I had that happen when I tried using an aftermarket stator.
The Regulator looks to be an aftermarket one says tour max on it I removed it to check and clean the connectorTypical problem with the spade connectors oxidizing and overheating. Your fix is to cut them off, use splices and solder the wires.
That is, if you're keeping the original regulator.... a better fix is an upgraded regulator......
I will give it a try here, many seem bent on following the Kawasaki service manual--I am at a point that I really don't care if you follow my testing or not--My take on the service manual if you follow their tests and you buy a meter strictly to follow their test. Save some money and just take the stator cover off after draining the oil. If you have a meter and want to know 99.99% for sure if the stator is good or failed follow my post. I have recently explained how I arrived at this test, it isn't patentable so I don't care who uses it.The Regulator looks to be an aftermarket one says tour max on it I removed it to check and clean the connector
Not sure about the stator if its aftermarket or not
Battery is not charging at all now ( no surprise )
If I probe the wires from the stator on Vac and run the engine around 4k I see about 11V ac but could be due to poor connection with all the melted plastic but I suspect the stator is prob toast
I have some new oil and filter there so I will prob pull it off to have a look
Howdy OnewizardI will give it a try here, many seem bent on following the Kawasaki service manual--I am at a point that I really don't care if you follow my testing or not--My take on the service manual if you follow their tests and you buy a meter strictly to follow their test. Save some money and just take the stator cover off after draining the oil. If you have a meter and want to know 99.99% for sure if the stator is good or failed follow my post. I have recently explained how I arrived at this test, it isn't patentable so I don't care who uses it.
S10 This is a reference to keep track of Edited threads 2020 , eventually I will remove this . Very time consuming but I am trying to keep only pertinent info in these threads. More of a simple, very quick and extremely accurate test, to prove if any stator damage has occurred. Basically, use...www.kawasakiversys.com
Welcome to the Burnt Stator Club. I think congratulations are in order as you used my test method!!Right so I cut off the burnt connector in the previous post and stripped back some insulation
Warmed up the bike and set about some testing
View attachment 183701
View attachment 183702
View attachment 183703
A to B = 8.9V AC
B to C =11.5 AC
C to A =6.2 AC
Removed the Stator and to be Honest it does not look as bad as some I have seen here
View attachment 183704
View attachment 183705
yep no worries I will do that tomorrow as it is late in the evening now almost 10pm here in the garden countyI am going to ask a favour, could you use an ohmmeter and measure A to B etc. and post that. Also if you have a setting of REL on your meter, select ohms and select REL, with your leads shorted out, what REL does is subtract the value of your leads from when you do the measurements, anytime you change ranges you need to do that again. Another way is short out your leads and mark down the value, subtract that from your final reading of A - B etc. Also if you have a Low Ohms setting, use that the same way.
Very good explanation. I am not sure if he followed my advice about REL, his meter has it, normally it will show in the display to indicate this. I also own a milliohmeter but it is AC and can output up to 100 amp. The AC part is the downfall. That is a excellent example of converting ohms to volts. Your R1 would be good with a 1 watt resistor . Even so, it would never pick up even 10 shorted turns. His readings are a direct example of how fast and accurate that test is. We have had enough people all over the world post values open circuit at different rpms . If for nothing else to prove the issue is more likely the stator and rules the regulator out for later diode testing.Your ohmmeter tries to measure 0.150 ohms with a precision of 0.1 ohms. That's a huge error.
If your voltmeter is better at measuring millivolts than your ohmmeter is at measuring miliiohms, you can do this tension divider:
You would measure a known R1: too small and it's also imprecise and risk too much current, and heating resistors also change resistance.
R1 wattage should preferably be rated well above the wattage it would see.
Rx is the resistance of the stator winding under test.
Let's assume the ohmmeter has an error of 2 ohms on this 220 ohms R1. Let's say 1% error.
V1 may be off by 0.1V on 12V, another 1%,
and off by 1mV on ~9.2 mV, so ~10%.
I think we can expect 1.01 * 1.01 * 1.10 = 1.12211
i.e. ~12% error on the Rx measure.
That's better, but unlikely to find a few shorted turns...
I think the ac voltage ( and balance across phases) at fixed rpms and under some load, is a much more revealing measure of the health of the stator.
The wizard is right...
Yep Shorted the leads and pressed REL you can see it in the first photo in top left of the display triangle shapeI am not sure if he followed my advice about REL, his meter has it,