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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
SOLVED: Oil pressure light stays on after 1st oil change

Hey all. Just changed the oil at 400 miles on my new '02. I did everything by the book and I have done many moto oil changes. Everything is tight and there are no leaks, and the oil level is just over midway between the notches in the sight gauge. But the oil pressure warning light didn't go off after approximately 30 seconds of running the bike at idle. I have never seen this before and am terrified to continue running the bike. Is this normal? I used a 3 1/2" Mobil 1 filter, which I prefilled, and Castrol 20W-50 regular automobile oil.
 

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Hey all. Just changed the oil at 400 miles on my new '02. I did everything by the book and I have done many moto oil changes. Everything is tight and there are no leaks, and the oil level is just over midway between the notches in the sight gauge. But the oil pressure warning light didn't go off after approximately 30 seconds of running the bike at idle. I have never seen this before and am terrified to continue running the bike. Is this normal? I used a 3 1/2" Mobil 1 filter, which I prefilled, and Castrol 20W-50 regular automobile oil.
First, I don't think that's normal... although... it usually does stay on for a few seconds to get the oil circulated.

We've all seen that, you've seen that with the other changes you've done. But 30 secs would have me worried too.

At the risk of some members wanting to shoot me, I never use anything but the oem filters. Something about the amount of flow allowed and 'back pressure', iirc reading some articles about it.

It seems like the only thing that could be causing an issue though, given what you've done? If it were me, I'd change to an oem filter and see if the light goes out?

Forgot to add; it may be the 20w-50. I've heard that if anything, now a days, engines have such tight tolerances, a lighter weight oil is recommended. I put 20w-50 in my (long gone) st1300, it was hard to start (turned slowly) and always seemed to run slower, or differently for sure. And that is one of the things I remember reading about using a thicker weight oil, it doesn't lubricate up at the top as quickly upon start up. So have always just used oem spec. I realize oem spec is indicated in manual and in hot temps use etc etc. But even in Florida during the summer, the 20w-50 seemed too heavy for the ST1300.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hi Azitlies, I would probably have used an OEM filter, but the closest dealer is now an hour away, since the dealer I bought mine from went out of business two days after I bought. I heard the Mobil 1 is the best available filter. I wanted the Bosch, but they were out of it at my local parts store so I bought the Mobil at a $7 premium. The only other brands they had which fit were Fram (of course) and AC Delco. They even had the "moto specific" Fram filters, but I won't use Fram at all.

I've also read I might have to "burp" the system by loosening the filter until the light goes off, but this scares me a bit too. Oh, and I used 20W-50 because I have heard 10W-40 automobile doesn't hold up well in bikes.
 

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Hi Azitlies, I would probably have used an OEM filter, but the closest dealer is now an hour away, since the dealer I bought mine from went out of business two days after I bought. I heard the Mobil 1 is the best available filter. I wanted the Bosch, but they were out of it at my local parts store so I bought the Mobil at a $7 premium. The only other brands they had which fit were Fram (of course) and AC Delco. They even had the "moto specific" Fram filters, but I won't use Fram at all.

I've also read I might have to "burp" the system by loosening the filter until the light goes off, but this scares me a bit too. Oh, and I used 20W-50 because I have heard 10W-40 automobile doesn't hold up well in bikes.

Well for me anyway, take that for what it's worth, I always use motorcycle specific oil, and thus the weight oil proper for where I live. One thing for sure, the V takes such a small amount of oil, it's not that expensive to get the best stuff.

Don't remember where I read the stuff about oil filters. And would have to say when someone says this one is "the best", gotta ask... best for what? I don't think they're "all the same", at least that's what I remember reading, so rather than worry about it, I just use oem. Than if something goes wrong I'll just sue Kawasaki ;)

I have never heard of 'burping' the system... no idea what that means.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I grew a pair, started it up, held it at about 1800rpm for about 20 seconds and the light went out. Seemed like the longest 20 seconds of my life :)

Honestly I'm not cheap on oil or anything else related to maintenance. I only got auto oil for the break-in. I'll be using top quality synthetic as soon as it's over. The filter info came from here: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html#OilFilters He isn't necessarily an authority, but he has done the research. Thanks for the help Azitlies, it is much appreciated.
 

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I grew a pair, started it up, held it at about 1800rpm for about 20 seconds and the light went out. Seemed like the longest 20 seconds of my life :)

Honestly I'm not cheap on oil or anything else related to maintenance. I only got auto oil for the break-in. I'll be using top quality synthetic as soon as it's over. The filter info came from here: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html#OilFilters He isn't necessarily an authority, but he has done the research. Thanks for the help Azitlies, it is much appreciated.
no worries mate. Glad it's okay... I hate when I have to sweat like that ;)
 

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A previous bike sometimes required you to "burp" the oil filter. I don't know if this was unique to it's design but if the bike was laid on it's side it required burping to get the oil flowing again. This required loosing the oil filter, starting the bike up and running till oil squirted out around the filter and then screwing it in. The idea was to remove an air lock preventing the circulation of oil.
 

