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Hello everyone, Versys 650 here. Just replaced my spark plugs for the first time at 12k odo (local motorcycle shop), as the manual says. Immediately after I can notice the “improved” power within city riding. But when I had a 2 hour ride in the highway there’s this NEW engine vibration starting around 3k rpm! Power is good. What could be the cause, problem? Thanks 😊
 

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i replaced the sparkplug for the first time at 100k for no reason and saw no change.
So I don't believe much that 12k made such a difference...

The shop might have touched something else. Could be as simple as they adjusted chain slack and it's letting chain kinks sound stronger. Also check that the front sprocket nut isn't loose. That can happen.

Maybe they also adjusted the throttle cable slack... or replaced or cleaned the air filter a bit?

Tire pressure too low can lead to cupping and vibration would appear with time.

a) Is it correlated to rpms or speed? (coast with clutch pulled to drop at 1300rpms)
b) is it worst if you lean/counterweight? (wheel bearings damage, but at 12k that would be some unexpected seal dammage and bearings rust)

more testing required.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank You for replying. I was there the whole time. He did not do anything else i’m sure of that, except only air pressure spraying the air filter. The air filter was just replaced at 10k odo, so its just running 2k now. How can that cause the vibration?

Yes, its correlated with higher rpms.
 

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How many HPs did you gain? what, you don't know? Hehe! I'm teasing but the lack of measure is important to note in this case. Had the air filter been changed/cleaned, theory suggests a power gain (though too much air is another issue, just like mismatched mufflers), but perceptible by human? Probably not. I don't mean that the air filter is involved in vibrations. So let's forget the unverified power gain tangent and assume the old spark plugs were really bad.

Ok, so whether its in 1st gear or 6th gear, 3000 rpms has this new vibration.
So that clears the chain, sprocket, tire cupping or bad bearings hypotheses.

Where do you feel it? handlebars? seat? tighs on the tank? knees? feet? or just sound?
What year is this bike?
Any new stuff under the seat that could be rattling?
Any loose nut? Was the airbox and tank reinstalled correctly?

Could still be the nut between the handlebar and the seat...
 

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Well I learn something new every day, two Versys, a 07 now a 2015, both with over 30,000 KM and original plugs, both with valve shim check and TB sync done. To get at the plugs, several things need disconnecting. The MK-3 has everything tight, connectors and vacuum hoses are short and some have cracked . One thing that has cropped up is harness connectors failing Signal lights not working . As I have suggested many times before, check your frame grounds, the ECU depends on them. Are you sure the air box is fastened properly and the IAP sensor is plugged in correctly? Did you use dielectric grease on the stick coils ? Very easy to appear seated on the plugs but not be. Have fun, myself I would be checking the main and subthrottle sensors with a digital meter, making sure the settings are correct. As to plugs, they are a electrical device, both my 07 and 2015 have dielectric grease around the stick coils, this serves two purposes, moisture barrier and prevent carbon tracking, plus the added benefit of easy installation and removal, you need to know what you are doing, as once carbon tracking occurs , no way of reversing it, the temperature of a spark is hotter than the surface of the Sun.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How many HPs did you gain? what, you don't know? Hehe! I'm teasing but the lack of measure is important to note in this case. Had the air filter been changed/cleaned, theory suggests a power gain (though too much air is another issue, just like mismatched mufflers), but perceptible by human? Probably not. I don't mean that the air filter is involved in vibrations. So let's forget the unverified power gain tangent and assume the old spark plugs were really bad.

Ok, so whether its in 1st gear or 6th gear, 3000 rpms has this new vibration.
So that clears the chain, sprocket, tire cupping or bad bearings hypotheses.

Where do you feel it? handlebars? seat? tighs on the tank? knees? feet? or just sound?
What year is this bike?
Any new stuff under the seat that could be rattling?
Any loose nut? Was the airbox and tank reinstalled correctly?

Could still be the nut between the handlebar and the seat...
Felt in the handle bars, foot pegs, the whole bike actually. Been riding it for more than a year now. Brand new 2019 model. 12k odo and I’m familiar with its riding feel, one would know something is different. The vibrations is new, after the new plugs. Noted starting around 4K rpms, even when idle and not moving. Yes, will be going back to the shop. The mechanic already informed. Will be reviewing all your inputs. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I learn something new every day, two Versys, a 07 now a 2015, both with over 30,000 KM and original plugs, both with valve shim check and TB sync done. To get at the plugs, several things need disconnecting. The MK-3 has everything tight, connectors and vacuum hoses are short and some have cracked . One thing that has cropped up is harness connectors failing Signal lights not working . As I have suggested many times before, check your frame grounds, the ECU depends on them. Are you sure the air box is fastened properly and the IAP sensor is plugged in correctly? Did you use dielectric grease on the stick coils ? Very easy to appear seated on the plugs but not be. Have fun, myself I would be checking the main and subthrottle sensors with a digital meter, making sure the settings are correct. As to plugs, they are a electrical device, both my 07 and 2015 have dielectric grease around the stick coils, this serves two purposes, moisture barrier and prevent carbon tracking, plus the added benefit of easy installation and removal, you need to know what you are doing, as once carbon tracking occurs , no way of reversing it, the temperature of a spark is hotter than the surface of the Sun.
Thank You for your inputs Sir! All noted. Will be presenting these to the mechanic:)
 

