I had a similar situation before - It was 35C and in traffic. I think replacing the radiator cap did the job. There is a rubber washer in the cap that overtime degrades and hardens so it probably doesn't seal well. Low coolant level could be at fault too

 

Check the overflow level in the reservoir. Does the fan cycle if you let it idle for a while?

 

Check/replace coolant radiator cap and replace coolant

If the fan's good maybe the fluid is mixed improperly with water or the cap is degraded, start problem solving with the basics.

 

Check/replace coolant radiator cap and replace coolant . keep informed.

 

Yes any restriction of airflow to the front of the rad will affect the rad's ability to cool. Other suggestions are valid and you might have to check the thermostat if the low fluid or rad cap don't fix the problem.

Its perfectly normal for the fan to cycle on and off, particularly in city traffic, but the over heating light shouldn't come on. Also there might be an issue with the sensor. As usual do the simple stuff first.

 

A couple things-that is a MK-2 Versys One thing not mentioned, there have been a few that had the rubber hose break down , internally, it is possible to have some bits blocking the T stat. The Rad cap as was stated before-lack of pressure allows the coolant to boil, this has large amounts of air in it, air doesn't cool well. One thing, the high temperature light is not normal. Secondly, there is a fan issue below 3KM per hour -stop and go it doesn't run.

Sensor /Speed / Temp /Sensor/ Cluster Testing / Versys...

This example relates to a MK-1, but applies to all Versys 650 . A couple things important to understand. First Kawasaki suggested early in the 2007 that if extended idling in hot weather to switch off the motor Be aware the fan draws roughly 70 watts,or 22% of maximum output, add your base load...

www.kawasakiversys.com

 

Sounds like low coolant level... many causes of that.

Anyway first check your coolant level in the radiator
as well as the expansion tank.

The coolant in the radiator should be full to the brim.

 

Low coolant was the problem right bellow the low line, I friggin check the day after. Sorry for the late update a bit busy with getting my life together. Hopefully i get to take another ride to check if that fixed the problem. The bike has just been sitting in the garage since my ride last month. Thanks for your input guys! Replaced the radiator cap a week ago cause stocks ran out at my local dealership. Ride safe out there!

 

Now even idling til the fan kicks in it does not light up the temp light. Friggin coolant levels

 

Keep an eye on it Han.

If the level was low in the expansion tank but there was still
coolant in it, enough to keep the port in the bottom of
the tank covered your engine should not have overheated...

Also mate you should take the cap off the radiator (not when its hot)
and check that is full to the brim.

From what you say, the cause of the problem has not been addressed.

Could you post a photo of your radiator protector?

 

I agree with the above post. Something is still not right. If the rad itself is full to the radiator cap, and then even if the overflow was empty it wouldn't cause your heating issue. The overflow is just there to keep the coolant system a sealed unit and the expansion tank just holds the excess antifreeze that won't fit in the radiator. On most overflow/expansion tanks the lower line indicates the cold full level of the system and the upper line indicates the full hot level. When you do a service on the cooling system ( change the antifreeze ) it is pretty normal to fill the rad to the cap, and then fill the expansion tank to the top line. After a couple of heat/cool cycles, when any air is gone from the system, it would likely drop to the lower line when cold.
If my memory is right, for some reason the manual says to fill to the top line. Not sure why as on any other sealed cooling system the upper line is always the hot line. On my 08 650 it pretty well stays at or around the top line, no matter cold or hot.

 

Yep!

When at running temp the coolant expands and pushes past the spring loaded seal (at the base of the radiator filler neck), then, (because the radiator is positively sealed at the top of the radiator neck) the coolant escapes through the port between those two seals, down the rubber hose and enters the expansion tank through the port in the bottom of that tank.

There's a one way valve in the radiator cap at the spring loaded seal which allows the coolant in the expansion tank to be "sucked" back into the radiator when the coolant contracts as it cools... after the engine is switched off.

This arrangement ensures that the working part of the cooling system is
1. Always totally full of coolant.
2. Automatically bleeds the system of small amounts of air/gasses.