If you have a raised area on either the leading or back edge of the tread, it indicates that the rebound damping on the forks or shock is set either too fast or too slow.
Usually if it’s on the leading edge rebound is too slow, and if it’s on the back edge it’s too fast.

With regards to wear rate / mileage - lightweight people or someone with a soft throttle touch get much better mileage that lardy people / people with a heavy throttle hand

To set your rebound dampening (if it is adjustable) follow the instructions in this video below

 

With regards to wear rate / mileage - lightweight people or someone with a soft throttle touch get much better mileage that lardy people

Ha! You got me there TowerMan. I've been meaning to drop a few pounds, and now I have some financial motivation if it preserves tires!

I'd estimate I'm about 240 lbs. all geared up. I've also got the Kawi panniers and top box, though I carry minimal amounts of stuff in them.

All points well taken though, thank you! I watched the video, and bought the Lee Parks book Eddie mentioned. I'll definitely be digging further into the suspension setup. That said, I don't think I can do much with only a preload adjuster on the rear shock. I'm wondering now if I should be looking at swapping the stock unit for something fully adjustable. I'm guessing that might be pricey, but if it doubles the life of my tires it might pay for itself in a few years time.

Thanks again!

 

From all I've read, mixed reviews on the Road5's no matter what bike. Compounds similar or perhaps a tad softer compared to the PR4. The front tread pattern on both are just asking for wear issues, I'd use a different front.
Roadsmart 3's are a harder compound, should last much longer and wear more evenly... yes your pressures were too low IMHO.

 

All the info I could find on the Road 5's was positive. Perhaps I didn't do enough research.

I have to say that I did see a similar type of wear on the RS3's, though it wasn't nearly as pronounced as on the Road 5's. The tread was flared up at the edges, but not peeling away like you see in my photos.

Considering what's been suggested so far, I think the failing is not so much in the Road 5's, but a combination of low tire pressures, bad rebound properties on my shock, and my fat a$$. 😂

Thanks for the input RaYzerman!

 

I got 9,000 miles on my PR4s. I had to replace my Road 5s at 4700 miles because of terrible cupping. I won't go back to a Road 5, they are just too expensive to only last 4,700 miles.

 

Interesting to hear someone else seeing less than 5,000 miles from Road 5's. I believe cupping can be a result of non-optimal suspension settings as well.

Was the cupping on front and rear, or just one? Did you find the root cause?

Either way, sounds like PR4's might be an alternative I should check out.

Thanks!

 

You have to keep your pressures up on the Michelins because they have softer sidewalls than most. The Bridgestones are stiffer than most, RS3 almost as much.
IMHO, tire pressure has more to do with uniform tire wear, but I will agree wimpy suspension settings can be a contributor.
I have preload and rebound adjustments available on the V1000, so OK kinda adequate, but I'd love another aftermarket suspension...

 

Well I think I am well over 14,000 KM on the rear and front, one thing, I installed a tire pressure monitor over a year ago, it was said that if you have more than 10% increase in pressure from cold to hot, pressure is too low. I have the givi V56 top case and Trekker 33 side cases, I am carrying about 50 LBs including the weight of the cases. With gear total weight is around 255 LBs. I start out with a full tank of fuel, I top up at home to the filler neck, this saves me a stop, most rides are 330 KM minimum to up to 980 KM per day, most rides in May and June were 430 KM around Grey Bruce Ontario.. I run 38 front and 42 rear, my hot pressure is around 41 and 46LB, so within the 10%. I will check mileage and post some photos later.

 

What I'm going to say is NOT about the "Road 5" tires.

I run SHINKO E705 tires on BOTH V650s - my '08 (in AZ) and my '15 (in BC). My experience is that they perform very well on pavement, and give PDG mileage. Here are the mileages that I got here in BC, using a 120/70 on the front (30,169 kms = 18,746 mi, then 25,879 kms = 16,080 mi) while using 150/70 rears (16,465 kms = 10, 231 mi, then 12,870 kms = 7,997 mi, then 16,381 kms = 10,178 mi). I run them at 36 psi F, 42 psi R.

Several inmates have ridden w/ me, and one said after following me for about 150 miles: "NOW I know why they call you 'fast Eddie'!".

I don't ride 'fast', but I do ride in a 'spirited' fashion.

