What are the break in procedues ?
I'm a KLR guy and rememberer something keep revs under 4k for 500 miles
Is the Versys the same ?
What about stator output ?,,can you run heated gear ?,,Aux Lights ?
How could they possibly know whether or not the procedure was followed?I highly recommend you follow the break in instructions in your manual.
Failure to do so may cost you if there is a warranty issue that crops up.
How could they possibly know whether or not the procedure was followed?
The way my dealership explained things to me, don't lug it and don't wring it out for the first 500 miles. Fasteddie has a 50 mile procedure that seems to have served him well.
Both of the videos (from fairly reputable sources) say that the whole break in thing with modern manufacturing is essentially bunk.
But, I mean, you aren't hurting anything by following any particular procedure... Kind of like going to church when you don't believe in a god, right?
Odd that you take offense to my opinion. Might want to look into that.Tell you what, I will follow my manuals when I buy MY new bike with MY money and leave the internet advice to others. If this bothers you for some reason then that is your problem. No one here pays my bills or service fees.
First, yes there is lots of controversy, you mention your bike your money, as in you took offense and imply your way is the right way and also the manual says so. Well there are mistakes in the manual, follow the valve shim instructions and you may destroy your engine, go after Kawasaki because they made a mistake in the manual. Oh , us riders shouldn't be doing that work, wrong, history for me using dealer mechanics, usually the bike comes back missing bolts, improperly torqued bolts, not running the way it should. There is a exception, my 2015 dealer is in Delhi Ontario, 100 KM from me , if they moved 300 KM farther I would still deal with them when there is a dealer within 20 KM of me, won't discuss or mention the name of that dealer, I won't even buy parts from them.Tell you what, I will follow my manuals when I buy MY new bike with MY money and leave the internet advice to others. If this bothers you for some reason then that is your problem. No one here pays my bills or service fees.
FWIW - after using the Motoman break-in (Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power) on the ride home from the dealer where I'd JUST taken possession of a NEW V650 (THREE times - an '08, an '09, and a '15) then changed oil and filter when I got home (after about 50 MILES each time), I have about 173,522 trouble-free miles on that V650 engine: 88,3xx miles on the '08; 62,790kms [39,016miles] on the '09 when it was an insurance write-off in '15; and 74,361 kms [46,206 miles] on my '15....I will use Fasteddie as a example, 3 Kawasaki Versys , MK-1 to MK-3 all done the same way, my 2007 and 2015 the same, many others here. Nothing worse than trying to ride in a 100 KM / HR zone and following the manual, not possible to reach 100 KM/HR at 4000 RPM Nothing like a hazard on the road. Anyway my bike my money and my way of doing things....
As in the title, however I will qualify a couple things. One just recently changed, the oil change interval , now 12000 KM between oil changes https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1638695-post10.html.I have 26,000 miles (41,000 KM) on my bike and it runs great, just like it did when new. I followed the break in process in the shop manual. I change my oil every 2000 miles and I use Kawasaki 10W40 motor oil. I have owned lots of bikes. One thing that I have found as a constant with bikes and with guns is some people always think they no better than the people, the engineers, that design their own products. Following other's advice has cost me dearly in the past. That is why I stick with what the manufacturer recommends when I pay thousands of dollars for a product.
I spent decades as a professional engine builder. This is very close to the method I ended up using for many of the years, once I wasn't afraid of premature explosions .:surprise: The only real difference is that I give increasing amounts of throttle, to full therottle, but keep the rpms below redline. the coast down and hard engine braking to pull the rings up and bed the rings to hold higher vacuum and control oil. The hard pulls always start at an rpm high enough to ensure that there was sufficient oil pressure. On this 650 engine, I would start the hard accelss at about 4000 rpm and shut down at 8000 rpm. over and over. That's how I broke in my 2015 v650. when I had done that until I felt I had sufficiently bedded the rings it was full WFO throttle and never looking back. My bike ran great.The whole break-in process is a hold over from when manufacturing tolerances were ‘about there should do’ and dino oil was best one could get. These days it is more about the rider learning the bike and lawyers trying to reduce liability.
Personally, I’d warm up the engine by riding conservatively for about 10 min, then ride it “like I stole it” for an hour or so. Hard acceleration and engine braking, with many full throttle pulls to the red line. Then change the oil and filter, using full synthetic MA2 rated oil (like Motul 7100) and a good filter. Also add a magnet to the oil drain plug while it is out.
Then enjoy a healthy engine that runs strong and clean.