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I use Mobil1 15w-50, bought from Walmart for about $26 for 5 qts. Works VG for ME, and seems pretty inexpensive! I change at 5K miles (8K kms).
+1 for getting your oil at WalMart. I do exactly as FE does in terms of what oil, 15W-50 (we both live in the desert, but you are in a fairly warm area) and change at 4-5K.
 

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I know that it is recommended to change the crush washer, but I have never changed it. 70,000 km and no leaks. I always keep it on the bolt and torque to specifications.

If you feel more secure by changing it, go ahead. Also, copper crush washers can be restored to a non-crushed state by heating to cherry red with a propane torch. Quench in water and re-use.
 

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I know no one has posted in this thread for a couple months but I searched the entire thing and couldn't find the answer to my question. Does anyone know the size of the crush washer needed so that I could purchase a replacement? I haven't drained the oil in my '16 V650 yet which is why I am asking.
I buy them at O'Reillys (NAPA should have them too).

!/2" copper washers [several per bag]. I ALWAYS anneal the one I take out, to use NEXT change, while the LAST one, re-annealed THEN, goes in, and ALWAYS torque the drain plug as per SERVICE MANUAL.
 

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I recently installed a Fumoto oil drain valve in my automobile. The standard plug always made a mess on the fiberglass panel under the engine when first pulled out. The Fumoto has a plastic hose that attaches to drain the oil neatly without getting oil all over my hands and the garage floor. I will probably install one next year on the V650 to make oil changes cleaner and faster.
 

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I recently installed a Fumoto oil drain valve in my automobile. The standard plug always made a mess on the fiberglass panel under the engine when first pulled out. The Fumoto has a plastic hose that attaches to drain the oil neatly without getting oil all over my hands and the garage floor. I will probably install one next year on the V650 to make oil changes cleaner and faster.
Not sure if that brand has the safety wire option. But when I looked at the drain plugs like that, there was a version for the Versys that had the safety wire hole in the handle and plug so you could make sure it stayed closed. It was only like $5 more for the one that had it vs the one that did not.
 

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I bought a 2018 Versys 650 new this past April. When I first started riding it, I noticed there was an unpleasant vibration around 4000-4500rpm. Not a deal breaker, but enough that I thought that rpm range should probably be avoided. Also, below 4000 was no pleasure either. Sure, work your way up through the gears, but when arriving at the desired cruising speed...anywhere between 25mph and 55mph....it's best to keep the rpm at 5000. 5k seemed to be a nice sweet spot. And 65mph is right at 5k rpm...and the bike is so smooth at that speed/rpm.

I changed the oil at 500 miles, and I switched to full synthetic.

The bike now has 2300 miles on it, and I can't believe how much the engine has smoothed out. That 'unpleasant vibration' at 4000-4500 is completely GONE! I'm so surprised this has happened. I don't know if switching to full synthetic contributes to this or not. This new smoothness has only come on in the last 600-700 miles or so. (or perhaps that's when I really started to notice)

I can now ride the bike at much lower rpm. As long as I'm holding a steady speed and don't need lots of power (like going up a hill), I can run the bike at 3000-4000rpm, and it feels fine. Heck, now when I get the rpm's up near 5k, I feel as if that's too high. (for steady cruising) I was originally going to consider the ECU tune from Shoodaben, but I don't think it's needed.

In my years breaking in new car engines...I've never noticed ANY difference in the feel of the car/engine. But I'm shocked at such a transformation on the Versys 650.
 

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Most Kawasaki dealerships want to wait until the 4,000 mile mark before going synthetic. Several have told me it's a clutch break-in issue more than anything else. I am getting ready to move to synthetic soon. Maybe someone here can elaborate further.
I "broke-in" my three V650s on the ride home from the dealer (about 50 miles), then changed the oil/filter, then AGAIN at 500, and at 1,000 miles. Then at 1,000 miles I switched to Mobil1 15w-50 (automobile oil!) which I get for about $25 for 5L @ Walmart, and THAT is changed each 5K miles (8K kms).

WAY-Y-Y smoother, and NO clutch slip!!!

>:)
 

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I also have vibration at 4000-5000 rpm after first service at 1000km and after adding handguard and crashbar I notice more and more vibration, and one day I didn't notice anything until one guy rearend me when I was standing on 1 place waiting to my turn for highway toll payment. After that I notice everthing until I get to service where they check bike and say that is everything OK. After that I didn't feel any vibration in any range. But after second service at 6000km I again feel that stupid vibration.

Anyway how I feel different every day, same is with vibration, sometimes they get me crazy, sometimes I don't feel them.

I have trip in 1 direction 750km in one day (10 hours of driving), I didn't feel any vibration, I was excited ,the first trip with my new and first motorbike in life and I went to sea on little vacation. That is reason why I say that felling affect on riding and how much stuff you will notice.
One day I notice many thing, next day nothing, so I think: I am crazy or what? Probably crazy hahahah

P.S. service guy use motorex 15w-50 for my 2018 Versys 650
 

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If you put car oil in a wet clutch bike, you'll have a bad time.
I ... and many others ... must be jinxed ... because I have been using synthetic car/diesel machinery oil without any problems in my bikes for over 20 years.