 

Here's my experience. I'm just 1k miles onto my second set of Road 5's. I'm about 156lb in normal clothes and my first set lasted 9k miles. I run the factory 32psi in the front and 1psi less in the rear 35psi. I drop these pressures by 2 psi for cold weather riding because in hairpin turns I could feel some sliding from the tires that I didn't think I should be feeling the pressure correction fixed that. I don't understand how other people are running so much higher pressure and keeping grip on the side of tire...
My tires do wear more on the left side, from the crown of the road I guess, also my front seems to run out tread first. That feathering could just be normal if you are very light on throttle and brake because the siping IS tapered, it is narrow at the top and wider at the bottom. Michelin does this so that water evacuation does not deteriorate with tread depth wear.

 

Thanks for the feedback Bill. You're running similar pressure as I was and doubled my mileage. And it doesn't sound like you saw any feathering.

One notable difference, you are about 70 lbs lighter than me.

What percentage of those 9,000 miles would you guess were highway miles?

Thanks again for your response!

 

So the title of this thread is Michelin Road 5 Normal Wear? pretty big, pretty clear. So if I asked for some feedback on CompuFire regulators, posting a polaris explanation 4012941 SH wouldn't help me, it may help others . But that sort of detracts from the original thread. I did a post earlier and said I would post. These tires have roughly 14,000 KM on them. Today I got a second opinion and the rear is due to be replaced, price and availability will be given to me tomorrow . The front looks brand new, I run 38 PSI in it and hot it hits 41LBs the rear I run 42 PSI and hot it is 46LBs. I noticed it has started losing air, so today both were 39PSI just warming up. I suspect the rear is near the end of it's life, as you can see the center is at the wear bars. Obviously I don't corner enough. I took some side shots which show how the side is travelling towards cupping. ( someone will have a better explanation, been a long day, that is all my brain can come up with now)
I mentioned the weight in the last post, but with the Trekker side cases, the Givi top case, my two mortar rounds with 4 liters of fuel . I am guessing I have around 70 pounds, plus my weight with full gear, is about 97KG

 

Isn't it better to follow manufacture recommendation - 36/32 PSI cold? if you run 42psi cold, it will be around 46 hot. A bit too much no? Versys 1000 is supposed to have 42/36psi cold.

actually, this tread answered my question: Versys Tyre pressures, a Guide FWIW

However, i am still wondering. I live in a very hot climate - should I lower the PSI a bit since the tire is already warm?

 

This is excellent feedback Onewizard! Thank you for the photos. You make a fairly strong case for me to give the Road 5's another shot, but to run them at significantly higher pressures than I had been running. It's rather shocking that you have that many miles on those tires and they still look that good. Sounds like you might be doing more highway riding than me. I avoid highways as much as possible unless I'm late for something or dodging rain.

I assume you're running stock suspension, correct? If not, I'd love to hear what upgrades you've made.

Thanks again for your insight!

 

As bill mentioned 9K miles is 15,000 Kilometers . My bike is lowered with Speedy lowering link, the front is lowered as to his instructions. That TPM is key and it is unbelievable, pouring rain , charge twice a year, the least vibration turns it on, and lack of turns it off. I figure I have another 1000 KM left on the tire but have one on order .I owe this info to @quexpress see post 28 about the 10% rule Tire Pressure Monitoring System / TPMS

 

Post 20 shows my tire pressure monitor. The rating on my rear tire says 42 PSI COLD and that capital lettering matches what is on the tire, I think some people don't pay attention. So going back to my 07 Versys 650 , my Michelins lasted less than 9000 KM, I was told that 32 and 36 wasn't enough. So with my 2015 I was running 36 and 40. After I installed my tire pressure monitor and @quexpress did a post on the 10% rule , I bumped my pressure up to maximum. That hot tire pressure never changes except when we are near 6'C , then I lower it as they don't warm up as much. But even when the pavement is at or above 34'C , the pressure never goes above 10% , so 46 hot is very common for the rear. My front is normally 40 to 41 hot ( this is at speeds at or above 100 KM/HR ) at reduced speed for extended periods, say 36 KM/HR both front and rear drop to 39 and 42 to 43. I am now seeing the rear lose air, I suspect that I am nearing tire failure as the center is down to the wear strips.

