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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm in anchorage at the moment and I'm a bit worried about my bike. I've been noticing that after a hundred miles or so my bike makes a weird noise when I'm rolling and pull the clutch. I can't really hear anything I more so feel it in the pegs and seat. It seems to follow wheel speed and goes away if I let the clutch back out. At first i was worried about my transmission but it's been happening for a few days now....I'd think it would have blown up by now plus I don't see how pulling the clutch would make the transmission start making noise and then be ok again by letting it out.....It feels to me like the chain is slapping or rubbing the swing arm slider-thing. But I just went to a kawasaki dealer and he said it's not that far out of spec. He said it does need to be adjusted but it's not crazy or anything.

What do you guys think?
 

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Yeah, chain and sprocket wear, adjustment, lube... See if chain tension varies excessively as rear wheel rotates.
 

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I had a somewhat similar sound on my V and went ahead and replaced the chain despite it having only 10K on it and seeming to be fine. Went to new 44T rear and replaced the front as well. Both looked fine but you do this as a set if you can. I also replaced my rear bearings, as they are cheap and easy. Whatever it was, that grinding sound went away when I did these two things. Now she glides all quiet and smooth! And that's the way we like it now isn't it?

I agree with the other folks here that it is probably your chain in some way or another.

I lube my new chain with Honda Moly lube with Teflon as I like how it dries solid and is super slippery.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Forgot to mention....I brought chain lube with me and I've been doing it every morning. The tech at The Motorcycle Shop gave me his cell number and told me to call him tonight and he will do it for cheap....he didn't want me to have to pay the shop rate just for a chain adjustment. I'd do it myself but I don't have a way to get the rear off the ground and I don't think I've got the tool for the axle nut. I'll give him a call and have a pro do it for me this time.....I'm on vacation anyway
 

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So I'm in anchorage at the moment and I'm a bit worried about my bike. I've been noticing that after a hundred miles or so my bike makes a weird noise when I'm rolling and pull the clutch. I can't really hear anything I more so feel it in the pegs and seat. It seems to follow wheel speed and goes away if I let the clutch back out. At first i was worried about my transmission but it's been happening for a few days now....I'd think it would have blown up by now plus I don't see how pulling the clutch would make the transmission start making noise and then be ok again by letting it out.....It feels to me like the chain is slapping or rubbing the swing arm slider-thing. But I just went to a kawasaki dealer and he said it's not that far out of spec. He said it does need to be adjusted but it's not crazy or anything.

What do you guys think?
Put the bike in neutral, lift the rear wheel, and spin it by hand. Chances are it is the chain.
 

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:goodluck:

First time I rode thru "Turnagain Arm" south of Anchorage, the wind was blowin' PRETTY hard. I was on a Bandit 1200S, and that was the ONLY time I've been blown into another lane. Be careful, and enjoy all that beauty!!!
 

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chain...get that WD40 on there, seriously. find the cans with the fold down straw and lube everyday, or more. with the chloride dust and silty mud, that country eats chains. if you plan to get home on the chain you started with, lube now.
you probably already know about running 15-50 Mobile 1 for this trip. if not, get that in there to sooth the transmission, it will love you in return.
any questions, contact Father Edward Fast.
Yeah, chain and sprocket wear, adjustment, lube... See if chain tension varies excessively as rear wheel rotates.
As said here - chain! Frozen links - and/or worn chain/sprockets. 129,39 percent sure... :eek:
I don't think adjustment will help... Lube, lube and lube... But expect to replace the parts soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
But so soon? The bike only has 3000 miles after today. It is still doing it but it's not as noticeable after the chain tightening. I'm not worried about it now that I'm pretty sure it's the chain. More lube I guess! Thanks guys!

Also....what a ride! Yes very windy but it was worth it.
 

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I had to replace my chain at about the same mileage.
I think this was due to lack of proper maintenance, I listened to some people on this forum and used mostly WD40 for a longer period of time. This proved not to be good. WD40 is good for cleaning, but not for lubricating.
 

