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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished a weekend of tearing down the V. Wanted to change plugs, clean the BMC filter, and synch the throttle bodies, and added a Leo Vince underbody slip on. While I was in there I did a few other mods I read about on here-- Throttle body bridge, PAIR valve block, and TPS adjustment.

I'm happy I did everything except the TPS. Not sure how everyone else is experiencing "more power" but that was not the case in my experience. As I expected, rotating the sensor counterclockwise from its stock setting caused a sense of the throttle being slightly open, even when my throttle was "closed." Sure this can help fix symptoms of a retarded TPS: jerkiness at roll off/on, the on-off-switch like transition from roll off to roll on, but for my bike, it made my revs hang and gave an unnatural, disconnected feeling to the bike, and definitely no more power.

My guess is that my TPS was properly set from the factory. Luckily I was able to get it back to it's silky smoothness by tinkering with it until it felt stock. Really, I disliked the way the bike was behaving with the advanced TPS (and hated the way it was after I retarded it too much while trying to correct it.) Glad I at least tried it though.

TLDR; adjust the TPS only if your throttle valves close before your throttle hand closes the throttle. This is only what the TPS adjustment is for. No more power to be found here.
 

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I just finished a weekend of tearing down the V. Wanted to change plugs, clean the BMC filter, and synch the throttle bodies, and added a Leo Vince underbody slip on. While I was in there I did a few other mods I read about on here-- Throttle body bridge, PAIR valve block, and TPS adjustment.

I'm happy I did everything except the TPS. Not sure how everyone else is experiencing "more power" but that was not the case in my experience. As I expected, rotating the sensor counterclockwise from its stock setting caused a sense of the throttle being slightly open, even when my throttle was "closed." Sure this can help fix symptoms of a retarded TPS: jerkiness at roll off/on, the on-off-switch like transition from roll off to roll on, but for my bike, it made my revs hang and gave an unnatural, disconnected feeling to the bike, and definitely no more power.

My guess is that my TPS was properly set from the factory. Luckily I was able to get it back to it's silky smoothness by tinkering with it until it felt stock. Really, I disliked the way the bike was behaving with the advanced TPS (and hated the way it was after I retarded it too much while trying to correct it.) Glad I at least tried it though.

TLDR; adjust the TPS only if your throttle valves close before your throttle hand closes the throttle. This is only what the TPS adjustment is for. No more power to be found here.
Here comes the storm !

LOP
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Just my experience. Getting the TPS back to where it was stock can be a real annoyance and guessing game, and likely that it not be put back exactly how it came from the factory (despite paint marks) just "close enough."

If, and only if, you get that feeling of throttle cutting off before your close the throttle, like an on off switch, in any gear, any speed (not just taking off because that can be other issues), then touch the TPS. My hunch is that very very few bikes (virtually 0) will actually be off. I was cruising along at 40mph in 4th or 5th gear and got the abrupt light switch on off of the throttle after I overcorrected my TPS trying to get it back to stock.

Moving the TPS can help launch, but is just compensating for other issues. Be sure throttle free play, clutch technique, and fueling-- if you have an aftermarket air filter or exhaust, are correct.
 

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Just my experience. Getting the TPS back to where it was stock can be a real annoyance and guessing game, and likely that it not be put back exactly how it came from the factory (despite paint marks) just "close enough."....
Don't forget that the SERVICE MANUAL has the voltage that a correct TPS will display on your multi-meter.
 

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Where did you get the idea it could give you more power? You're ridiculous, 10dadeo... You simply rotated it too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You're right, fasteddie it does. Right here Invader. I don't have a mutlimeter and I'm frustrated with trying to get it back to where it was. I think others should know lest they make the same mistake I made.

I think we can agree the adjustment should only be made if throttle is cutting off before one completely rolls off the throttle?
 

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In the manual/ no guessing

Just my experience. Getting the TPS back to where it was stock can be a real annoyance and guessing game, and likely that it not be put back exactly how it came from the factory (despite paint marks) just "close enough."

If, and only if, you get that feeling of throttle cutting off before your close the throttle, like an on off switch, in any gear, any speed (not just taking off because that can be other issues), then touch the TPS. My hunch is that very very few bikes (virtually 0) will actually be off. I was cruising along at 40mph in 4th or 5th gear and got the abrupt light switch on off of the throttle after I overcorrected my TPS trying to get it back to stock.

Moving the TPS can help launch, but is just compensating for other issues. Be sure throttle free play, clutch technique, and fueling-- if you have an aftermarket air filter or exhaust, are correct.
All I can say is, read the manual, 0 guessing, 5 minute job, and without a meter, not possible to set accurately.So anyone reading this thread, skip from Getting the TPSand get your service manual out or download the one on this site, get educated, the only saving grace on this post is Just my experience, since I have done it at least 6 times over 2 bikes I can tell you that there are several measurements you will need to take, both before and after warmed up, the manual has this as a trouble shooting description, since there have been cases of TPS failure, no use adjusting a defective TPS, hence the Read the Manual in my post.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Quick update. Ordered the sensor harnesses and checked the voltages of the TPS and the Sub TPS with a multimeter. After blind adjustment, TPS was still in spec, but Sub TPS was out.

Had the Sub TPS rotated fully counter clockwise as suggested on the forums and it caused a clicking sound when priming, as the sub throttle plates met the TB venturi briefly and rotated back. Not a good sound. Rotating back too far clockwise caused the FI light to go off at WOT, with no adverse effects.

Neither extreme in Sub TPS adjustment made any difference in performance, but could damage the servos if too far counter clockwise. Main TPS adjustment only changes throttle feel--could be worth checking if your have a jerky throttle transition.
 
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