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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys! Picking up a 2019 Versys 650 soon and couldn't be more excited to get back into the Kawasaki family. My bikes in order of ownership:

2007 Ninja 250R
2008 Ninja 250R
2008 ZX-6R
2005 FZ6
2018 GSX-S750
2018 GSX-S1000F

I got the Versys because I need a bike that can do everything - commuting, light touring, comfortable 2-up riding, sport(y) riding. The Versys fits the bill. Don't need the 1000 power and looking forward to having fun with the 650. Familiar with the 250 p-twins from my Ninja days so the 650 should feel very familiar. The only downside of the Versys 650 is the exhaust/engine sound - it's kind of poop but I'm realizing as my motorcycling career progresses, that's less important to me.

1. Any recommendations on improving the exhaust sound? I'll probably just keep it stock unless there's a good option out there that is not too much louder than stock (not a fan of loud pipes especially on a twin). Also, I'm pretty sensitive to catless exhaust fumes so I don't want to run without a cat. I haven't seen any aftermarket exhausts that have a cat. Maybe modify stock muffler/chamber somehow?

2. I'll definitely be having Steve at Shoodaben Engineering flash the ECU for me - I've heard the fuel cut can be pretty nasty on these bikes.

3. Big fan of SW-Motech's stuff. Crash bars or frame sliders? Why do they offer both?

4. I'm 6'1" 215 lbs - any need to look at shorter/taller windscreens? I'd like to have clean un-buffeted air coming at my helmet. Stock windscreen okay? Madstad seems popular?

5. How are the stock mirrors? Garbage or good enough?

6. Any sprocket changes suggested?

Any other tips or suggestions for me? Thanks and looking forward to many happy miles and posts here at this forum!
 

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Hey guys! Picking up a 2019 Versys 650 soon and couldn't be more excited to get back into the Kawasaki family.

1. Any recommendations on improving the exhaust sound?...
Leave it stock!

3. Big fan of SW-Motech's stuff. Crash bars or frame sliders? Why do they offer both?...
Gives you choices. My vote - crash bars.
 

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4. I'm 6'1" 215 lbs - any need to look at shorter/taller windscreens? I'd like to have clean un-buffeted air coming at my helmet. Stock windscreen okay? Madstad seems popular?....
I'm 5'9" (now...) and the OEM shield works GREAT FOR ME, and I rode across Canada w/ it in '17, 8,668 miles over 25 days.

5. How are the stock mirrors? Garbage or good enough?...
They're GREAT! On the Gen 1 and 2 bikes they were garbage!

...Any other tips or suggestions for me? Thanks and looking forward to many happy miles and posts here at this forum!...
Get a BETTER horn (I have WOLO BAD BOYS on both of mine)

DSC03569 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

raise the front of your seat (to keep from sliding forward)

seat rise1 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

and lower your footpegs!

DSC09212 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

These are EBAY DR650 'pegs w/ motowerk lowering blocks (1.3"). Send me a PM (conversations) if you'd like more pics/info.
 

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I got the Versys because I need a bike that can do everything - commuting, light touring, comfortable 2-up riding, sport(y) riding.
Any other tips or suggestions for me? Thanks and looking forward to many happy miles and posts here at this forum!
Touring and 2-up riding might require proper spring rate for your combined weight. If you are 215, I'm going to guess that you and the passenger fully geared up with a few things in the side bags could easily be 350.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Leave it stock!
Gives you choices. My vote - crash bars.
Thank you!

I'm 5'9" (now...) and the OEM shield works GREAT FOR ME, and I rode across Canada w/ it in '17, 8,668 miles over 25 days.
They're GREAT! On the Gen 1 and 2 bikes they were garbage!
Get a BETTER horn (I have WOLO BAD BOYS on both of mine)
raise the front of your seat (to keep from sliding forward)
and lower your footpegs!
These are EBAY DR650 'pegs w/ motowerk lowering blocks (1.3"). Send me a PM (conversations) if you'd like more pics/info.
Thanks! Why do you say lower the footpegs just curious? I have ready about the seat being slanted forward, yeah. Also have a Marco Tornado for a horn ready to go!

Touring and 2-up riding might require proper spring rate for your combined weight. If you are 215, I'm going to guess that you and the passenger fully geared up with a few things in the side bags could easily be 350.
Oh way more than 350. I'm 215 and my wife is 180. Riding gear 5-10 lbs each. That's already 400+ before side case contents. You think I'd need a different spring for that??
 

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Sprocket change- after tame-ing the FI with Steve’s flash, the resulting power spread makes it easy to change the front sprocket to a 16 tooth for easier cruising at highway speeds. Makes the speedo dead on too! Make Sure you still use a rubber dampened sprocket. JT sprockets has a 16 tooth dampened available on Amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sprocket change- after tame-ing the FI with Steve’s flash, the resulting power spread makes it easy to change the front sprocket to a 16 tooth for easier cruising at highway speeds. Makes the speedo dead on too! Make Sure you still use a rubber dampened sprocket. JT sprockets has a 16 tooth dampened available on Amazon.
Nice - do you lose the off the line grunt though?
 