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I had to replace my chain at about the same mileage.
I think this was due to lack of proper maintenance, I listened to some people on this forum and used mostly WD40 for a longer period of time. This proved not to be good. WD40 is good for cleaning, but not for lubricating.
FWIW - I'm the guy who recommends WD40. That's ALL I use on my chains, and the one on my '08 (w/ 51,xxx miles!) is the ORIGINAL one. My KLR's chain lasted 54,xxx kms till I overtightened it going to Alaska, then had to replace it. The original chain on my '09 only lasted 39,030 kms, and I changed it after going to D2D 2013 (last June). I suspect the fact that my '09 was a "left-over", bought in Nov '10, and had spent a couple of years in the dealer's yard in the rain and dust, is why my chain "died" early.

Bill Watson (of "ThermoBob" fame) did an experiment on using only WD40 on the chain, and you can read it here:
http://www.watt-man.com/uploads/WD40experiment.pdf
and that's where I got the idea.

As for anders55's claim that WD40 is good for cleaning but not lubing: ALL the lube your chain will EVER have (as long as it's an O-ring or X-ring chain) was sealed in when it was made. All you're doing when you 'lube' your chain, is lubing the interface between the side-links of the chain and the O-rings so they don't 'gall' which will tear the O-ring and let the lube leak out....

:goodluck:
 

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FWIW - I'm the guy who recommends WD40. That's ALL I use on my chains, and the one on my '08 (w/ 51,xxx miles!) is the ORIGINAL one. My KLR's chain lasted 54,xxx kms till I overtightened it going to Alaska, then had to replace it. The original chain on my '09 only lasted 39,030 kms, and I changed it after going to D2D 2013 (last June). I suspect the fact that my '09 was a "left-over", bought in Nov '10, and had spent a couple of years in the dealer's yard in the rain and dust, is why my chain "died" early.

Bill Watson (of "ThermoBob" fame) did an experiment on using only WD40 on the chain, and you can read it here:
http://www.watt-man.com/uploads/WD40experiment.pdf
and that's where I got the idea.

As for anders55's claim that WD40 is good for cleaning but not lubing: ALL the lube your chain will EVER have (as long as it's an O-ring or X-ring chain) was sealed in when it was made. All you're doing when you 'lube' your chain, is lubing the interface between the side-links of the chain and the O-rings so they don't 'gall' which will tear the O-ring and let the lube leak out....

:goodluck:
I didn't not want to go over this again -tooooooo many threads here on this WD40 subject (and on your opinion, my friend).
But here we go again....
Can you cure a frozen X-, or O-ring chain by lubing it - something most of us agree on that you can - then I would say your theory is not 100 accurate.
I cut apart my first (WD40-treated) chain that had frozen links. Some of the rolls were empty inside, no lubrication there at all. Where did it go? And how could it go where it did? The rings seemed quite okey.
My theory: I think the extremely penetrating WD40 "helped" to wash the lube away. If I am right, I could, with the proper lubricant, get some lubricant back to where it should be - behind the rubber rings, inside the rolls etc. Whatever letter the rubber rings have. Or even better, refrain from washing the original lube away by not using too much WD40. That's my two cents..
WD40 does not stay on your chain - if you drive faster than 20 mph - it will fling off to your rim - together with the OEM grease your chain had behind the rubber rings.
 

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Salt is unlikely to be an issue unless you put on a lot of winter miles. The first few heavy rains in spring wash away salt residue from pavement. Salt will act as a catalyst for rust. A more likely cause is incorrect setting of chain slack (too tight?) or missalignment of rear wheel.

Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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Salt is unlikely to be an issue unless you put on a lot of winter miles. The first few heavy rains in spring wash away salt residue from pavement. Salt will act as a catalyst for rust. A more likely cause is incorrect setting of chain slack (too tight?) or missalignment of rear wheel.
The OP (CmdrPopNFresh) just did a ride thru northern BC, the Yukon and Alaska, which is where he got "into" the chloride wrecking his chain....
 

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The OP (CmdrPopNFresh) just did a ride thru northern BC, the Yukon and Alaska, which is where he got "into" the chloride wrecking his chain....
Why does the chloride get into the chain and wrecking it, when WD40 can't get past the o-rings? Just curious...::yeahsmile:

I had to correct myself in an earlier posting in this thread: I wrote that WD40 is extremely protruding, but the right word should off course be penetrating. English is not my mother tongue...☺☺☺
 
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