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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there!

New member here living just out of London in the UK.

Riding a MK1 650 and loving it so far! Works perfect for my daily commute!

I also own a Speed Four that I'm in the process of rebuilding slowly!
 

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Welcome From Canada

:welcome:https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/5-member-introductions/205361-valuable-links-wizard-member-intro.html please read

You need a second post and I will give you a link with some current info you can access right away, after about 50 hours from your second post you then can access far more detail.

Any questions you can ask within this thread.

I will post another within this thread, here is the link;
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/13-member-only-group-rides-other-topics/218489-stator-testing-polaris-4016868-low-h-beams-dead.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm having a couple of electrical issues which is what brings me here! Hoping to try get to the bottom of them! 🙂
 

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Post #7

Check post #7

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/13-member-only-group-rides-other-topics/218489-stator-testing-polaris-4016868-low-h-beams-dead.html

Keep going down and you will see the wiring diagram of the relay box, I have been able to adapt a single pole double throw relay for those with a failed headlight relay, short answer, the 3 phase has a tap going to the headlight relay, left connected to all series regulators causes a 0.036 amp drain 24/7 , the relay uses the start solenoid ( two relays exist for starting, the start relay in the relay box and the start solenoid which carries the 20 amp ) The circuit is unique and also flawed, simply put, the negative coil circuit of the headlight relay goes to the positive start solenoid coil wire, which is why the headlight relay drops out during starting, yes the 36 milliamp for the headlight relay goes to ground through the start solenoid.
 

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Wiring 101

I'm having a couple of electrical issues which is what brings me here! Hoping to try get to the bottom of them! 🙂
There are far more details in the How To Forum, however I doubt you will need to go there. One word of caution, the charging system is wired into the electrical running system, by going directly to the battery, chances are good of overcharging your battery, the regulator on the Versys is fused at 30 amp with the main fuse at the start solenoid. I always recommend to use dielectric grease or my favorite kopr kote https://www.jetlube.com/pages/kopr-koteIND.html , you should check and clean the engine ground and all the frame grounds, FYI the ECU uses several frame grounds only ( yes, no copper wire connection to the negative battery post or tap, the reason is high frequency electrical noise, on my 2015 they are hidden under the seat / gas tank support)
 
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