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as far as I could tell theres not a post on this, I searched and I looked... so yeah I've got 4000 miles on my V and I figure its time for synthetic. another V site discussed rotella syn. but I couldn't find the same so I figured on royal purple 15w40. as far as I can tell oil is oil right? so whats everybody else doing?
 

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Stick to 10W40 JASO MA certified motorcycle oil, as recommended. (Royal Purple Max-Cycle 10W40 motorcycle specific JASO MA certified)
I'm switching to Amsoil Formula 4-Stroke PowerSports synthetic 0W40 at 2000+ Kms... Its viscosity at operating temperature is actually a bit higher than Amsoil's 10W-40 Advanced Synthetic motorcycle oil.
 

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Amsoil 20-50 MC oil. Keeps the whole fleet on the same weight oil. :)
 

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Why not use 10W40 as recommended? It doesn't run that hot... 20W50 will only bog you down and reduce fuel efficiency. Oil pressure and resistance to flow may also be too high with the engine's tolerances.
 

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Why not use 10W40 as recommended? It doesn't run that hot... 20W50 will only bog you down and reduce fuel efficiency. Oil pressure and resistance to flow may also be too high with the engine's tolerances.
x2. Running 50W oil in an engine that calls for 40W is not really a good idea.
 

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I'm running Kawi synthetic 10w40 and have been since 303 miles on the odo (i'm just shy of 800 miles now). In 20 or so years, I've never had any trouble with any of my bikes going with full synth in the same weight from early-in and I do think "oil is oil" to some extent. I would agree with 08 Versys and invader that you can stick with 10w40 unless you have some specific reason to change like very hot temps.

I think changing oil frequently has a much bigger impact on the life of the motor in the long run.

Cheers!
 

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There's a chart in the manual, shows 50wt is A-OK, down to 32 degrees F (for 20w-50, lower for 10w, 15w etc) or so. FWIW I just changed the stock oil to Mobil 1 15w-50 and didn't notice any difference, mileage is the same as well. It's what I run in my dirt bike so it was handy.
 

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You're right about that chart... 20W50 is acceptable if riding only above 32 F. 10W40 is still the recommended viscosity, and is good for most conditions up to 104 F. I could feel the loss in power when I tried 20W50 once in a previous Kawasaki 750.
 

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I think the more expensive, synthetic oils tend to make the shifting nicer than the regular dino-juice. For the most part, any JASO MA oil should be fine. Having said that, it only takes 2 quarts for an oil change, so I'll probably splurge a little and go with something good from either Motul or Redline.
 

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I switched to the 3/4" taller oil filter, and drained it over 9 days until the weather improved, and got as much of the original oil out as possible by leaning it the the right and left for a while... It took a whopping 2.5 liters to have it at the "Full" mark. Label states: "1.9 liter with filter, 2.4 liter completely dry."
 

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Looks like you took the 'extreme drainage' route! I just drain, change the filter & add 2qts. Done! This bike is very easy to do an oil change...

:thumb::thumb:
 

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I have just switched to Royal Purple 20-50 at 4500 miles. I would have prefered to used 10-40, but this seems to be a difficult weight to find in a full synthetic at the shops for some reason. When I last tried the switch to this viscosity, it was on my YZF, and it felt like the shifting was a bit sluggish, and seemed less eager to rev, so I went back to semi-synth 10-40. I did not notice this with my V, and I was paying close attention. Also just completed a 500 mile trip with the new oil with largely very aggressive riding, mileage is as good and better than before, low 50's to 60 mpg. The manual says "Although 10-40 is the recommended oil for "MOST" conditions..." Just like cars, I would think it wise to alter you viscosity with the temp. In the winter I run lighter oil in my car, less viscosity allows it to get to moving bits faster in the cold. Heavier in the summer, for less heat induced viscosity loss. Will do the same with my bike. It's not going to get anywhere near 32 degrees around here for a while. Higher viscosity should offer a bit less thermal thinning, right, better protection, right? Although since full synthetic is far more resistant to thermal change than mineral oil, perhaps it just doesn't matter at all. In the end, I've found after years of intense discussion with service techs, and others, that you will get a "this is the way you should do it for sure" opinion from everyone you ask about oil advice. Everyone's sure "that's bull**** and this is the reality..." My best advice, listen to everyone and do some research of your own, and make an informed choice. :thumb:
Fukken cheers,
Erik!!!
 

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Shell Rotella is great. 5-40 full sync and $17.95 a gallon at Wallmart. They also have fram oil filters for the versys for 6 and change.... I've used the Rotella for years in three other bikes with never a problem. Don't waste your money on 8$ qt "motorcycle" oil. It's a crock!
 

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Shell Rotella is great. 5-40 full sync and $17.95 a gallon at Wallmart...
I will be running this exact oil in my Versys when I swap out to synthetic. Wal-Mart also has the SuperTech ST7317 oil filter (made by Champion) which is about 3/4" longer than the stock filter and fits great.
.
.
 

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According to Richard Moore, Staff Engineer at Shell Global Solutions (US) Inc., Westhollow Technology Center, Houston, TX (800-231-6950):

"We recently ran the JASO MA friction test on Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40, Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (CI-4) and our soon to be introduced (within the next 2 months) Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4. All three oils passed the wet clutch friction test. Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (CI-4) has more than 1.2% ash (JASO MA spec limit) so it can not be classified as JASO MA. However, Rotella T with Triple Protection 15W-40 and our soon to be introduced Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 CJ-4 do meet JASO MA."
 

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I run Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 in everything,The pickup,quads,dirtbike,lawnmower,Heck I even pour it in my coffee:p
If it needs oil at my house it gets the blue bottle:thumb:
 

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I like Motul oils in bikes, especially the way shared sump motorcycle transmissions respond. I just switched to Motul synthetic blend 5100 10W/40 and will go full synthetic in a few thousand miles.

Amsoil is a fantastic oil. I use it in my automobiles and have used it in bikes, too.

Shell Rotella is also a very good oil. Have used it in my older bikes to very good effect.
 

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I just switched to Motul synthetic blend 5100 10W/40 and will go full synthetic in a few thousand miles.


Is it preferable to go to a synth/dino blend before going to full synthetic?
 

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Invader's info is good news to me. The wet clutch is the separating factor between Automotive Oil and Motorcycle oil. When the oil industries starting adding increased percentages of "friction modifiers" some bikes started to experience slipping clutches. Motorcycle specific oils had reduced friction modifiers in their formulation. I use the Rotella in My ST1100 and have found it to be excellent. I will say that the Amsoil did provide smoother shifting than other oils.

Filter construction has long been a topic of discussion on ST forums. Several people over the years have done extensive research on various filters quality of construction and filtering ability. There is much more to a filter than rather it will fit or not. Bypass valve, drain-back and several issues concerning mesh size of the filter media and square area of the filter media are important issues.

If you are willing to pay extra to switch to full synthetic then I would suggest you pay for the OEM brand name filter as well. One of the major advantages to using full synthetic oil is that it holds up longer and thus allows longer change intervals.

If you are really serious about oil qualities, I suggest you contact an organization like Blackstone Labs and get your oil tested. Based on these tests you can set up an informed change interval based on facts and not on a Lawyer's Liability Interval. :)

Red
 
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