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Discussion Starter #1
I was up in sequoia today and did something dumb. I was exhausted an making a really right turn and the bike tipped over. Picked it up and it wouldn't start. When I turned it on the neutral light was flickering and nothing else came on. Eventually the rest of the dash came on. When I tried to start it everything just shut off. If I waited a bit the dash would pop back up.

I got it to bump start. Ride about 60 miles towards home and it died again. Wouldn't start back up. I'm waiting on a tow. What do you guys think could be the problem. Could it be as simple as the battery? Where should I start? Charging system? Alternator? Did the tip over have anything to do with it or could it have been a total coincidence?
 

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The FI flickers due to the vehicle down sensor (VDS).

Put the bike up on it's side stand.
Check ignition is off.
Confirm bike is in nuetral.
Switch on the ignition and booted up.
Start the bike with the clutch pulled in.
The bike should start up and be like normal.

I think that what I did when I have a bike crash.

Sorry to hear your spill. Glad you sound ok. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmmm my bike will never start in first. It's like it won't read that the clutch is fully pulled in. Anyone know why that might be? This is a problem I've always had since I got the bike.
 

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Check your battery connections, and make sure they're tight.
Which side did you fall on? Any damage? What year and mileage? Is it the original Yuasa battery?

Hmmm my bike will never start in first. It's like it won't read that the clutch is fully pulled in. Anyone know why that might be? This is a problem I've always had since I got the bike.
Check your clutch switch wire plug-in under the lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh yea tried pulling the clutch all the way in. That didn't work. Really think its something electrical cause the gauges and stuff won't always turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Check your battery connections, and make sure they're tight.
Which side did you fall on? Any damage? What year and mileage? Is it the original Yuasa battery?



Check your clutch switch wire plug-in under the lever.
Left side. No damage have engine guards and boxes. Nothing touched. 08. 19k. Looks like the battery has been replaced. Checked the connection multiple times. That was all good
 

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Not sure but here's what in the manual that could help to troubleshoot:

Check any damage on the side stand switch. It's on the left side of the bike.
Use a voltmeter to check your battery health.

Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting
Difficulty:


Starter motor not rotating:
Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trouble
Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage low
Starter relay not contacting or operating
Starter button not contacting
Wiring open or shorted
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Fuse blown

Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t
turn over:

Starter clutch trouble
Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off

Engine won’t turn over:
Valve seizure
Valve lifter seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Starter idle gear seizure

No fuel flow:
No fuel in tank
Fuel pump trouble
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel filter clogged
Fuel line clogged

Engine flooded:
Clean spark plug and adjust plug gap

Starting technique faulty
(When flooded, do not crank the engine with
the throttle fully opened. This promotes
engine flood because more fuel is supplied
automatically by DFI.)

No spark; spark weak:
Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off
Ignition switch not ON
Engine stop switch turned OFF
Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neutral
Battery voltage low
Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Stick coil shorted or not in good contact
Stick coil trouble
Spark plug incorrect
IC igniter in ECU trouble
Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch
trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Ignition switch or engine stop switch
shorted
Wiring shorted or open
Fuse blown

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Bypass screw and/or idle adjusting screw
maladjusted
Air passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing

Compression Low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened
down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or
sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent,
worn, or carbon accumulation on the
seating surface)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The battery is a gel battery so no leak. Tested it and it's putting out 12.7v. Looks like the battery isn't the problem.

Back to the vds...my clutch is a tight as possible now. Is there a way to cheat the clutch sensor to see if this could be the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, update. Went to look into it some more. Today the bike wouldnt even turn the gauges on. So I was thinking either something got unplugged somewhere, or I have a bad battery even though its putting out 12v.

Pulled my gf's car up, hooked the jumper cables up. Started instantly. Well, figured something out. The battery is shot for sure, but its usually not that easy right? Probably something wrong with my charging system? Im gonna go get a new battery, but it will probably take a bit for me to find out if its charging right? Is there a way to test this other than just waiting for it to die again?
 

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Ok, update. Went to look into it some more. Today the bike wouldnt even turn the gauges on. So I was thinking either something got unplugged somewhere, or I have a bad battery even though its putting out 12v.

Pulled my gf's car up, hooked the jumper cables up. Started instantly. Well, figured something out. The battery is shot for sure, but its usually not that easy right? Probably something wrong with my charging system? Im gonna go get a new battery, but it will probably take a bit for me to find out if its charging right? Is there a way to test this other than just waiting for it to die again?
I just read a report *(Motorcyclist, AUG 2012) saying Lithium/gell batteries are sensitive to being knocked around...unlike acid batt's which are very durable regarding physical bumps and tumbles.
is the battery secure or floating around in the battery box?
Gell/lithium batteries can be ruined if they fall below 12v and they don't like being bounced around.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just read a report *(Motorcyclist, AUG 2012) saying Lithium/gell batteries are sensitive to being knocked around...unlike acid batt's which are very durable regarding physical bumps and tumbles.
is the battery secure or floating around in the battery box?
Gell/lithium batteries can be ruined if they fall below 12v and they don't like being bounced around.
Well that may have been the problem. I just tested it with the volt meter. about 12.5 off. 12.9 at idle, and about 14.5 at 5k. Seems about right yea? Maybe the battery just didnt like getting knocked over.

Now heres the thing. Still having FI issues. If I turn the key and the switch is on, and i try and start the bike, wont start FI flickers. Turn it off. Flip the switch to kill, turn the key on, then kick over the switch, starts right up..... Shouldnt it reset after the one time?
 

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Well that may have been the problem. I just tested it with the volt meter. about 12.5 off. 12.9 at idle, and about 14.5 at 5k. Seems about right yea? Maybe the battery just didnt like getting knocked over.
This part is perfect. It should be more than 9.6 volts while cranking the engine. If lower, the battery needs charging or is junk.

David
 

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Jump start first and then measure voltage on battery. One weekend of not riding should not have problem. Just start and check voltage first.-
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I replaced the battery last weekend, so it was a new battery. I took it back to auto zone and tried to make them replace it or give me my money back, and they said they had to charge it and test it first. If the battery was working on friday afternoon, and then not on sunday afternoon, something is wrong with the battery I would think.

When I checked the voltage it was at 5.6 or something. I did jump it, and it charged up a bit, but even after 10 minutes of riding around it wasnt charged enough to actually start the bike. I have no accessories so nothing could have been left on.

I should probably order a non auto zone special battery, but since I have been having some problems I'd like to make sure everything is ok.
 
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