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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just got the bars for my 2016 650LT. The installation seemed simple and straight forward. Started on the right side. Took out the original bolts from the plate seen below. Tried to mount the bar and could not get the left bolt to catch the threads. Look in in the hole and saw that the hole in the plate and the threaded hole in the frame are misaligned. I noticed when I was removing the left bolt that it seemed to be a little hard to lossen.

This is a big problem as I can't even put the OEM bolts back in! Anyone have an idea how to get the holes aligned???

 

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a round file and some free time
 

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Discussion Starter #3
a round file and some free time
That wouldn't work because there is a nut tacked to the back of the frame where the bolt goes into. Not enough room to work with a file.

I did finally manage to get the bolts in. I had to jack up the motor mount to get the holes to align (see pic):

 

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I did finally manage to get the bolts in. I had to jack up the motor mount to get the holes to align (see pic):
You faced my most anticipated problem! Congratulations.

When removing the bolts, I was lucky enough that some friction was holding the engine up and the bolts were free. But a simple nudge could have brought me to your situation (and I don't have a jack).
 

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UGGGGG !!!

Everytime that happens to me, it takes an hour to get everything lined back up. Once the motor moves, it takes much patience and cursing. Standing on one leg, and chanting something in Latin - will also help.

Glad to see you got it back together without kicking it. lol
 

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That wouldn't work because there is a nut tacked to the back of the frame where the bolt goes into. Not enough room to work with a file.

I did finally manage to get the bolts in. I had to jack up the motor mount to get the holes to align (see pic):

Well done! :thumb:
 

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Looks like "gentle" support under the engine before starting is the answer. (Can't remember IF I did that when I mounted the SW-Motechs onto my '15 650LT, but I had NO problems!)

I only did one side at a time. Did you try doing both left and right at the same time?
 

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I used the engine mounts for attaching my highway pegs (2015) and didn't have any problem. I only did one side at a time however.
 

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Same problem. I put the crash bars off, put them in a vise, and used a saber saw to enlarge the mounting hole into an oblong hole. I read this procedure in an earlier thread.
 

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Ok, I don't get it. Is it basically impossible to install these without a jack? I was about to order a set of these but I really don't have any kinda tools or files or anything, just a basic set of wrenches and **** I got for my birthday once.

Is this the kind of thing I should be able to do in my apartment parking garage?
 

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Ok, I don't get it. Is it basically impossible to install these without a jack? I was about to order a set of these but I really don't have any kinda tools or files or anything, just a basic set of wrenches and **** I got for my birthday once.

Is this the kind of thing I should be able to do in my apartment parking garage?
Here's the thing - you may, or may not have this problem. You can try just doing one side at a time - loosening as few fasteners at a time as the installation will allow. The motor may shift anyway. Or not.

I just installed a set on a 2014 and everything held in place until I finished......... but it doesn't always happen this way.
 

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I've installed SW-Motech crash-bars on two Gen 1s, an '08 and an '09, and on a Gen 3 - my '15.

NEVER had any issues mounting them, and I do NOT remember having to 'hoist' the bike....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Word of Warning

Word of warning!

Whatever you do, when tightening the mounting bolts, DO NOT use the given torque spec in the SW Motech crash bar instructions, or even the torque spec listed for those bolts in the service manual (about the same as in the Motech instructions).

I've always been a stickler for using a torque wrench for fasteners on my bikes. I did the same this time when attempting to mount the crash bars. The stated torque is 23 NM which is what I set the wrench to, but I wound up striping the threads on the nut tacked to the frame! For the last 15 or 20 years I've used torque wrenches and have never had a problem. I just about crapped when this happened and was sick to my stomach.

"What did I do wrong?", I asked myself over and over. My metric torque wrench is a good quality one, a CDI (subsidiary of Snap-on) and just a few days prior had used it to put on an oil filter,... no problems.

Just on the off chance that the settings on my torque wrench had gone out of whack suddenly, I took it to be calibrated yesterday. Not knowing what had happened, I thought I'd cover that base so that I could trust it after what happened. I pick it up in 2 weeks.

Today, in order to get back on the road, I took the Versys to a highly competent, trusted independent motorcycle mechanic to have heli-coils put in. When I told him what had happened, he said that I was far from being the only person this had happened to. He stated that he did not know why some companies state such high torque values for those nuts that are tack welded to the frame. He's had enough experience with them that he errs on the side of caution by being VERY careful with how much he tightens bolts that screw in to those tack welded nuts.

What a cluster! The good news is that he got it fixed and it is ready to be picked up. If I was a drinking man, I'd be getting hammered right now in celebration of getting it fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Word of warning!
Now that I have received my torque wrench back from calibration and know that it was within factory spec when I used it, I'm pretty sure I know what happened to cause me to strip the threads of the nuts welded to the frame that the motor mount bracket attaches to on the right side of the bike. The instructions are simply wrong as it relates to the torque value for the right side of the bike! Best not to use a torque wrench on the right side bolts, just snug them up with a regular wrench using caution not to tighten them up too much. Caution is the key word. I was lucky to have had a backup mechanic who could fix the stripped threads


Torque wrench calibrations results. This shows that the stripped, welded nut was not the result of a torque wrench out of whack:




The SW Motech instructions for the crash bars show 23 NM for both bolts... no way this is correct for the right side:




Note the two diagrams below. One shows that the left side crash bar bolts attach to nuts supplied by SW Motech. These nuts can probably take the 23 NM torque. The right side however, attaches to the welded nuts on the frame. According to my mechanic, these tacked on nuts (not just those on the Versys) have relatively few threads to grab the crash bar bolts with and are obviously not designed to be tightened to 23 NM:



 

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About the only things I torque are bolts with a variable stress (head bolts for instance). All other fasteners get the non-calibrated wrist and appropriate length wrench/ratchet. I've never stripped a bolt with this method (have stripped a couple using a torque wrench). It's always an "aww-s**t" moment.
 

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I always use a torque wrench to make sure I don't over tighten any fasteners. I always make sure I can start the fastener by hand and drive it in with a bare socket and my fingers before applying the torque wrench. I always use a torque wrench where the torque value is within the range and granularity of the wrench. 3 different torque wrenches to work on the bikes.
 

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FWIW - I torqued all the bolts to the instruction's "value" when I installed the SW-Motechs on my Gen 3 ('15 650).





MAYBE I was just lucky....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
MAYBE I was just lucky....

Given my experience, I would say so.

Like twowheeladdict, I have always used a torque wrench where possible. If I ever again have to fasten up anything to those welded on nuts, I will do it without a torque wrench. Lesson learned.
 
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