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The previous owner of my versys installed one of those green LED lights in the dash. I'm glad to see the chart as I was curious over what the charge/discharge rates actually are. I've found with mine, when going down the road, be it city or highway, it stays green and then periodically will flash red a couple of times. I assume that is the regulator doing its job in providing the proper voltage to the battery. Resting battery voltage is always in the 12.7-12.9 range so the electrical system is good. One thing I do find interesting is that if I'm in the city and its a warm enough day for the fan to come on, that indicator light will go to red, as long as the fan is running. A proper battery meter would likely be better visually, but in reality the LED does the same thing. If it goes red and stays red, then you have an electrical problem. Either one is going to warn you something is going wrong.
As to stator failure. This is not unique to the versys. Every bike out there that operates with a similar system has the same issues. The stator puts out maximum AC volts and the stock regulator/rectifier converts it to 12 V and shunts any excess to ground. The series regulator works a bit differently, but the stator output is the same, its just how the series regulator/rectifier handles the excess voltage. One thing you have to keep in mind is that the charging system is only as good as the battery and its related connections including ground. The charging system in these bikes is pretty weak, and in real terms is more of a maintainer system. If you are continually running a weak battery you are going to have problems with your system as it puts undue strain on the rest of the components.
My view has always been that weak batteries and poor connections cause the majority of issues with stators & regulator/rectifiers. By example, you loose your ground and that electrical energy is going to go somewhere. Considering the number of motorcycles, in the millions, that run a system similar to the versys, the actual failure rate is very low. You will always have some manufacture issue that crops up once and awhile, but on the whole, the system is pretty simple and works.
 

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As I’m getting the bike loaded for a weekend camping trip, I don’t have the time to write a detailed response.

@onewizard care to correct the above statement regarding how a series regulator operates and why it is far superior to a shunt regulator?
 

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My post was not to get into this is better between a series and shunt regulator. That has been discussed multiple times on this forum and on any other motorcycle forum that has an oil bath stator and a shunt regulator. I merely pointed out the differences. Each to there own as to which they want to use.
 

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The previous owner of my versys installed one of those green LED lights in the dash. I'm glad to see the chart as I was curious over what the charge/discharge rates actually are. I've found with mine, when going down the road, be it city or highway, it stays green and then periodically will flash red a couple of times. I assume that is the regulator doing its job in providing the proper voltage to the battery. Resting battery voltage is always in the 12.7-12.9 range so the electrical system is good. One thing I do find interesting is that if I'm in the city and its a warm enough day for the fan to come on, that indicator light will go to red, as long as the fan is running. A proper battery meter would likely be better visually, but in reality the LED does the same thing. If it goes red and stays red, then you have an electrical problem. Either one is going to warn you something is going wrong.
As to stator failure. This is not unique to the versys. Every bike out there that operates with a similar system has the same issues. The stator puts out maximum AC volts and the stock regulator/rectifier converts it to 12 V and shunts any excess to ground. The series regulator works a bit differently, but the stator output is the same, its just how the series regulator/rectifier handles the excess voltage. One thing you have to keep in mind is that the charging system is only as good as the battery and its related connections including ground. The charging system in these bikes is pretty weak, and in real terms is more of a maintainer system. If you are continually running a weak battery you are going to have problems with your system as it puts undue strain on the rest of the components.
My view has always been that weak batteries and poor connections cause the majority of issues with stators & regulator/rectifiers. By example, you loose your ground and that electrical energy is going to go somewhere. Considering the number of motorcycles, in the millions, that run a system similar to the versys, the actual failure rate is very low. You will always have some manufacture issue that crops up once and awhile, but on the whole, the system is pretty simple and works.
It would be much easier just to delete this post, as there is very little accurate info in it.
My post was not to get into this is better between a series and shunt regulator. That has been discussed multiple times on this forum and on any other motorcycle forum that has an oil bath stator and a shunt regulator. I merely pointed out the differences. Each to there own as to which they want to use.
Yes, and on 4 forums I have been on I have taken the time to correct, usually, after my post, there is silence, it is posts like this that make people buy FET type regulators thinking, hey it must be better!
Let us sidetrack a bit, most people on here have car or truck experience, alternators have come a long way, brushless has been around about 40 years. Like a motorcycle a car battery provides the means to starting and storing energy, that stored energy may be used from time to time to assist the alternator, a bad battery could cause the charging system to fail, however, most car charging systems are sufficient that the next time you try and start--just clicking. As related to the car, a bad ground could prevent the car battery from getting a proper charge, in Canadian winters that could cause failure in the battery.

A bad ground on a motorcycle will do nothing to cause a stator to fail, if it is the main engine ground, chances are good that your bike won't start and if it does, will frequently stall when at idle.

