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My chain was loose and slappy so I tightened it. I think I'm within spec but there are several tight areas in the chain and I can hear some chain noise as well as rubbing on the plastic guides in the front.

I had the bike on a rear stand and put it in first, the chain is floating slightly left on the sprocket so I'll adjust later to make sure that isn't the source of the noise. I see a lot of bouncing on an otherwise stable bike.

I washed the chain, got all of the old lube off, and relubed with no difference. I don't see anything abnormal on the sprocket either, nor any obvious chain damage. I do ride a lot at max speed when traveling, and usually very hard at a high RPM when in daily traffic for the response when it is needed.

I have the warranty for my bike, are these parts covered? Can I ride it the 30 minutes to the dealership for a fix if it is covered?

I'm assuming for a DIY chain swap I'll need a 520 chain, a 44t rear sprocket that I planned on, and a chain link tool. Anything else? Any favorite brands? I'd like to do new pads and a better rotor if it's recommended too.
 

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...I have the warranty for my bike, are these parts covered? Can I ride it the 30 minutes to the dealership for a fix if it is covered?....
No - normal wear items.

...I think I'm within spec but there are several tight areas in the chain....
It's probably toast once it has 'tight' spots. Probably not lubed often enough....

I had the bike on a rear stand and put it in first, the chain is floating slightly left on the sprocket so I'll adjust later to make sure that isn't the source of the noise. I see a lot of bouncing on an otherwise stable bike....
Check your rear wheel alignment (Motion Pro makes a great tool for around $15), as the 'marks' on the swingarm are USUALLY not perfect, side-to-side.

...I washed the chain, got all of the old lube off, and relubed with no difference....
Often it's NOT a good idea to "wash" your chain, as this can remove lubricant that should stay there.

...I'm assuming for a DIY chain swap I'll need a 520 chain, a 44t rear sprocket that I planned on, and a chain link tool. Anything else? Any favorite brands? I'd like to do new pads and a better rotor if it's recommended too.
You'll need the "520 chain, a rear sprocket and a chain link tool". Just buy a good brand, then keep it lubed!

:goodluck:
 

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What about a front sprocket?
 

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10k miles out of original chain is about normal for a low cost bike. That's all I get.

However, replace with a good quality chain and keep it clean and lubed. Do NOT use gas (petrol) or degreaser to clean the chain. Kerosene (parafin) at most. I have fitted a Scotoiler to my V650 and expect to get well over 20k miles from the second chain. The Scotoiler uses thin oil without sticky additives. Its easy to clean the chain with a cloth and kerosene, and doesn't collect dirt/grit/crap from the road.

BruceC
 

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What about a front sprocket?
Yeah, agreed. At that mileage, change the front, too.
Clean with kerosene or WD40 (lots of debate, but has been shown to be fine, I've been cleaning chains with it for 25 years),. I also like Motul Chain cleaner, but WD40 is less expensive. Then lube. It should be cleaned and lubed every 500 miles.
 

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I would buy a spare front sprocket but inspect it before replacing, it probably has plenty of life left.
there are too many things that can kill chains to really bother listing. I suspect wheel alignment is the most common though.
 

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Normal Properly Adjusted Chain

10k miles out of original chain is about normal for a low cost bike. That's all I get.

However, replace with a good quality chain and keep it clean and lubed. Do NOT use gas (petrol) or degreaser to clean the chain. Kerosene (parafin) at most. I have fitted a Scotoiler to my V650 and expect to get well over 20k miles from the second chain. The Scotoiler uses thin oil without sticky additives. Its easy to clean the chain with a cloth and kerosene, and doesn't collect dirt/grit/crap from the road.

BruceC
Properly adjusted and aligned is in excess of 30,000 KM, improper adjustment and alignment can do in a chain in 100 KM, your first ride.
 

