Yes but the JASO-MA2 rating is not the only indicator that anti-friction modifiers aren't present in the oil, the absence of "Energy/Resource Conserving" on the API service label is also. Ergo, every 10w40 oil on the market, all of which lack this label, is okay for a wet clutch. The next question is not what isn't in the additive package, but what is. If you read the MSDS sheets on 10w40 high-mileage synthetic or semi-synthetic car oil vs. 10w40 synthetic or semi-synthetic motorcycle oil, the additive packages are nearly identical. In some cases the extra additives in the car oil are about 80% of the quantity found in the bike oil, and that really is perfectly adequate in a <100hp engine. I'd probably spring for endangered baby bald eagle oil if I owned a $30,000 200hp CBR1000RR-R FireBlade, but I do not. The go-kart engine in my Versys will be perfectly happy with the Mobil-1 full synthetic car oil I pay <$5/qt for. And this is my last comment on the matter, I've said my peace, wish only to save my fellow riders money in this super crap economy, but use motorcycle oil if it gives you peace of mind which is also in short supply these days.Oil threads, man, they're the worst.
From everything I've read, you gotta get JASO-MA2 spec oil because the wet clutch. Car motor oil will cause excessive slipping of the clutch on a wet clutch motorcycle.
I've run Rotella before, but since the V650 only takes a measly 2 qts, I usually just use Castrol Actevo or whatever 4T motor oil I can get my hands on. My truck uses the same style filter as the Versys, so I keep Wix filters on hand for both vehicles.
Following up on this:
It is an interesting read, should check it out. Dude is a Mechanical Engineer not just John Doe. We never heard of JASO 50 years ago, also all you ran was automotive oils that's all there was. If you want to at least read the motorcycle section it's #33 little more than half way down....https://540ratblog.wordpress.comSo Kawasaki is in on the oil scam and printed JASO MA2 in their owners and service manuals?
I’m sure there’s oil products that didn’t submit and pay for the cert that also work just fine.
That's why I like using Motul's 100% Synthetic – Ester oil.So is this oil guy’s only measure of the best oil this psi stat? I’m not sure his methodology. I do know that it takes more than a single characteristic to be good, or the best motorcycle oil. I’ve been looking for a good colder weather alternative, for example. Because my well performing oil becomes less well performing when ambient temps drop below 50F.
I dismiss his mountains of data on what I should use, based on a single characteristic. What’s good in one machine might not be so good in another. Deserts of Mexico or a snowy mountain pass in Alaska? High rev or low rev engine?
That's why I don't bother experimenting beyond finding an oil that works well for me. You have a specific need that you're looking for, so I'm not harassing you, just using that statement as a jumping off point.I ran it for a week, 300 miles and dumped it. I really didn’t want to dump good oil and buy another round. So it was enough to make me want to do that.
Agree with this. I've been running Castrol Power 1 for a while. The bike takes two quarts, and I ride about 5,000 miles per year, so $22 a year for oil is worth knowing I'm using good oil made for motorcycles. Yes, there are people that ride 20,000 miles a year, and the cost savings of using cheap non-motorcycle specific oil could be significant, but for the majority of riders that's just not the case.That's why I don't bother experimenting beyond finding an oil that works well for me. You have a specific need that you're looking for, so I'm not harassing you, just using that statement as a jumping off point.
Might I find an oil that saves me a few $$ per year? Might I find an oil that has some kind of superior lube properties? Might I gain a small amount of hp or mpg? Maybe. But the $$ I waste on oil and filters while experimenting has to be figured in, too.
Were I running a fleet of bikes that run up big miles, yeah it would be worth considering. But I ride one bike and it gets one oil change per year typically. The oil and filter I use are plenty good for purpose, and I change them often, well within their service life. The potential gains just aren't worth the time and $$ experimenting with other oils.
Rotella T4 and T615w40 diesel engine oil actually does meet the JASO MA/ MA2 specifications and is about the cheapest "good" oil on the market. It has been in my KLR650 since it's first oil change.Not to start another oil thread war (I'm a veteran of the oil thread wars of 2005...we lost a lot of good men...), but the Mobil-1 10w40 High-Mileage Full Synthetic is pretty much the same thing but only $24 for 5qts. Been using that and various other 10w40 car oils for 20+ years now. Did the deep deep digging into Amsoil and Mobil's MSDS sheets to examine the formulation and additive packages and the only reason you're paying >$10/qt is because they printed "motorcycle" on the bottle. Anyone who chimes in with, "Yeah but it lubes the transmission" should know ATF is only ~7wt and the Getrag 5sp in my Chevy Colorado used 5w30 engine oil, so engine oil has the anti-sheer properties to survive a transmission. Also EVERY 10w40 on the market lacks the "Energy/Resource Conserving" entry on the API label so, yes, it's wet clutch safe. I put 31,000 miles on a MeanStreak and 28,000 miles so far on a 1700 Nomad using 10w40 car oil with zero issues. Used it in every bike I've owned. If a picture of a bike on the bottle is worth double the price or an extra $15 per oil change helps you sleep at night, hey...sometimes it's worth it if you suffer from anxiety I guess.