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Hi everyone,
I have a 2009 versys 650 with 107k km and I think it's about time to check my valves before anything goes bad.
I've thoroughly read the service manual about valve clearance and adjustment but there are a couple things I'm still not sure about and would gladly receive some advice from someone who has done it before.
The manual says to turn the crank so that through the inspection hole I have 1/t for piston #1(left piston) and turn in to 2/t for piston #2 (right piston).
Other than that it says the piston needs to be at top dead center and I'm not sure what that means exactly.
From what I understood, for each piston I'll be checking the clearance individually, for the left piston I'll turn the crank to 1/t and check both the intake and the exhaust for that piston and then I'll turn the crank to 2/t and check the both exhaust and intake for the right piston.
Did I understand the instructions correctly?

If I do need to change the shims, does is matter at what position the cranks are in?

The manual also says I need to apply moly grease to the shims, how critical is it to put that specific grease and how much of it should I put?


Since the bike has over 100k km I would like to inspect the valves, is it possible for me to do that or would I need special tools?

Thanks for your help!!!
 

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i havnt done the valves on my versys yet but you are on the right track, you measure the clearance at TDC because both valves (intake and exhaust) should be closed at TDS. moly grease is a good thing to just have in general and you should use a small dab of it on the shims (helps keep them lubed on the dryness that is start up to keep the cam from eating them (common old ford problem) and IF you do have to replace shims (or do anything that you have to remove/ change the cam chain) make sure you have the motor set to TDS and make good not of EXACTLY where it is befor you start taking it apart so you can get it back in the same spot, or you will have your timing off and can blow the motor up (speaking from experience)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The whole tdc part got me confused, because it's either the left piston or the right piston is at tdc. So if i need to replace any of the shims which piston needs to be tdc?
Thanks :)
 

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The whole tdc part got me confused, because it's either the left piston or the right piston is at tdc. So if i need to replace any of the shims which piston needs to be tdc?
Thanks :)
It doesn't matter... It'll be where it was when you were done measuring valve clearances, and start removing the camshafts to access all the lifters. Pull lifters out with a magnet, and you'll find the shim sticking at bottom of lifter.
 

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Ok thanks! I'll take pictures of the whole process because I couldn't find 1 normal tutorial about how to do it step by step.
Hope my motor doesn't blow! :)
 

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The whole tdc part got me confused, because it's either the left piston or the right piston is at tdc. So if i need to replace any of the shims which piston needs to be tdc?
Thanks :)
doesnt matter when it comes to the tear down , thats just a more exact point to insure you can get the cam set back into the same timing
 

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Step by Step Right here

Ok thanks! I'll take pictures of the whole process because I couldn't find 1 normal tutorial about how to do it step by step.
Hope my motor doesn't blow! :)
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/121402-valve-shim-check-valve-timing-valve-adjustment.html

Since this Photo Bucket posting thing I think I will attempt to post my method which is very similar to Fasteddie. One caution is make sure you are careful with the timing chain. My method requires absolutely no movement of the crankshaft after you get the measurements.

Tools that you should have; telescopic swivel magnet( one that you can fix the final angle of the magnet), something to pickup a small watch or hearing aid battery as that is about the size of the shim. A breaker bar, this is used to hold the crankshaft in the exact position. Carbide 200 to 300 grit sand paper.A precision micrometer, best go with digital unless you are familiar using a precision one that measures to 0.0001 mm. A inch pound torque wrench 1/4 inch drive. If you are working on a MK-3 a set of obstruction wrenches / S wrenches for the cam chain tensioner. Feeler gauges Go / No Go , as in the photo.


I removed the buckets and put them in a egg carton, as it was suggested to do one at a time the egg carton wasn't really needed, also I should point out all my measurements were either spec or tight, at 10,000 KM. FYI to the post below Someone may misunderstand and place assembly grease inside the bucket, this will throw off your measurement when final check. Once assembled there is no movement / wear on the shim. My camshaft lobes had plenty of oil on them and the buckets were removed with a magnet and installed the same way, no oil was removed in the process. Also when reassembly , you are installing the shim , and then lowering the bucket over the shim, using a magnet it is best to keep the magnet near the edge of the bucket, as it could be possible for the shim to be displaced before the bucket is all the way in, from the force of a powerful magnet.
Comment about grease is for building a new motor with no lube, the buckets have oil in them, the cam has a film of oil on it. I will try and post my step by step photos soon!!
 

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I only had one valve (intake) worth adjusting at 32,000 Miles.

I'd recommend a slight bit of assembly grease with oil when re-installing the shim buckets as that is what the manual recommends.

Checking valve clearances at TDC is overrated, is the cam lobe touching the valve bucket? If no, MEASURE IT!
 
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