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Rubber Dampened Front Sprocket

I have about 30,000 KM , ( 25,000 by me) on my 16 tooth, removed it yesterday, absolutely no wear on it.I lube every 500 KM or sooner, ( using trip B ) always check what trip be is at, most of my rides are over 200 KM, so if it is at 350 KM I lube it before I leave, and reset trip B.
So original chain is at about 30,000 KM , and no signs of wear.
 

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I have about 30,000 KM , ( 25,000 by me) on my 16 tooth, removed it yesterday, absolutely no wear on it.I lube every 500 KM or sooner, ( using trip B ) always check what trip be is at, most of my rides are over 200 KM, so if it is at 350 KM I lube it before I leave, and reset trip B.

So original chain is at about 30,000 KM , and no signs of wear.

That's good going. What do you use to clean and lube?

And how do you check alignment? Something like the motion pro tool?

Tim


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I have about 30,000 KM , ( 25,000 by me) on my 16 tooth, removed it yesterday, absolutely no wear on it.I lube every 500 KM or sooner, ( using trip B ) always check what trip be is at, most of my rides are over 200 KM, so if it is at 350 KM I lube it before I leave, and reset trip B.
So original chain is at about 30,000 KM , and no signs of wear.
That's good going. What do you use to clean and lube?

And how do you check alignment? Something like the motion pro tool?

Tim....
And my '08 got about 56,000 MILES from it's OEM chain, ONLY lubed w/ WD40, and ridden on DIRT, LOTS...! Also, 29K miles on OEM front sprocket....

:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My rear sprocket is perfect, prob was a lack of lube issue. I purchased a proper chain from DID on Amazon.

How do I find a new rear sprocket? I tried 'kawasaki 44t sprocket' on amazon and it didn't produce any worthwhile results since nothing is properly labeled. What other bikes do we share our sprocket/chains with?
 

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That's good going. What do you use to clean and lube?

And how do you check alignment? Something like the motion pro tool?

Tim


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Yes cheap little tool, Eddie suggests to center punch each alignment adjusting bolt , once aligned,hex flat vertical, you can then count turns and flats to get exact spacing without tool.

Eddie beat me to it, I use Dupont chain saver or Dupont multipurpose lube found at Lowes. I spay it on, then wipe off with a rag, dirt flakes off.
 

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And my '08 got about 56,000 MILES from it's OEM chain, ONLY lubed w/ WD40, and ridden on DIRT, LOTS...! Also, 29K miles on OEM front sprocket....



:grin2:
Eddie 56000 miles?!? Has to be the most I've heard of on a chain. That's pretty amazing and one in the eye for the WD40 naysayers :)



Yes cheap little tool, Eddie suggests to center punch each alignment adjusting bolt , once aligned,hex flat vertical, you can then count turns and flats to get exact spacing without tool.



Eddie beat me to it, I use Dupont chain saver or Dupont multipurpose lube found at Lowes. I spay it on, then wipe off with a rag, dirt flakes off.

Great idea on marking the adjuster nuts up - may be the first job I do when I get back to Blighty after I've fitted my speedy lowering link.

And I'll check out the Dupont lube next time I'm in Lowes. I'm pretty diligent on chain care. Clean with kerosene every 300-400 miles, lube with low fling aerosol mcycle lube and it looks in good shape at 8000 miles. But worst thing is the sticky black mess that gets under the front sprocket cover. I hate that! Will Dupont make my life any easier with that?

Tim



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And I'll check out the Dupont lube next time I'm in Lowes. I'm pretty diligent on chain care. Clean with kerosene every 300-400 miles, lube with low fling aerosol mcycle lube and it looks in good shape at 8000 miles. But worst thing is the sticky black mess that gets under the front sprocket cover. I hate that! Will Dupont make my life any easier with that?


I use Dupont and it is a wax, no fling or drip, so it should theoretically not end up a black greasy mess on the front sprocket. I haven't had the front sprocket cover off since I switched to Dupont so I can't say for certain.