 

as I live in hot climate, i decided now to put 41/35psi. does it sound about right. by the way, does the TPM from Alibaba has the battery outside or inside the tire? I would not want to have to open the tire in order to change batteries.

 

Tire Pressure Monitoring System / TPMS sensors are outside

Sensor mounted with locking nut, battery is self contained and turns on with wheel rotation

Before

 

Tire Pressure Monitoring System / TPMS sensors are outside

Sensor mounted with locking nut, battery is self contained and turns on with wheel rotation

Before
View attachment 183476

cool. thank you. it is a useful device also to notice that has a puncture slowly leaking air.

 

I learned a long time ago to ignore the "recommendations", it's for the OEM tires which may have stiff sidewalls like Bridgestones, where are the flexy sidewalls of Michelins need a lot more. The OEM recommendation may also be for comfort, as we wouldn't want you test riding a bike and finding it harsh...... whatever..... doesn't seem it matters which bike, I end up 38-40 front for the lighter ones and 40-42 for the heavier sport tourers. Rears 42 at least.... never had an issue or concern with grip either way.
Your tires will wear more evenly, handle better and should last a bit longer due to the reduced build-up of heat. Colder weather, sure drop them a coupla psi to ensure proper warmup.
Experiment, find what works for you....

 

The very best investment I ever made was that tire pressure monitor. Hard to believe but a charge lasts more than 6 months, vibration turns it on and lack of turns it off. I think the cost was a bit more than a tank of gas . I think I have over 10,000 KM on that monitor . i was concerned about the senders coming off, been over tons of rough roads, no longer think about it. No question something is going wrong with my rear tire. Losing 3 LBS while the front remains the same, indicates something wrong. And not the sending unit.

 

Maximum tire pressures stated on tire sidewalls are the pressures necessary to carry the maximum weight the tire is rated for. The V650 is about 100lbs lighter than a V1000 and like 200lbs lighter than a Concours 14 so there is no reason a V650 should be at or near maximum rated tire pressure. If you want to go by sidewall ratings the correct way is to interpolate the max weight vs max pressure to the weight of the vehicle.

If you are a heavy guy maybe the GT version of the tire will you give you claimed life. I looked into the difference when I was shopping my first set and Michelin recommends the GT for bikes weighing 600lbs+ (sans rider & luggage) iirc.

 

Well 15,000 km isn't bad for a tire. So far I have had 2 pilot road 3s and now 2 road 5s . Maybe I should get the GT , right now I have a deposit on the road 5. I will look at that GT . That 10 % rule really works. Several other posters seem in the same ball park.

 

Tires with double compound last longer, like my Pirelli Angel GT. they just refuse to get worn.

it is good to know that the TPM from Alibaba is reliable. I ordered 2 sets for my two Versyses.

I see on another website similar, even cheaper units, not sure if equally good. with Chinese stuff it is often hit and miss.

Motorcycle Tire Pressure Monitor System Moto TPMS Auto Bike Tyre Alarm LCD Real Time Monitor for Two-Wheeled Motorcycle | Lazada.co.th

Motorcycle Tire Pressure Monitor System Moto TPMS Auto Bike Tyre Alarm LCD Real Time Monitor for Two-Wheeled Motorcycle 1. Cute and compact LCD digital display.2. Two rounds of tests are run at the same time. A display shows the tire pressure and the tire temperature.3. The unit of tire...

www.lazada.co.th

Wireless Motorcycle TPMS Tire Pressure Monitoring System Solar External Sensor LCD Display Temperature Monitor Alarm | Lazada.co.th

Wireless Motorcycle TPMS Tire Pressure Monitoring System Solar External Sensor LCD Display Temperature Monitor Alarm Product Name: motorcycle tire pressure monitoring display screenWorking frequency: 433.92mhzWorking voltage: 5VWorking current: 28ahProduct Name: tire pressure sensorWorking...

www.lazada.co.th

 

I had a link at one time, reliable seller and got it in a week from China Just double checked, at the time $34. This guy is really good. I was shocked, I have had things take longer from the US
Benzc vip store

37.96US $ 29% OFF|M3 Smart Car Tpms Tyre Pressure Monitoring System External Sensor Realtime Monitor Alarm System Motorcycle Digital Lcd Display - Tire Pressure Alarm - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

onewizard, thank you. i ordered before from the same link. it is supposed to come with DHL so hopefully not taking too long.