Related to all internal combustion engines with charging systems and batteries, none of them will run very long without a fully functioning charging system. The difference between a car alternator and most motorcycles. A car alternator controls the field strength of the rotating magnetic field, which in turn controls the output. The motorcycle with the permanent magnet alternator cannot control the field strength, until the series regulator came along we could only add load to control the voltage output by using the shunt regulator.
We have come a long way in electronics, last time I checked, frequency drives could measure RPM, and make decisions 30 times per second. The series regulator does just that, measure the output voltage and turn off output above 14.2 VDC.
The statement that series and shunt stators operate the same is 100% incorrect, my 2015 like my former 07 stator, runs at about 45 to 55% output all the time, unless I have heated gear or grips on or if the fan runs. It does not go through a heat cool cycle every time I go from idle to 3500 RPM or greater, which is what a shunt regulator does, in fact, a shunt regulator does nothing until you reach as high as 15 VDC, what the OEM one has is 6 diodes and a shunt circuit, and your shunt stator is outputting 100% at or above 3500 RPM------If you think a 55% loaded stator runs at the same temperature as a 100% loaded stator --you would be wrong !

One true statement, a bad battery could cause stator failure on a series regulator stator ( the stator would be under 100% load all the time it is able to produce full power with a bad battery- specifically a shorted cell), and possibly a shunt regulator type stator ( the point between 14.2 to 15 VDC that a shunt regulator would allow voltage to climb, would be used up by the bad battery -- in essence a current increase at 14.2 to 15 VDC with a bad battery)

I have detail elsewhere on exactly how a series regulator works.
Feel free to question any statement I made, I spent a lifetime involved with anything electric.
 
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One could debate the series/shunt regulator pros and cons until the cows come home. If people want to see the differences between the two, there is lots of good info, along with charts that outline the specific differences between the two on the web. Each has its good points. I have no axe to grind in this discussion on regulators. Use what works for you.
 

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One could debate the series/shunt regulator pros and cons until the cows come home. If people want to see the differences between the two, there is lots of good info, along with charts that outline the specific differences between the two on the web. Each has its good points. I have no axe to grind in this discussion on regulators. Use what works for you.
I have no axe to grind either, but I take offense when someone posts miss information, which happens to be your quoted posts.
Maybe you could provide links to all the charts on the web that shows the difference between series and shunt regulators , stator loading, etc.
Possibly you could contact Polaris and tell them they are wasting money manufacturing series regulators, while you are at it , maybe you could contact Shindengen and tell them the same thing, in fact I would suggest you contact Roadster cycle and suggest they change the information they have posted about series regulators .

Or just edit or delete your post.
Everything I stated I can back up 100%- can you say the same thing?
I am not trying to be confrontational, but I hate misinformation.
 

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Here are some links on threads I developed, one in particular for proving if you purchased a fake series regulator, as several members had been ripped off.

And more reading;


An amazing feat installing a 4016868 on an MK-1

 

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As to posts. Here are a couple of links that explain the difference. There are more but no reason to clutter up the forum. Folks can query and do their own research.

Clearly depending on application one is better than the other for the purposes outlined. As to Polaris, who knows why they do what they do. The same goes with Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, KTM or BMW or any other manufacturer that uses some form of oil bath stator and a shunt type regulator/rectifier. All told we are talking about millions of these types of systems in use. The failure rate is extremely small.

Better is one of those words that is very hard to quantify. It is impossible to do a side by side comparison of the two regulatory/rectifiers until failure. It is always going to be a bit of a crap shoot as to which one goes bad first. Stators go bad, as do series/shunt regulators for a host of reasons. I'm not knocking anybodies position on the topic at hand, but clearly there are different opinions out there. An interesting conversation. Take care & ride safe.
 

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As to posts. Here are a couple of links that explain the difference. There are more but no reason to clutter up the forum. Folks can query and do their own research.

Clearly depending on application one is better than the other for the purposes outlined. As to Polaris, who knows why they do what they do. The same goes with Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, KTM or BMW or any other manufacturer that uses some form of oil bath stator and a shunt type regulator/rectifier. All told we are talking about millions of these types of systems in use. The failure rate is extremely small.

Better is one of those words that is very hard to quantify. It is impossible to do a side by side comparison of the two regulatory/rectifiers until failure. It is always going to be a bit of a crap shoot as to which one goes bad first. Stators go bad, as do series/shunt regulators for a host of reasons. I'm not knocking anybodies position on the topic at hand, but clearly there are different opinions out there. An interesting conversation. Take care & ride safe.
Both links were written by the same uninformed person, English wasn't their first language, neither link applies to permanent magnet stators or series regulators--,clearly, some people just don't have a clue, but try and make it sound like they do.--I will just let it go
 

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@onewizard , which regulator would you recommend. Not concerned about cost, more interested in reliability and/or easiest to install. Would that be the Polaris 4016868 with Triumph 2500676 harness? Or is the smaller Polaris or the Compufire the better option?
 