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Nice - do you lose the off the line grunt though?
No. Especially with the power band starting at 2000 rpms instead of 3000. It will still snatch the front wheel when I whack the throttle in first gear. I actually find first gear more usable now. I don't really do any off road with this bike so I'm not poking along on dirt trails either.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
by the way guys, does anyone know what brand of tires come stock on this bike?
 

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...Why do you say lower the footpegs just curious?....
The 1.3" REALLY opens up the 'rider-triangle', makes your hips AND knees better off!

...by the way guys, does anyone know what brand of tires come stock on this bike?...
DUNLOPS (222 I believe).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Question for you guys - I'm riding it home, it's about a 3.5 hour ride. Engine only has 165 miles on it. Should I be concerned about RPM limits and/or running the engine too long at the same speed??
 

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Welcome aboard and enjoy your ride. Be safe.

Just maintain speed and dont hold high ref for long. Just ride normal.
 

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Question for you guys - I'm riding it home, it's about a 3.5 hour ride. Engine only has 165 miles on it. Should I be concerned about RPM limits and/or running the engine too long at the same speed??
Like FastoMan said, my head mechanic for Kawaski said to not baby it, get up to 8000 RPM but short spurts no longer than 30 seconds, do not ride at a fixed RPM, that is I woul keep it between 4500 to 5500 RPM on the highway, every 10 minutes change it up, drop to 5th ride down around 50 MPH for say 30 minutes at a time, switching between 5th and 6th. Every chance you get , say once a hour , crank it to 8000 RPM in 5th or 6th gear, you are trying to load it down, also use engine braking, keeping the downshifted RPM just under 6000 while engine braking. I was told the motor is broke in at the factory and the final is under 200 KM , so good chance the engine is broke in, when you get home, I would do the oil change and switch to synthetic, many of us use Mobil 1 15/50 , I have 28,000 KM on my 2015 using this oil. FYI that same head mechanic said I could have started with synthetic at 0 KM !!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Like FastoMan said, my head mechanic for Kawaski said to not baby it, get up to 8000 RPM but short spurts no longer than 30 seconds, do not ride at a fixed RPM, that is I woul keep it between 4500 to 5500 RPM on the highway, every 10 minutes change it up, drop to 5th ride down around 50 MPH for say 30 minutes at a time, switching between 5th and 6th. Every chance you get , say once a hour , crank it to 8000 RPM in 5th or 6th gear, you are trying to load it down, also use engine braking, keeping the downshifted RPM just under 6000 while engine braking. I was told the motor is broke in at the factory and the final is under 200 KM , so good chance the engine is broke in, when you get home, I would do the oil change and switch to synthetic, many of us use Mobil 1 15/50 , I have 28,000 KM on my 2015 using this oil. FYI that same head mechanic said I could have started with synthetic at 0 KM !!
So the first oil change should be with synthetic? I was planning on using the OEM Kawasaki conventional oil for the first change.
 

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With 3.5 hours of riding, if you follow what I said, similar to the moto man break in MotoMan engine break-in...anyone tried it?

FYI I have a extremely good dealer in Delhi Ontario, they are a Yamaha and Kawasaki dealer, Kawasaki approached them. After my first service I returned the Kawasaki oil and bought the filters instead, OEM Filter within $3 of Walmart crap.I have run Mobil 1 15/50 in my 07 Versys and now my 2015, transmission will like it. Look for posts by Invader on oil, he is top notch.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks guys. I'm actually just going to trailer it home for other reasons too. The MotoMan method is fine and all but I'm more concerned about running the engine at the same RPM for too long, which isn't really talked about as much when it comes to break in.
 

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Your call, wait for Fasteddie , he has done 3 Versys, me 2 Versys . The key is not to baby it or slug along at or below 4000 RPM. The biggest difference you will encounter is the change in the gear box once you go synthetic. Like I said, the first 100 miles or KM the motor is broke in.The other thing to consider would be you would need a means of lubing the chain at least once on 3.5 hour ride. Engine braking is important in seating the rings, I will say, my head mechanic ( trained by Kawasaki ) told me he would know if I babied it , or ran at a fixed RPM. When in doubt trailering is good, hopefully you have a motorcycle specific trailer. I rented one form UHaul , with the wheel chalk , as it was freezing rain and salted roads when I picked my 2015 up in February 2016.
 

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I "broke-in" all THREE of my V650s on the ride home from the dealer - about 50 miles using the "motoman" procedure, then changed oil when I got home.

IF I was doing it again - I would do the SAME "break-in", but then I'd go DIRECTLY to Mobil1 15w-50 synthetic oil when I drained the OEM oil/ filter at 50 miles, rather than waiting till 1,000 miles as I've done previously!

...Question for you guys - I'm riding it home, it's about a 3.5 hour ride. Engine only has 165 miles on it. Should I be concerned about RPM limits and/or running the engine too long at the same speed??...
Read this:


then follow his examples for break-in (as I have done for YEARS!).
 
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