If the API doughnut shaped label in the back of the containers does not show anything in the bottom portion of the doughnut, it's OK because it does not contain frictions modifiers.
Example:

 

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If you put car oil in a wet clutch bike, you'll have a bad time.
NOT so! ALL three of my V650s have run MOST of their "lives" on Mobil1 15w-50 car oil - the '08 has 85,219 MILES, the "written-off" '09 HAD 62,790 KMS - 39,016 MILES, while my '15 has just OVER 71,000 KMS - 44,117 MILES.

Prior to the Versys, I rode an '03 Suzuki Bandit 1200S (OVER 100HP) on Mobil1 10w-30 CAR oil which HAS 'friction-modifiers' after conversing w/ a successful B1200S drag-racer who uses Mobil1 5w-30 CAR oil in HIS high revving 1200, and recommended it. I used the 10w-30 instead of the 5w-30 Mobil1 simply because I already had it, using it in my wife's car, and the Bandit had 40,000 KMS - 24,855 miles w/ NO problems when I sold it.

:grin2:

I do NOT recommend using ANY oil w/ 'friction-modifiers' in a Versys, simply because I have NOT PERSONALLY tried it!!!
 

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I just did my first oil change and I took a few pics to document the process. It's super easy on the Versys, so even newbies should feel confident about chaning their own oil.

It's almost too easy to bother documenting, but it may help somebody...

What you need - fuzzy pic



  • One 17mm Metric Socket
  • Oil filter wrench (take a new filter to the auto parts store and test fit if you don't have a collection)
  • New drain plug crush washer
  • New Oil Filter
  • 2 Quarts of Oil (actually, mine took 2.35 quarts after draining the whole MotoGP race)
  • Torque wrench (or calibrated wrench skills)
  • Oil-catch basin
  • Funnel

Step 1 - Prep

Warm the oil so it flows easier.

Step 2 - Drain



Place the Oil-catch basin under the drain plug and use the 17mm socket to remove the drain plug and let the oil drain.

Step 3 - Filter Removal



Move the catch basin so it is under the drain plug AND the Oil filter base. Use the Oil filter wrench to loosen the oil filter. TIP: To keep oil off the exaust head pipe, place some aluminum foil over it and shape it to "guide" the oil into the catch basin.

Step 4 - Botton Her Up



When your tired of watching oil drip out, it's time to button her up. Set your torque-wrench to 22 foot-pounds, place a new crush washer on your drain plug (hope it didn't fall in the hot oil) and install.

For the Oil filter, coat the O-ring with oil and install to 13 foot-pounds or "tight" if you're like me and have never used a torque-wrench on an Oil filter. TIP: fill the Oil filter with some oil to prevent a dry start.

Step 5 - Oil Fill



Because of the awkward angle of the Versys Oil fill oriface, place the bike back on the side stand (if not already there). Place your funnel in the hole and pour in the fresh oil. When you're done, place the filler cap back on.

Step 6 - Etc

  • Stand the bike up and check the oil, add if necessary
  • Start the engine and check for any leaks (and address)
  • Document the oil change date and mileage
  • Clean up and properly dispose of your oil

Here is what came out of my engine...



Step 7 - Enjoy a well earned beer

I just did my first oil change and I took a few pics to document the process. It's super easy on the Versys, so even newbies should feel confident about chaning their own oil.

It's almost too easy to bother documenting, but it may help somebody...

What you need - fuzzy pic



  • One 17mm Metric Socket
  • Oil filter wrench (take a new filter to the auto parts store and test fit if you don't have a collection)
  • New drain plug crush washer
  • New Oil Filter
  • 2 Quarts of Oil (actually, mine took 2.35 quarts after draining the whole MotoGP race)
  • Torque wrench (or calibrated wrench skills)
  • Oil-catch basin
  • Funnel

Step 1 - Prep

Warm the oil so it flows easier.

Step 2 - Drain



Place the Oil-catch basin under the drain plug and use the 17mm socket to remove the drain plug and let the oil drain.

Step 3 - Filter Removal



Move the catch basin so it is under the drain plug AND the Oil filter base. Use the Oil filter wrench to loosen the oil filter. TIP: To keep oil off the exaust head pipe, place some aluminum foil over it and shape it to "guide" the oil into the catch basin.

Step 4 - Botton Her Up



When your tired of watching oil drip out, it's time to button her up. Set your torque-wrench to 22 foot-pounds, place a new crush washer on your drain plug (hope it didn't fall in the hot oil) and install.

For the Oil filter, coat the O-ring with oil and install to 13 foot-pounds or "tight" if you're like me and have never used a torque-wrench on an Oil filter. TIP: fill the Oil filter with some oil to prevent a dry start.

Step 5 - Oil Fill



Because of the awkward angle of the Versys Oil fill oriface, place the bike back on the side stand (if not already there). Place your funnel in the hole and pour in the fresh oil. When you're done, place the filler cap back on.

Step 6 - Etc

  • Stand the bike up and check the oil, add if necessary
  • Start the engine and check for any leaks (and address)
  • Document the oil change date and mileage
  • Clean up and properly dispose of your oil

Here is what came out of my engine...



Step 7 - Enjoy a well earned beer

How did you get to the oil filter? I can't even see mine, What needs to be removed? 2013 Versys 650
 
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