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@onewizard , which regulator would you recommend. Not concerned about cost, more interested in reliability and/or easiest to install. Would that be the Polaris 4016868 with Triumph 2500676 harness? Or is the smaller Polaris or the Compufire the better option?
Could you take some photos of your existing regulator, up close and also showing the main fuse area , also from the opposite side of the bike from the rear shock area. I have some ideas. I am also close to solving the header plug for the plug and play idea.
 

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Could you take some photos of your existing regulator, up close and also showing the main fuse area , also from the opposite side of the bike from the rear shock area. I have some ideas. I am also close to solving the header plug for the plug and play idea.
Mine is currently stock. 2013 KLE650.
 

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Mine is currently stock. 2013 KLE650.
Yes, I need photos of your existing regulator, my Versys is a 2015 , been 7 years since I owned my 07, do you have ABS?
While we are at it, how slow or fast do you want to do this? For me this may be a winter project. I have two Triumph harnesses left, and two header plugs. One assembly is spoken for. What I am saying, is the ability to plug either the 4012941 or the other Polaris that I am running 4016868, which was also installed by @jpd , directly into the Kawasaki regulator plug and the ability to switch back. One small relay needs adding into the start solenoid .
 

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Here's a few photos of the areas of interest. I have a 4016868 and T2500676 on order, but I was wondering whether I'd be better off going for the 4012941 or Compufire instead as I think they're smaller so would make mounting in the OEM position easier.

Hood Automotive tire Rim Carbon Automotive design


Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior


Automotive tire Coil Coil spring Suspension Rim
 

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Here's a few photos of the areas of interest. I have a 4016868 and T2500676 on order, but I was wondering whether I'd be better off going for the 4012941 or Compufire instead as I think they're smaller so would make mounting in the OEM position easier.

View attachment 184075

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View attachment 184078
The 4012941 is easier fit but double the price of the 4016868 ( priced locally in spring 2019 at $105 Canadian from Polaris for the 868). The 941 is close to $200 Canadian from Partzilla and a few others. The 868 is 50 amp rated, the 941 is 25 amp continuous and the Compu-Fire is 35 amp. Compu-Fire is equally difficult to mount. I have photos somewhere of the Compu-fire in my 07 Versys, also it is butt splice or solder only.
If you have the triumph harness on order, then you are butt splicing or soldering. That header plug requires special soldering technique which I am perfecting. I have destroyed one plug, unintentionally, that is a rarity for me. So I am trying something new. I am 90% sure it will work.
 

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Updated my post - hopefully the photos show now. So will the 4012941 fit in the stock location OK? And will it also mate with the Triumph harness? I'm really just looking for the best solution.

I probably won't tackle the job for a few months, but I like to accumulate parts so I can do multiple jobs at the same time.

Currently (in addition to the R/R) I have a Booster Plug to install (so I'll be at least partially removing gas tank), aux lights, 12V outlet/voltmeter, Gear Indicator (perhaps) and new tires. Saving it all up for a rainy weekend or two :).
 

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Some of my photos include a 4012941 installed on the MK-1 & 2. It is almost a direct fit. The triumph harness fits both Polaris regulators. The issue is that the 50 amp 4016868 has taken the place of the older 941. The 941 may still be in production, but I have my doubts. Since about 2016 we have been buying used 4012941 off ebay, as the price went from $105 Canadian to $220 Canadian. The 868 will be a challenge to fit, and you would need to mount vertically like @jpd
 

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3 years on the 868 regulator install. Looked at it this morning and all is secure. Only 5,000 miles on it due to the fact that I have 4 bikes I ride and the Versys gets used for work commute only in good weather. One of my Concours for travel. I may get a low voltage indication only at idle with the cooling fan running. Raise the rpm just a little bit and my indicator goes green again. I have all of the removed parts if I want to put it back to original, I would have to crimp in the original wiring connector. I might have been nice to have had a regulator end of the original harness to put on the Triumph harness to make it plug and play. I didn't look at it due to the fact that I tend to keep my vehicles a very long time. I went with the 868 due to the large amount of fake 941 that were showing up used at the time.

My wife and I took the V out for a 60 mile 5 stop shopping trip yesterday. A lot of on and off and start and stops, ran great. We are planning a 300 mile day next weekend on the C-10.

CanydThunder good luck with you installation You can hit me up if you have any questions on my installation.
 
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