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Hi all I just bought a V650, 2017 Get 3 model, 10k miles on the odo when I bought it, bone stock except it came with the Kawi OEM top case bracket, no top case though :(

Since I bought it from the dealership, have ridden it for about 600 miles. I changed the engine oil (although it wasn't that dirty) , changed out slightly worn very squeaky OEM brake pads for EBC HH sintered, installed a set of T-Rex front crash cage, installed LED light bulbs. Otherwise just been enjoying the bike.

Really like the bike so far, super comfortable coming from a Ninja 300, and love how nimble it is even vs. the Ninja.

However a couple of things I noticed, just wanted to get everyone's thoughts on:

1. I'm hearing a slight but noticeable ticking noise coming from the engine (most audible from the left side), mostly after the bike is warmed up to operating temperature. I changed the oil and added in the seafoam to a tank of gas to see if that'll quiet it down a bit, but so far still there. I checked the exhaust manifold bolts, they seem tight. Before looking into valve clearance (although at 10k miles is that normally an issue?), I think I want to check to see if the CCT is the culprit here. I've searched the forum came across various different answers, but wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts. If I were to try the one click method of tightening the cam chains, would that hurt the bike if it turned out not to be the issue? I guess it would just whine and I can just reset the CCT after that right?

2. The radiator fan turns on very frequently, every 4-5 mins if I'm idling and bike is sitting, for approximately 15-20 secs or so. Do I need a radiator flush or is that normal for the V650?

3. Idle sometimes is unstable, I would set it for ~1250rpm when warm but then sometimes when I come to a stop at a light or stop sign, bike would idle at 1500 or go down to 1100 in first. It's happening much less since I added the seafoam but maybe that's just wishful thinking. Not sure if anyone else have experienced this.

4. Engine seem to only like >3000 rpm in anything but first gear. It would lug if I'm below that range at any gear above 1st. Even when starting from stop on 1st gear, engine seem to struggle a bit if I'm not revving it up a slight bit more and feathering the clutch. Bike performs well >3000 though, no issues above that it seems.

Anyways apologies for the long post, but figure I get these all out of the way.

Safe riding everyone!
 

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2019 Kawasaki Versys 650 LT
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Welcome to the forum. Have you checked your coolant level? I don't experience cycling of the fan as you do, I'd change it as you don't know the history. I'm sure the more seasoned owners will chime in on your issues. The engine preforms better at 5K and up, 3K is in the lugging range. The valves need to be adjusted at 15K but if previous owner was wringing the bikes neck all the time it may need to be looked at along with syncing the throttle bodies. I have a 2019 at around 13K and don't have any issues as yours
 

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2015 V650 here.

Flush the coolant and switch to Engine Ice. See if that helps the fan cycling. Mine rarely runs except in quite warm weather. It might be normal for extended idling to cycle on like that.

Unstable idle is not normal once warmed up. I would check throttle cable adjustment, and if that is ok then unplug and replug the throttle position sensor. Make sure it is properly adjusted. It should have a paint mark from the factory. Some owners mess with the sensor trying to fix your lugging problem.

Look on this forum for threads on the Shoodaben flash. The factory ECU program is pretty bad on the gen3. They run poorly below 3000 rpm, with herky jerky throttle and engine stumbles. Steve's flash will transform your bike!

I don't think valves should need adjusting yet. But you might benefit from a new air filter and spark plugs.
 

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3K is a range on the 650 that is to be avoided like Axel says. Its better with the flash but bike doesnt do well there anyways. 5k to 7k is good range and shifts better I find at 7Kish. Ticking noises...welcome to the 649cc! I use earplugs now. The mufflers quiet and you hear all kinds of ticking and it can drive you nuts if you listen. The fan...should come on at idle after a while as there's no airflow cooling. Cycling on and off, cant say I noticed that as long as it comes on . Agree with Fly-Sig, start with replacing the coolant and that Engine ice is Death Valley racing level coolant!. Idle speed fluctuating.. 1250 is too low for me. I've set my idle at 1450k for solid electrics charging at stoplight for instance. Doesn't affect the clunk from N to 1st and others have done the same. Sometimes on my 2015 Ill come to a stop and the bike while in gear will be idling higher. Put the bike in neutral and it comes back down immediately. Known little idiosyncrasy for the 2015(maybe other Gen 3s), I think the load while in gear tricks the ECU. Also I found with heated grips on high the plastic throttle housing can be sticky as it expands from the heat. Found that on a VStrom site! Squirt some cable cleaner in the throttle cables is always good maintenance. Spray all pivot points for that matter.
 

