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So I accidentally pulled a wheelie (having failed to ever pull one on purpose), got tossed off the back, bike went vertical destroying the tail, and fell over to her left, breaking off the foot peg/shifter, bending my frame slider, and cracking the generator cover.

I'd describe myself as a mechanically inclined novice. Obviously the generator cover is my greatest concern. After all the oil leaked out, I took off the cover and all looked good inside. I've looked at the service manual so I have an idea of how to make the replacement, but I want to check with you experienced folks about it. How do I do this properly? Should I use the Kawasaki silicone sealant or is there a better one? Tips on safely replacing the coil, sealing the gasket, etc. Any advice at all would be great.
 

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Sorry to hear on your mishap and glad you are Ok.
From the look of the attached picture, you have done a good job of dismantling and fitting I am sure you will take care by been patience in fitting the way it came out. As for sealing any silicon will do the job as there is not much pressure in there except heat. Make sure to tighten all fitting properly. Good luck.
 

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Seems to me that someone posted up about cracking that cover, and it wrecked his stator, which MIGHT only become noticeable after it's all back together.

:goodluck:
 

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Wshew. That's some damage. I think GB makes some beefy aftermarket covers for our bikes. Perhaps that might be worth a shot. Hopefully the stator is A-OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks fellas!

Do I need to apply sealant all along both sides of the new gasket?
Replacing the stator is just a matter of Loctite and a torque wrench, am I right?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Wshew. That's some damage. I think GB makes some beefy aftermarket covers for our bikes. Perhaps that might be worth a shot. Hopefully the stator is A-OK.
Are the GB covers just more impact resistant? It's a few bucks cheaper than the OEM part. Any disadvantage?

Edit: Oh it's just a cover, not a replacement for the alternator cover.
 

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Wshew. That's some damage. I think GB makes some beefy aftermarket covers for our bikes. Perhaps that might be worth a shot. Hopefully the stator is A-OK.
Are the GB covers just more impact resistant? It's a few bucks cheaper than the OEM part. Any disadvantage?

Edit: Oh it's just a cover, not a replacement for the alternator cover.
Huh. I thought they replaced the OE covers. Well now I feel dumb.
 

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If you don't already have it, look at Partzilla for the cover. PN:
14031-0078 COVER-GENERATOR

It was in stock when I ordered it for $69.92
 

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Your stator looks like it's developing a burnt spot, which you may like to address now. OneWizard should have a better idea... What's the year and mileage on it?

Seems to me that someone posted up about cracking that cover, and it wrecked his stator, which MIGHT only become noticeable after it's all back together.

:goodluck:
The stator was subsequently damaged because the damaged cover had not been replaced, causing the stator to be misaligned.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/9-technical-discussion/85794-stator-rotor-damage.html
 

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Burnt Stator

So I accidentally pulled a wheelie (having failed to ever pull one on purpose), got tossed off the back, bike went vertical destroying the tail, and fell over to her left, breaking off the foot peg/shifter, bending my frame slider, and cracking the generator cover.

I'd describe myself as a mechanically inclined novice. Any advice at all would be great.
You need a new stator and a new cover, if you want, take a close up of the stator, from both sides, I also want to see the area around the burnt pole. I would also suggest replacing the regulator with a Polaris, I have details on this forum how to.
If you doubt what I say, go back in some of my posts, others have done what you did, same results. From a OEM price you have over $600 damage.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/9-technical-discussion/16774-burnt-stators-22.html#post930114

Further advice, many after market stator replacements are Y connected. The OEM is Delta connected.One easy way to identify Y connected is in one spot between poles you will see 3 magnet wires terminate. The problem is they use the same wire gauge as Delta, when the gauge should be 15 gauge for Y and 18 gauge for Delta.
One distributor in Canada and on Ebay---"RM Stator"-I originally recommended, unfortunately, this is Y connected, has less copper and once warmed up will not output full power, how I know this is Smiley contacted me and informed me with heated gear the stator can't keep up. Makes sense to me, how can you expect one 18 gauge to carry 13 amp per phase, when OEM has two 18 gauge wires carrying the same current. Formula root 3 or 1.73 X 13 amp = 23 amp maximum output.


