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It wasn't hard, but would have been much easier. The "install" paperwork is as bad as it gets. Anyone with minor mechanical experience can figure it out, but at this price it's a piss-poor excuse for instructions.

Most of the brands likely share the same mounting points.

One problem everyone considering should note:
At the front there is a bolt slotted into an aluminum "knuckle" which cradles the nut on three faces. Just look at your bike after the exhaust comes out and you can see it behind on each side. The bolt just holds some body work with one side utilizing a long hollow spacer. Well, if the bolt in your kit is poorly threaded, as mine was, it will easily spin the nut in the aluminum mount - rounding it nicely. With just three faces being supported the crashbar makers, of all brand, need to span that void with a spacer and bolt from the outside. Even better use a single long bolt from end to end - hello! I simply purchased a slightly longer bolt at the hardware store to solve the problem. Just FYI as it took a long time to get the spun side back out.

Don't overtighten the 'U" connector. Snug with locktight is enough.

It was a 2 hour install, but could re-do in 1 hour.

The crashbar looks very cool and does not interfere with foot position. It gives you a good place for additional pegs as well. It's a great addition and is solidly connected to the bike. Enjoy.
 

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As a lover of sw motech I know all about the crappy instructions. Thanks for the tips on installing the long bolt instead of spacer system. I am getting their skid and crash bar setup soon.
 

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It wasn't hard, but would have been much easier. The "install" paperwork is as bad as it gets. Anyone with minor mechanical experience can figure it out, but at this price it's a piss-poor excuse for instructions.

Most of the brands likely share the same mounting points.

One problem everyone considering should note:
At the front there is a bolt slotted into an aluminum "knuckle" which cradles the nut on three faces. Just look at your bike after the exhaust comes out and you can see it behind on each side. The bolt just holds some body work with one side utilizing a long hollow spacer. Well, if the bolt in your kit is poorly threaded, as mine was, it will easily spin the nut in the aluminum mount - rounding it nicely. With just three faces being supported the crashbar makers, of all brand, need to span that void with a spacer and bolt from the outside. Even better use a single long bolt from end to end - hello! I simply purchased a slightly longer bolt at the hardware store to solve the problem. Just FYI as it took a long time to get the spun side back out.

Don't overtighten the 'U" connector. Snug with locktight is enough.

It was a 2 hour install, but could re-do in 1 hour.

The crashbar looks very cool and does not interfere with foot position. It gives you a good place for additional pegs as well. It's a great addition and is solidly connected to the bike. Enjoy.
Very good points. Yes, that set up in the front position is just wrong. The one on the left side of my bike wouldn't tighten all the way due to the spinning. I should fix it the way you did.

Can add this though, the Givi directions are the worse. They actually indicate to attach their bars in the wrong places. No, seriously. I had to call Givi USA and the guy and I figured out where they were suppose to attach by looking at pictures of them installed that we found on the internet.

They attach at the same points as the motech, but that's not what their instructions indicate.

Oh yeah, forgot to add, the Givi doesn't have a "Rev 2" like the Motech. The Motech went to using a longer bolt for the rearward mounting point. The Givi has what they had in "Rev 1", it's just a longer piece of threaded rod that you have to put a nut on ea side. That means there's no easy way to tighten ea side down, there's nothing to hold on the other side, not enough room to put 2 nuts and tighten them together. It was a pia.
 
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