it were a common occurrence trunks wouldn't be so popular with members on here.

Let us know how the screw and washer fix holds up.
:goodluck:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
it was not corrosion, just a bad weld... maybe it was ok for passenger rail, but not for a trunk.... which seems odd because a lot of people put a trunk on their Versys (ver sys???)
I have no other rust on the bike, it sits inside in a heated garage all winter and I keep it in a garage all year round.
there is a lot of humidity but no ocean around ;)
 

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With only 37 years in metal fab I would have to say material failure due to crappy welding
If it was the weld that failed there would still be a clean hole for the bolt
or I could be wrong
 

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I have had mine off and on several times and I have a top box as well and had no problems. To me it looks like the metal has been strained by excess weight or being over tightened.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
over tightened is impossible, is not the nut thread that failed, and it would have been impossible for the nut to cross the bar.
I think it might be the rubber washers that are supposed to reduce the vibrations.
If these rubber washers compress, then the load will push the nut away from the bar (downwards)
It's really a bad design, as they could have made the bolt in shear and it would have been impossible to break it....
 
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