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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I received my new 16 tooth sprocket today and attempted to install it. I assumed the sprocket nut would be a metric size. I attempted to use a 27mm socket I had on hand and it doesn't seem to fit as tight as I would like. I was afraid that I would strip the nut. Does anyone know what size socket is required for this nut. I saw elsewhere that a 1 1/16 inch socket had been used. Is this the ticket or is a 26mm what is needed.
 

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I only had a 1 1/16 and I was thinking it was a little big, but that is the best one I hear, you can read the thread the good 16 tooth sprocket and I asked for advice in there and thats what I got...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I attempted to use the 27 mm 12pt socket and it slipped on the nut. I think a 6pt would work better. I going to buy or borrow a 1 1/16 6pt today and try again. I hate when a 15 min job ends up being a pain in the ass
 

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1-1/16" 6 point will not slip! The metric would be fine if 6 point but I have the 12pt which will round off the nut.
 

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I concur on the 6pt, do not use a 12pt! Particularly if you are using an impact wrench.

Wardo
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One tight nut

I have never in my life found a nut to be on so tight. A 27mm 6pt did the trick with a bunch of torque. When it finally let go I was afraid something had broken with on the bike. The new sprocket fits tight with very little clearance but seems to work well. I haven't tried it on the highway yet.


 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I rode around the neighborhood and did not notice any more noise than the stock setup. I also really didn't notice any significant loss of performance due to the taller overall gear ratio.
 

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I installed the 16t damped ZX6 sprocket. No problems and seems to work well. The bike does lose a bit of "snap", but there is plenty left. One question:

The manual says that there is an outside and an inside to the sprocket and that the sprocket is labeled. The sprocket I installed had no label, and it looked symmetric to me. Has anyone addressed this? Thanks -- Hank.
 

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I have never in my life found a nut to be on so tight.
Holy cow, you are right! I have a decent-but-inexpensive 1/2" electric impact wrench and it will not move the nut. I tried making the longest breaker bar of my life and it still will not move the nut. The piece of wood blocking the rear wheel to the swingarm is starting to break, though.

This IS a right-hand thread, correct?

Short of finding someone with an air impact wrench, are there any suggestions out there on how to get this sucker off? I am very hesitant to apply heat to the nut because its shape is important to the sensor.

TIA
d
 

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Holy cow, you are right! I have a decent-but-inexpensive 1/2" electric impact wrench and it will not move the nut. I tried making the longest breaker bar of my life and it still will not move the nut. The piece of wood blocking the rear wheel to the swingarm is starting to break, though.

This IS a right-hand thread, correct?

Short of finding someone with an air impact wrench, are there any suggestions out there on how to get this sucker off? I am very hesitant to apply heat to the nut because its shape is important to the sensor.

TIA
d
It is right hand thread, and it is on there tight. I used an air impact wrench, and it did not come off willingly. IMHO, it was way tighter than 92 ft lbs. Kept the bike in first gear, used the impact wrench, and all was good.

Bike runs great. A nice farkle. -- Hank.
 

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...Kept the bike in first gear, used the impact wrench, and all was good. ...
Seems like that would multiply the torque to the rear wheel, no? I would think shifting into 5th or 6th would give you the least torque multiplication to the rear wheel - which is what you want if you're blocking it to stop the shaft from moving.

That 90 ft pounds x 4.xx or 5.xx (what ever the first gear ratio is) and you could be putting 360-450 ft lbs of torque on the rear wheel.
 

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I didn't block the rear wheel at all. By keeping the bike in first gear, I had maximum resistance derived from the motor's compression. With an impact wrench, that works fine. If I had a used a breaker bar, I would have had to block the rear wheel. Still, though, first gear provides maximum resistance.

To see this, put your bike in sixth gear and try to push it and turn over the engine and move the bike. Now put it in first gear and try the same thing. You can't move a thing.


Seems like that would multiply the torque to the rear wheel, no? I would think shifting into 5th or 6th would give you the least torque multiplication to the rear wheel - which is what you want if you're blocking it to stop the shaft from moving.

That 90 ft pounds x 4.xx or 5.xx (what ever the first gear ratio is) and you could be putting 360-450 ft lbs of torque on the rear wheel.
 

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I put it in neutral and blocked the wheel with the swingarm, that way no load on the transmission, just wheel and chain.

I used, like a 40" cheater pipe while making sure the socket stayed square with nut and used a 6 point 1-1/16". IT WAS TIGHT!
 

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So am I to understand that the nut unscrews in a clockwise rotation. In other words, unscrews to the right and tightens to the left?
 

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Why mess with the front sprocket. I put on a 44t rear and it was not only a simple swap it is the perfect gearing for this bike. (IMHO)
 
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