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Quite a few of us "old-timers" on this FORUM had gone into the engine to 'check' the valves EARLY, and found some TIGHT valves, so I recommend you 'do' your valves EARLY!

On my '08 AZ V650 I 'did' the valves at 20,429 miles, and found ALL FOUR EXHAUST valves TIGHT (.19/ .195/ .18/ .18) on a range of .22-.31mm.

The intakes were .19/ .19/ .15/ .15 on a range of .15-.21mm, so TWO were at the tight-end of the range. I replaced shims THAT time, but as NONE of the factory shims were the size they were supposed to be (I went thru the SERVICE used-shims box, and got the required sizes!!!) I have sanded the shims to the required thickness EVERY check since!

By recollection (so it's just a 'guess') - I did the valves on my '09 and '15 around the 7,000 mile mark.

Good luck.
 

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Sometimes on my 2015 Ill come to a stop and the bike while in gear will be idling higher. Put the bike in neutral and it comes back down immediately. Known little idiosyncrasy for the 2015(maybe other Gen 3s), I think the load while in gear tricks the ECU.
My 2018 does totaly same when I come to a stop, when I am in gear it will be almost 2000rpm, and when I change to neutran than will drop to 1400-1500 rpm.
 

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Hi all I just bought a V650, 2017 Get 3 model, 10k miles on the odo when I bought it, bone stock except it came with the Kawi OEM top case bracket, no top case though :(

Since I bought it from the dealership, have ridden it for about 600 miles. I changed the engine oil (although it wasn't that dirty) , changed out slightly worn very squeaky OEM brake pads for EBC HH sintered, installed a set of T-Rex front crash cage, installed LED light bulbs. Otherwise just been enjoying the bike.

Really like the bike so far, super comfortable coming from a Ninja 300, and love how nimble it is even vs. the Ninja.

However a couple of things I noticed, just wanted to get everyone's thoughts on:

1. I'm hearing a slight but noticeable ticking noise coming from the engine (most audible from the left side), mostly after the bike is warmed up to operating temperature. I changed the oil and added in the seafoam to a tank of gas to see if that'll quiet it down a bit, but so far still there. I checked the exhaust manifold bolts, they seem tight. Before looking into valve clearance (although at 10k miles is that normally an issue?), I think I want to check to see if the CCT is the culprit here. I've searched the forum came across various different answers, but wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts. If I were to try the one click method of tightening the cam chains, would that hurt the bike if it turned out not to be the issue? I guess it would just whine and I can just reset the CCT after that right?

2. The radiator fan turns on very frequently, every 4-5 mins if I'm idling and bike is sitting, for approximately 15-20 secs or so. Do I need a radiator flush or is that normal for the V650?

3. Idle sometimes is unstable, I would set it for ~1250rpm when warm but then sometimes when I come to a stop at a light or stop sign, bike would idle at 1500 or go down to 1100 in first. It's happening much less since I added the seafoam but maybe that's just wishful thinking. Not sure if anyone else have experienced this.

4. Engine seem to only like >3000 rpm in anything but first gear. It would lug if I'm below that range at any gear above 1st. Even when starting from stop on 1st gear, engine seem to struggle a bit if I'm not revving it up a slight bit more and feathering the clutch. Bike performs well >3000 though, no issues above that it seems.

Anyways apologies for the long post, but figure I get these all out of the way.

Safe riding everyone!
I have a 2022 model. And the manual states to check the valve clearance at 8000 miles. Seems like that’s the first thing I would do at your mileage and noise your hearing as of your RPMs this engine prefers to rev. So 3k is low it likes being higher.
 

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I have a 2022 model. And the manual states to check the valve clearance at 8000 miles. Seems like that’s the first thing I would do at your mileage and noise your hearing as of your RPMs this engine prefers to rev. So 3k is low it likes being higher.
My 2018 Versys 650 owners manual state to check valve clearance every 26250 miles, but service guy told me it is to much miles for first valve clearance check and they are doing every 15000 miles (probably from 30+ years of experience).