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with owning a 2007 since july 2008 and with 24,00km I have never had an issue with having to burp my bike my 10 month old son yes but never the bike
 

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I never have filled an oil filter before installing. I let the motor run for a few minutes and check the level. The bike will fill the filter for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I never have filled an oil filter before installing. I let the motor run for a few minutes and check the level. The bike will fill the filter for you.
I've done it both ways, and I might not normally but on a brand new, not fully broken in bike it made sense to me.
 

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My dad showed me how to change the oil in my car when I was a teen. We always fill the filter over half full to saturate the membrane then smear around the o-ring to wet it for a good seal. Have done this ever since.
 

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I've done it both ways, and I might not normally but on a brand new, not fully broken in bike it made sense to me.
I work on multi million dollar helicopters. When we change engine oil filters, gear box filters, or any other filters with the exception of the hydraulic filters we never fill them first. The system will fill them. No harm in doing so first, I just think with the location of the filter it is easier to not fill it first. The hydraulic filters we fill first to prevent air from entering the system.

My dad showed me how to change the oil in my car when I was a teen. We always fill the filter over half full to saturate the membrane then smear around the o-ring to wet it for a good seal. Have done this ever since.
You should always lube the o-rings first.
 

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FWIW:

If your bike was off the ground being supported by the front and back stands and you watched the oil level as you added oil, if you only added oil until the oil level came up between the low and high marks on the view gauge, you will not have enough oil in your bike.

Make certain you have 2L and pour it all in. The oil view window will show it is overfilled at first, then the level will even out between the full and add marks. If you stop adding oil when it first gets to the "safe zone" area, there will not be enough oil in the motor.

Always measure the required amount (2L) and dump it all in !!!
 

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Hey all. Just changed the oil at 400 miles on my new '02. I did everything by the book and I have done many moto oil changes. Everything is tight and there are no leaks, and the oil level is just over midway between the notches in the sight gauge. But the oil pressure warning light didn't go off after approximately 30 seconds of running the bike at idle. I have never seen this before and am terrified to continue running the bike. Is this normal? I used a 3 1/2" Mobil 1 filter, which I prefilled, and Castrol 20W-50 regular automobile oil.
You mean your new '12?

Your Castrol 20W-50's viscosity is over 50% higher than 10W-40 at startup, which is excessive and too resistant to flow. It's also dragging you down, affecting performance and fuel efficiency... Dump that molasses out and get some proper 10W-40 or 5W-40 JASO MA rated oil such as Shell Rotella T6 ASAP.
I use Amsoil AFF 0W-40.

http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/files/Castrol GTX.pdf

http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/motoroil.htm

http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-52.pdf

http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil/aff.htm
 

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i just changed my oil. no light, normal operation.

7.99 for a hiflo filtro
28.00 for 2qt of mobil 1 4t 20-50


nothing wrong with 20-50, the manual specs it out, if you meet the req. However if i lived anywhere that got cold, i would probably not use it.
 

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Even in a place with hot weather, 20W-50 is ridiculous for a liquid-cooled engine. There's no benefit you're getting out of running it, unless you track the bike or something. A 20W-XX will remain thicker longer during warm-up, increasing wear & tear, especially if the rider enjoys revving high early on.

Now, on an air-cooled engine, I might give the 20W-50 a try.
 

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i'll stick with 20 50 in the summer, 10-40 in the riding season. Yesterday i rode 400 miles or so and the ambient temp was 110. Brutal hot riding, i'll admit but in this case i'll run the thicker stuff, it's not going to hurt anything.

All things considered, as long as one changes the oil prudently, run what ya like.
 

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I never have filled an oil filter before installing. I let the motor run for a few minutes and check the level. The bike will fill the filter for you.
My dad showed me how to change the oil in my car when I was a teen. We always fill the filter over half full to saturate the membrane then smear around the o-ring to wet it for a good seal. Have done this ever since.
I personally fill the filter first just to know that the oil is circulating SOONER, rather than filling up the filter....
:goodluck:
 

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I personally fill the filter first just to know that the oil is circulating SOONER, rather than filling up the filter....
:goodluck:
I do it too, as much as the oil filter mounting angle allows. There is an obvious difference on my car which has the oil filter hanging straight down. Upon starting engine after oil and filter change, oil light goes out and engine tapping noise stops much more quickly.
On the Versys, I prime the oil pump, filter and passages before starting engine by turning rear wheel by hand in 6th gear.
 
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