I bought my V used and it had a new chain and sprocket according to the PO. I was using some left-over lube that was not very clean and did make a greasy mess. After a few thousand km I noticed some bad o rings. I suspected poor alignment so I researched here and got the Motion Pro tool and some Dupont chain saver wax spray. The chain it was off by several turns of the adjuster. The lube actually looks dry on the chain now and the chain stays a lot cleaner too.

Over twenty thousand km later I am still using that chain with defective o rings. No tight spots yet. I credit proper alignment and the Dupont for the extended chain life.
 

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And my '08 got about 56,000 MILES from it's OEM chain, ONLY lubed w/ WD40, and ridden on DIRT, LOTS...! Also, 29K miles on OEM front sprocket....

:grin2:
Which leaves me wondering about your initial post. WD-40 is damn near kerosene, which is way more solvent than lubricant. As the lube is sealed *in* the chain, I think you're experiment is proof that lubrication isn't really necessary.

Having said that, I still use actual chain lube myself. I usually put the bike on a stand, turn it on, put it in gear and spray WD-40 on it to clean it. Most of it flings right off, black with filth. I then turn off the bike, wipe off the chain and repeat with actual chain lube. Doing this, virtually nothing flings off and away I go.

I feel I'm probably spinning my wheels, but it doesn't take much extra time/cost and my chain is going on 16k miles now and seems no worse for the wear.

One suggestion I came across recently was to flip the front sprocket. Apparently, it takes most of the wear since it's spinning a lot faster and has a lot less leverage in the tug of war. Steel sprockets are pretty resilient anyway, but they recommended the flip as a way to give the front sprocket a fresh face with which to do its heavy lifting. Made sense to me.
 

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Eddie 56000 miles?!? Has to be the most I've heard of on a chain. That's pretty amazing and one in the eye for the WD40 naysayers :)
In addition, Bill Watson of Thermo-Bob fame (he started me onto using only WD40) asked for that chain, inspected it, then said that it WASN'T even close to being worn-out. It just had ONE noisy link...!

...Great idea on marking the adjuster nuts up - may be the first job I do when I get back to Blighty after I've fitted my speedy lowering link....
Be SURE to align the wheels/ chain BEFORE marking the flats....

...One suggestion I came across recently was to flip the front sprocket. Apparently, it takes most of the wear since it's spinning a lot faster and has a lot less leverage in the tug of war. Steel sprockets are pretty resilient anyway, but they recommended the flip as a way to give the front sprocket a fresh face with which to do its heavy lifting. Made sense to me.
I would strongly suggest that you do NOT flip the countershaft sprocket - they're about $15. REPLACE it...!

On the other hand - I DO flip the rear sprockets, and on the 56K mile chain (ACTUALLY 56,901 MILES...) did so at 31,792 miles.
 

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I



Over twenty thousand km later I am still using that chain with defective o rings. No tight spots yet. I credit proper alignment and the Dupont for the extended chain life.

That's a pretty good testimonial right there. Thanks smiley, eddie and onewizard for the recommendations and suggestions!

Tim



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using an auto oiler - I switched to ATF for the chain lube it deals with winter temps better and smelled better than gear oil.
 

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Properly adjusted and aligned is in excess of 30,000 KM, improper adjustment and alignment can do in a chain in 100 KM, your first ride.
Aaaahhh! The alignment marks on my swing arm were not in alignment. Did not pick this up for some time. They were so far out that it affected handling, but I was looking for other culprits. Took a while to get to the chain.

Now use a laser alignment tool to make sure the chain actually is in alignment.

But, like many low cost bikes, the V does not have a quality chain installed at the factory. You will get far better mileage out of a good chain than the original.

BruceC
 

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...But, like many low cost bikes, the V does not have a quality chain installed at the factory. You will get far better mileage out of a good chain than the original.

BruceC
AND, FWIW - I got MORE than 56,000 miles from the ORIGINAL chain on my '08, and when it was checked by an engineer, he said that it was NOT worn-out, only that it had ONE noisy link....

:smile2:
 
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