And this is from service manual for Mk3
I don't understand what is the difference between USA and CA (Canada or California??) with the rest of the world.
Font Rectangle Parallel Number Pattern
 

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My 2018 Versys 650 owners manual state to check valve clearance every 26250 miles, but service guy told me it is to much miles for first valve clearance check and they are doing every 15000 miles (probably from 30+ years of experience).

And this is from service manual for Mk3
I don't understand what is the difference between USA and CA (Canada or California??) with the rest of the world.
View attachment 192144
That is the first time I've seen that -- very interesting!

The CA would certainly be Canada. I would doubt the machines are made differently -- probably some political or corporate "red tape" affecting prescribed service intervals differently 🤔

Are specs different for de-tuned euro models for "lower/entry/beginner" licensed bikes? (Not real familiar, but have seen articles and posts here where there are different licensed for 'full power' bikes ?) I could almost see where de-tuned bikes would have longer service intervals (kind of like a 25hp dual sport vs 50hp dirt bike with same basic engine here in the US ?)

Thanks for the pictures of that manual... very interesting indeed.
 

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...The CA would certainly be Canada. I would doubt the machines are made differently -- probably some political or corporate "red tape" affecting prescribed service intervals differently 🤔....
I would BET that the "CA" is referring to California, since when I bought my '09 in ARIZONA, it was the "CA" model, w/ a carbon canister on the left side (WHICH I PROMPTLY REMOVED!).
 

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I would BET that the "CA" is referring to California, since when I bought my '09 in ARIZONA, it was the "CA" model, w/ a carbon canister on the left side (WHICH I PROMPTLY REMOVED!).
That sounds reasonable 👍🏻

Still seems odd for the maintenance intervals for Europe to be so different...🤔
 

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2019 Kawasaki Versys 650 LT
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@JT in GA
Explanation of the 650L from Wkipedia
In Australia, the Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme (LAMS) is in place for riders on a restricted license during the first period after passing their motorbike test. For this market the Versys 650L is manufactured and sold with output power restrictions put into place using a custom program on the ECU and a screw installed near the throttle wheel on the right-side of the bike which prevents it from fully rotating. The specifications for the Australian LAMS and non-LAMS variants for the 2017 model year are below, but the different RPM measurements should also be noted:[10][11]

ModelKLE650 (KLE650FHF)KLE650L (KLE650FHFW)
Power51 kW @ 8,500 rpm41.3 kW @ 8,000 rpm
Torque64 N.m @ 7,00055 n.m @ 5,500 rpm


So I would think one would either have to replace the ECU or get it flashed and remove the screw


here's some blokes discussing the service change on the versys650 uk forum, still doesn't make sense to me maybe you can get a different read on it

 

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@JT in GA
Explanation of the 650L from Wkipedia
In Australia, the Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme (LAMS) is in place for riders on a restricted license during the first period after passing their motorbike test. For this market the Versys 650L is manufactured and sold with output power restrictions put into place using a custom program on the ECU and a screw installed near the throttle wheel on the right-side of the bike which prevents it from fully rotating. The specifications for the Australian LAMS and non-LAMS variants for the 2017 model year are below, but the different RPM measurements should also be noted:[10][11]

ModelKLE650 (KLE650FHF)KLE650L (KLE650FHFW)
Power51 kW @ 8,500 rpm41.3 kW @ 8,000 rpm
Torque64 N.m @ 7,00055 n.m @ 5,500 rpm


So I would think one would either have to replace the ECU or get it flashed and remove the screw


here's some blokes discussing the service change on the versys650 uk forum, still doesn't make sense to me maybe you can get a different read on it

Thanks !

@Axel Johansson - I really appreciate all the digging up of info you do. You da man and I salute your helpfulness 🇺🇲👍🏻
 

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Hears the deal. California's nuts!
When I retired 12 years abo if you bought a new Echo two stroke it had a stipulation in the owners manual that the carburetor had to be replaced at the owners expense at I think two years to keep the five year warranty in effect in California!
 
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