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This will be a silly comment but what if you were running on a single piston before that... ?
Certainly would explain the power gain and new vibration (rocking couple of parallel twin)!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This will be a silly comment but what if you were running on a single piston before that... ?
Certainly would explain the power gain and new vibration (rocking couple of parallel twin)!
Sir, just started riding a motorcycle for a year now. This Versys is my first. What I’m trying to say is I would know the difference between before and after the plug change of my bike if I’ve been riding this for almost everyday :) I’m no expert on motorcycles, that’s why I’m asking your help and the inputs of everyone here. Thanks :)
 

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Sir, just started riding a motorcycle for a year now. This Versys is my first. What I’m trying to say is I would know the difference between before and after the plug change of my bike if I’ve been riding this for almost everyday :) I’m no expert on motorcycles, that’s why I’m asking your help and the inputs of everyone here. Thanks :)
That fits with getting the 2nd piston finally working.
 

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In my Mazda P5 (which my wife MOSTLY drives), she informed me that the 'cruise-control' wasn't holding speed going uphill (as it HAD before), so I 'pulled' the plugs [WHICH LOOKED FINE to the naked eye!] and replaced them, and the performance came back.

The REASON I mention this is that, over the years - MANY members have 'poo-pooed' changing plugs at Kawi's recommended intervals, because they "LOOK LIKE NEW" - and I have always changed them when 'doing' my valves.

The experience w/ the Mazda showed me that YOU CAN'T TELL MUCH ABOUT THE LATEST TYPE OF SPARK PLUGS BY LOOKING AT THEM...!

:cool:
 

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In my Mazda P5 (which my wife MOSTLY drives), she informed me that the 'cruise-control' wasn't holding speed going uphill (as it HAD before), so I 'pulled' the plugs [WHICH LOOKED FINE to the naked eye!] and replaced them, and the performance came back.

The REASON I mention this is that, over the years - MANY members have 'poo-pooed' changing plugs at Kawi's recommended intervals, because they "LOOK LIKE NEW" - and I have always changed them when 'doing' my valves.

The experience w/ the Mazda showed me that YOU CAN'T TELL MUCH ABOUT THE LATEST TYPE OF SPARK PLUGS BY LOOKING AT THEM...!

:cool:
Agreed. I read many different bike forums throughout the day and cant tell you how many times someone has had an issue with something suddenly feeling or running weird and sworn the 'plugs look perfect' or 'they only have 10k miles on them' or 'they are iridium plugs, they are good for 10's of thousands of miles' and reluctant to change them or even consider the possibility.

Just an update- Reading the FZ09 forum yesterday, guy installs brand new plugs and the bike runs fine until it warms up and gets on the road, it starts running rough and wont get much past 7k rpm, like hitting a wall. The bike does this repeatedly for a few days.
After much forum consultation and troubleshooting he decides to put the old plugs back in and go for a ride, sure enough the bike runs smooth as silk at all rpm's.
 

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Agreed. I read many different bike forums throughout the day and cant tell you how many times someone has had an issue with something suddenly feeling or running weird and sworn the 'plugs look perfect' or 'they only have 10k miles on them' or 'they are iridium plugs, they are good for 10's of thousands of miles' and reluctant to change them or even consider the possibility.

Just an update- Reading the FZ09 forum yesterday, guy installs brand new plugs and the bike runs fine until it warms up and gets on the road, it starts running rough and wont get much past 7k rpm, like hitting a wall. The bike does this repeatedly for a few days.
After much forum consultation and troubleshooting he decides to put the old plugs back in and go for a ride, sure enough the bike runs smooth as silk at all rpm's.
Only the center electrode on Iridium NGK spark plugs is iridium. It's the ground electrode that wears quickly and rounds off... Also, the spark plugs fire at every TDC on Versys 650.

The 147,000 km FZ09 had stock copper plugs with 10,000 kms on them... One spark plug had gone bad.

 

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Hello everyone, Versys 650 here. Just replaced my spark plugs for the first time at 12k odo (local motorcycle shop), as the manual says. Immediately after I can notice the “improved” power within city riding. But when I had a 2 hour ride in the highway there’s this NEW engine vibration starting around 3k rpm! Power is good. What could be the cause, problem? Thanks 😊
How's your drive chain?
 

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If the plugs on my 15 650 werent such a PITA to get to I would change them every year. Best plugs I could get, performance money well spent.If the gas tank comes off the plugs get changed!
 

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You need to vacuum synchronize your throttle bodies, preferably after a valve clearance inspection/adjustment... Make sure all vacuum hoses and connections are good while in there.

Which petrol octane level are you burning?
 

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If the gas tank comes off the plugs get changed!
I find the airbox/breather tube removal/installation to be the pita (especially with the risk of dropping a screw in the intake); the tank is a breeze in comparison.
Tip for the airbox screws: aside from plugging both intakes with balled up small plastic bags, stick a magnet near your screwdriver's head.

You need to vacuum synchronize your throttle bodies,
I've always read the throttle body sync (TBS) was only relevant for idle, not once the butterflies are opened, like here at 3000+ rpms.
 

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Did they lubricate the muffler bearings when they changed the spark plugs?
That will do it every time.o_O
 

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Have the exact same issue at 4-5rpms
Throttle body sync done. New plugs.
etc. dealer can’t figure it out. Been trying for one year. If you do, please let me know!
 
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