Delta uses two 18 gauge wires per phase out. There is a used 2014 on Ebay and also the cover is on Ebay, shipping is becoming a problem and beware, additional International fees are being added by the Global shipping company Pittney Bowes, which many sellers are using.

Any questions feel free to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your stator looks like it's developing a burnt spot, which you may like to address now. OneWizard should have a better idea... What's the year and mileage on it?
It's a 2009 with about 20k miles.
OneWizard seems convinced the stator is burnt...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You need a new stator and a new cover, if you want, take a close up of the stator, from both sides, I also want to see the area around the burnt pole. I would also suggest replacing the regulator with a Polaris, I have details on this forum how to.
If you doubt what I say, go back in some of my posts, others have done what you did, same results. From a OEM price you have over $600 damage.

Further advice, many after market stator replacements are Y connected. The OEM is Delta connected.One easy way to identify Y connected is in one spot between poles you will see 3 magnet wires terminate.
Hi OneWizard. You sound sure about the stator, but yeah I do have doubts. If that is a burn mark, I find it hard to believe it was caused by this drop. I'd take more pics but can't get to it right now because it's in another state at the moment.

You lost me with the after market stator connector stuff.
 

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If this is the case, how urgently do I need to change the stator, considering I've probably been riding with it for some time?
Couple things, it appears only one pole is shorted, years ago , sometimes a partial rewind was done, you have 18 poles, if only one is trouble, you could rewind that pole and put it back in service.
Invader looked close enough to notice, and he is right as to this has been going on for some time. The cover needs to be replaced, the stator is held precisely over the rotor, you are taking a huge risk trying to repair the cover, all you need is for the rotor catch the stator, dislodge some fragment of metal and get it in your motor.

As to running as is, you could remove the winding of that pole and jumper the connection, that pole is acting as a load if it is shorted.


There are numerous pictures of stators on this forum, including a Y connected stator, looking closely at OEM and comparing to a Y connected stator, the Y has less copper, so the space between poles and windings is greater. Also somewhere between poles is a connection of 3 wires.

The difference is comparable to running a electric lawnmower on a 16 gauge cord or on a 12 gauge. The 16 will run hot and the lawnmower will have no power, having said that------some lawnmowers were designed for 90 VAC , taking into consideration that the cord used may not be heavy enough. There were warnings on those mowers to not use less than a 50 foot cord.

Back to your question of continued use, your bike your choice, eventually you will have a dead battery and be without a ride if your stator fails completely.

If you follow this thread http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/9-technical-discussion/88321-stator-dying-some-other-electrical-gremlin.html#post951489 I have some tests on page 2 and 3, that could be done to prove what is going on.
 

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If this is the case, how urgently do I need to change the stator, considering I've probably been riding with it for some time?
If it is obviously failing, why not replace it now while its apart.. I understand the economics of it, not wanting to buy more than necessary to get back on the road..However it does seem the stator is one of the very few weaknesses on an other wise pretty solidly engineered bike. Replace it now, wont need to tear into it again later, and you have peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The cover needs to be replaced, the stator is held precisely over the rotor, you are taking a huge risk trying to repair the cover, all you need is for the rotor catch the stator, dislodge some fragment of metal and get it in your motor.
Why is this more likely to happen if I replace the old stator onto a new cover than if I put a new stator on a new cover?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
And regarding my rear fender, is there a fender eliminator in existence that uses my stock turn signals?
 

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Stator Cover

Why is this more likely to happen if I replace the old stator onto a new cover than if I put a new stator on a new cover?
I am not sure how you interpreted what I said as to the cover. I am saying, do not attempt to use the old cover and patch the cover. I am saying buy a new or used cover, you can then mount the old stator and do the tests I posted. Basically open circuit volts AC at 2000 RPM phase to phase and phase to ground.

If I can see a burnt area from the picture you posted, which isn't a close up, then there is no doubt there is damage, how long it will maintain your battery is dependent on the shorted turns of that pole. Eventually your battery and your regulator could also fail.
 
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