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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2005 ninja 250 and it won't start. It cranks up but it just won't turn over. I charged the battery fully over night and tried to start it but that's not the issue. I changed the oil with 10w40 full synthetic oil. I tried to jump start it off of another cars battery and that also didn't work. Since i had been trying to avoid it as much as possible I went for a full carb cleaning and cleaned everything by taking it apart not just running cleaner through the tank. The carbs were fairly clean but went and did it just to make sure. I put them back in and tried to start it and it turned over immediately and started but only ran for maybe half of a second. Then today I tried to start it with no success. I honestly don't know where else to check. I have checked the spark plugs and got a good 12v shock haha but i didnt see any spark. The only thing that is weird is they shouldn't have to be replaced yet because it only has 5500 miles on the bike total. Any advice for me would help. Thanks in advance. Im also probably forgetting something... :confused:


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It's a common problem with Ninja 250. It's a bit lean to start with, and the pilot jets can get clogged, especially after sitting with regular ethanol gas. A Dynojet carb jet kit cured a friend's lean low end and rich top end perfectly as well... Did you use good carb cleaner, and did you remove the pilot jets to clean and blow them and the fuel circuits out? You could also remove the brass plugs to access your pilot fuel adjustment screws to add a bit of fuel. You're trying with the enrichener ('choke') and fuel tap on with new gas in the tank?
 

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The Ninja250 forums are a great place - there's a lot of experienced ninja 250 riders there, and a great FAQ - When I had a pair of Ninja 250's, I know it was a great resource...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I used the berryman's b12 cleaner to clean the carbs and I am using fresh gas. I did remove the jets to clean them also. I have taken the gas tank off for easier access and have been feeding gas straight into the fuel line. Yes I am trying with the choke on a few times and then off. Could it be the mixture ratio? And as far as fuel circuit what do you mean?


I have been reading through the 250 faq a lot also they have been a tremendous amount of help.



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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I soaked them in the cleaner I didn't blow through with compressed air but don't feel like that would be an issue if they are cleaned thoroughly and yes I did spray the passages several times.

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Once you remove the pilot jets (and main jets), you can soak the jets and the passage behind the jets (fuel circuits) with carb cleaner for a while, then blow them out with compressed air... Careful to not change float bowl level. They are a bit tricky to adjust.

You can also drill the pilot ful adjustment screw blockoff brass plug to remove it (one per carb on bottom,and open the screw a bit more to add fuel through the pilot jet circuit.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Removing_idle_mixture_screw_plugs
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Alright so I should just make it run more richer? I wasn't aware that ninja 250 run lean. I already have removed the plugs for access to the screws. So just play around with it a little until it fires up?

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Yeah. How many turns open are they at? Do not tighten screw once seated, then count turns out counterclockwise. Set them both equally, then try an extra 1/4 turn at a time until you find the sweet spot. They should normally be set to about 1/4 turn more than the position that gives you the highest idle rpm. Also, normal warmed up idle should be set to 1300 rpm.
 

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How is the condition of the rubber diaphragms? If they are cracked or not seated properly, it could ruin the vacuum condition. It would be good to check the fuel tank ventilation by opening up the fuel cover and close it back. Occurrences of blocked vents have been noted by quite a number of owners.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah. How many turns open are they at? Do not tighten screw once seated, then count turns out counterclockwise. Set them both equally, then try an extra 1/4 turn at a time until you find the sweet spot. They should normally be set to about 1/4 turn more than the position that gives you the highest idle rpm. Also, normal warmed up idle should be set to 1300 rpm.
The screws are 2.5 turns out I guess that I may need to adjust them some more.

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Discussion Starter #11
How is the condition of the rubber diaphragms? If they are cracked or not seated properly, it could ruin the vacuum condition. It would be good to check the fuel tank ventilation by opening up the fuel cover and close it back. Occurrences of blocked vents have been noted by quite a number of owners.
The rubber diaphragms are in good condition. And how would the vent be blocked? Like with what?

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Yes I soaked them in the cleaner I didn't blow through with compressed air but don't feel like that would be an issue if they are cleaned thoroughly and yes I did spray the passages several times.

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you have not said, or maybe I missed it.
But, has the motorbike been sitting with fuel in the tank/carb for a while?

If so, pilot jets ARE STILL SUSPECT, even if you cleaned, soaked, or otherwise.
If you did not blow them out with compressed air, you cannot be sure they are flowing properly.

Maybe it might be better to go to the dealer and order new pilot jet, then install the NEW.

you state younhave spark, but did not see it at the plugs.

To fire, you need spark, air, and fuel.

And of course, it has to be ENOUGH to make it happen.
To run smoothly, you need the PROPER AMOUNTS of each.

Spark may be too weak, pull out your maintenance manual and measure the strength.
Fuel, do you SMELL FUEL when trying to start. Excess fuel should keep being drawn into the engine even if it does not fire. This should at least be enough to start the motorbike IF the spark is strong enough to fire, AND IF enough air is being processed.

What the vent comment refers to, is prolly your gas tank/fuel tap venting.
If you pull the fuel line from the carb, turn it on, does it flow well?
If not, open the fuel cap to the fuel tank, does the fuel flow well now?

If not, move your fuel tap position. I do not know what the specifics are for fuel tap on your motorbike, but the basics are the same for most.

AIR....--FUEL.......SPARK.....all basics, you gotta make sure you have each.

Let us know, but if motorbike has been sitting, my bet is the PILOT JET.
 

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I owned a carbed Ninja once. Everything that's been said about the carbs is good info. Those pilot jets are tiny. You gotta make sure you can see daylight through them. When you look though, if the hole doesn't look round, that's a good indication there's a particle in there. Even a tiny particle will cause poor idle and start. Unfortunately, what appears to be a visually clean carb can no longer be trusted. Gone are the days of obvious visual varnishing. Ethanol eats away at the aluminum and it will loosen tiny particles that can plug the jet or the passage in the carb. I take care of a fleet of almost 200 training bikes. I see this on a regular basis. You have to remove the jet and the mixture screw and spray them out with carb cleaner. Many times you have to run a tiny wire through the jet to break the obstruction free. Leave nothing to assumption.

Now the other 250 Ninja problem. Most of them suffer from tightening valves, particularly the exhaust valves. Tightening valves will give symptoms of a carb problem. It sneaks up on you too. If you are looking at clean carbs for the 2nd or 3rd time, check your valve clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey guys just an update. I have got the bike to run for maybe 3 or 4 seconds.. It starts then revs up to about 4k then dies. I am thinking this is a fuel starvation issue but I am not sure. How should I approach this?

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Hey guys just an update. I have got the bike to run for maybe 3 or 4 seconds.. It starts then revs up to about 4k then dies. I am thinking this is a fuel starvation issue but I am not sure. How should I approach this?

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Does the 250 have a vacuum petcock? My KLR failed like your bike the vacuum line got half left off. If there's no vacuum on the petcock it will not flow fuel to the motor.
 

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Also, make sure you have no vacuum leak at carb flanges, hoses and fittings, etc, and that your throttle valves are not open more than they should at idle position.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alright the bike is starting every time now! I let it idle for a little bit and then it very very slowly starts to lower the rpms to where it can't run and stalls and dies. Also another thing I'd like to mention is that when at idle I try to give throttle but it just dies. Not gradually just kills it then and there. Valve adjustment? Im in the process of syncing the carbs to see if that is the issue.

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Valve adjustment and carb synch would help, but you still have a significant lack of fuel and/or excess of air/vacuum leak.
 
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