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Oil capacity at oil change

46K views 14 replies 12 participants last post by  NighthawkGS 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
2011 V650. The owner's manual says 2.0 quarts are required when changing the oil and filter. When I do an oil & filter change I need something like 2.4 quarts to bring the oil level up to the full mark. 2.0 quarts barely reaches the low oil mark. The bike is level on a paddock stand.

Is this common?
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
It kind of depends on if you warm the bike up before changing the oil and if every drop gets out, on my mk1 it says 1.8Qt without changing the filter (who does that?) 2QT with the filter change and 2.5QT when the engine is dry. I think they give that range so you don't overfill the motor with oil when doing an oil change and it doesn't all drain out.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
2011 V650. Owners manual says 2.0quarts required when changing oil and filter. When I do an oil & filter change I need something like 2.4 quarts to bring the oil level up to the full mark. 2.0 quarts barely reaches the low oil mark. Bike is level on paddock stand.

Is this common?
I would suggest that you check the oil level with the bike LEVEL (on the ground), not on a paddock stand. My 2 Vs show the oil level as LOW on a stand, but CORRECT w/ wheels on the ground, the bike held upright.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I would suggest that you check the oil-level w/ the bike LEVEL (on the ground), not on a paddock stand. My 2 Vs show the oil-level as LOW on a stand, but CORRECT w/ wheels on the ground, bike held upright.
I stand corrected. Fast Eddie is right. I just tried this again on my V650 and to my amazement the oil sight gauge does show a bit lower with the back wheel off the ground on the paddock stand. Must be an oil sucking Chupacabra lurking in my engine...Lol.

Moral of the story??? Never doubt the Super Moderator!

Good one Eddie.

Cheers.
 
#7 ·
Recommended Engine Oil
Type: API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA,
MA1 or MA2
Viscosity: SAE 10W-40
Capacity:
1.6 L (1.7 US qt) (When filter is not removed.)
1.8 L (1.9 US qt) (When filter is removed.)
2.3 L (2.4 US qt) (When engine is completely dry.) (personal experience take around 3.4 QT when changing the Clutch) :nerd:

Oil Level Inspection
•Check that the engine oil level is between the upper [A] and lower levels in the oil level inspection window.
NOTE
○Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground.
○If the motorcycle has just been used, wait several minutes for all the oil to drain down.
○If the oil has just been changed, start the engine and run it for several minutes at idle speed. This fills the oil filter with oil. Stop the engine, then wait several minutes until the oil settles.
 
#9 ·
I noticed that having the bike perfectly level is important even a slight lean left or right makes a fairly significant difference. With the bike on a level surface kick stand down front wheel strait, from the right side of the bike pull it upright until you feel the weight tipping over to the right i.e. the bike just starting to fall towards you, then push back to the upright position, there is a point where you are neither pushing or pulling the bike is level. With the bike leaning even just a few inches throws off the oil level in the sight glass.
 
#11 ·
2.4 quarts is for a completely dry engine, which is not the case when changing the oil and filter... My 2007 takes 2.2 quarts after a very thorough draining.

Yes it must be held upright and balanced against gravity, as when you can let it go and it stands up by itself for a moment.

Was there not a reduction in oil capacity for late model Versys 650 with oil pan change?
 
#13 ·
...Was there not a reduction in oil capacity for late model Versys 650 with oil pan change?...
Yes - my Gen 3 ('15 V650) owner's manual calls for 1.8L (1.9US qts) w/ filter change.

I just pour in a 1L can, then 'gently' pour in more till it hits the "hi level" marks on the sight gauge, bike UPRIGHT and on its wheels.
 
#12 ·
Mentioned above, but worth repeating:

If the front wheel isn't straight, the reading will vary: Front wheel turned to the left, oil will read high in sight glass; turned to the right, it will read significantly lower. So, if you fill to the top when pointed left, it will read above the sight glass when pointed right. And you may be tempted to drain some of the "excess" off. ;(
 
#14 ·
2011 V650. Owners manual says 2.0quarts required when changing oil and filter. When I do an oil & filter change I need something like 2.4 quarts to bring the oil level up to the full mark. 2.0 quarts barely reaches the low oil mark. Bike is level on paddock stand.

Is this common?
Your motorcycle’s oil level is not subjective / nor a personal preference. It is determined by the manufacturer of your particular bike and must be adhered to unless you want to tempt the” Gods of Motorcycle Engine Failure”.

Obviously if the oil level drops too low, there is less oil to pump, less oil to carry away engine heat and the possibility of oil pump cavitation (little or no oil flow at all). Add oil to between the “Low” and “Full” marks on the sight glass / dipstick. As many have said already with the bike level, vertical and on both wheels (not a swing arm stand).

Yet very few of us consider the opposite scenario: too much oil in the sump – what could possibly go wrong? If 2 quarts of oil is required why not 2-1/2 or 3? More is better, right? A bit more probably won’t hurt but how much is too much? A ¼ to ½ quart may be alright but beyond that you may be setting your engine up for failure. Without being able to see inside the engine the oil level has to be low enough during normal operation so that the spinning crankshaft never comes into contact with the oil in the sump! Two reasons for this. First it will create excess drag as the crankshaft splashes through the viscous oil reducing HP and efficiency. Second, and far more importantly, it will “whip” the oil into a frothy liquid (just like a blender). This is disaster and will cause the oil to become entrained with air. Air entrained oil will not be anywhere nearly viscous enough to protect spinning / sliding parts properly, will not carry away nearly enough engine heat, cause the oil pump to cavitate severely reducing oil flow – all of these factors leading to engine failure.

So, it may seem like a good idea to add a bit more oil than what the manufacturer recommends but just don’t add too much (whatever that might be). The better approach would be to check the oil with the bike vertical, level and with both wheels on the ground after the engine has been shut down for a few minutes to allow the oil to drain into the sump. If you just have to add more oil, no more than say ¼ quart above the “full” line on the sight glass or dipstick.
 
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