I was just wondering why tires lose air pressure, even if there is no visible damage. apparently, this is due to osmosis and it is normal to lose 1-3 psi per month. with new tire, this process is slowed down. an old tire is more prone to losing air. i just changed tires in my crf supermoto, where I previously sealed the spokes with Goop. the front tire was losing air too quickly, so hopefully changing the tires will fix the issue. they were like 5 years old and rather worn out. i fitted Pirelli Angel City, nice tires for commuting.

 

Seeking feedback from any and all who are running the Michelin Road 5's. I'm getting unexpectedly fast wear and pronounced feathering of the rubber at the rear edges of the sipes on my rear tire (when looking down at the top of the tire). The feathering is slightly more pronounced on the left side than the right, but is present on all. It's as though I'm being heavy on the rear brake going thru corners, but I don't believe I am.

Have you ever checked and adjusted your rear wheel alignment? The axle aligning marks on the swingarm are usually found to be quite off for proper sprocket/chain/rear wheel alignment. Mine has to be ahead by half the distance between 2 alignment marks on one side to be aligned as it should... This can be checked with a straight edge on rear sprocket towards front sprocket, or with a Motion-Pro alignment tool.

 

Yep, I have the Motion-pro alignment tool. IMO it's OK, not perfect. Wish the alignment pin was longer.

But yes, I do take extra care to ensure the alignment is as close to spot-on as I can make it.

 

I use a laser alignment tool. i would think it is more accurate as points further on the chain, but i am not sure.

 

This looks like it would be much more effective than the Motion-pro alignment tool. I'll definitely look into getting one of these.

Thanks Kris!

 

I have one and it was in a thread by @quexpress

Chain Alignment / Chain replacement / Chain Video

Oh yeah every time. Don't depend on the marks on the swingarm to get things lined up right. I have a Motion Pro gauge I use now but I have used cord before . Pull the tow frame covers off the left and right side that cover the swingarm bolt and measure from the center of the bolt the the center...

www.kawasakiversys.com

New Owners- watch that chain adjustment

Just a reminder to anyone just coming on board that the Versys is notorious for having chain adjuster tick marks that are slightly off. Seems not everyone has the issue, but many have. I am not sure if it is as noticeable on the 3rd gen models. Eddie, Others who have had both can comment on...

www.kawasakiversys.com

 

I have the Profi Cat laser tool. a regular rod will never come close to the precision of laser beam. one can make very fine adjustment as the beam can reach even to the front sprocket if one takes the sprocket cover out.

 

I have tried +4-5psi in front and rear tires and I did not like the handling in the twisty curves as much as my normal 32/36. To each his own.

 

Definitely won't all agree. Especially since I'm talking a variety of bikes of different weights.. (FJR, V1000, VFR, CBF1000 is the current stable). You have to decide what's right for you despite others' opinions, but experimentation will get you there.

 

Looked at the site, first time for everything.

 

Well out of curiosity, once my new PR5 gets here, I will try 40 PSI in the rear and see what the temp is hot. May even try 38PSI, easy to add air. I will also weigh everything on the bike. It may turn out the total weight is equal to 2up.

 

In addition to the things that a rider carries on the bike, all the add-ons to a stock bike must be considered. My bike has been more a process of elimination of parts and it is slightly lighter than it was when new. But that's my minimalist approach, many may differ, and that's fine. C'est la vie!

Side cases with metal mounts (they were soft saddlebags back when I rode my first motorcycle out of the cave), top cases now too, crash bars, skid plates, light bars, gidgits & gadgets, taller screens, handguards, cameras- the list is endless. All add weight.

It would be interesting to learn what all those accessories add to the weight of the bike. Then add the difference in a, well, portly rider's weight plus riding gear and additional tire wear must be factored in.

 

Side cases with metal mounts (they were soft saddlebags back when I rode my first motorcycle out of the cave)

..and your still riding, now that is impressive!

I've only been riding on the street since 1980 and my first street bike was a 1977 Yamaha XS750 with frame mounted fairing and hard saddlebags. Hope I'm still riding in 25 years!