Kawasaki Versys Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, I feel like I've been taking good care of my 2008 Versys, but while ordering up a new set of radiator hoses and a fresh fuel line, I notice in the manual that it calls for a rebuild of the master cylinders and calipers in the brake system, including new hoses and rubber bits.

Has anyone actually done this?

I started adding all these parts to my order and was kind of amazed at just how many parts there are, and how much money they want for the hoses. If this is indeed recommended, I think I may tackle the front next year, then the rear the year after.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
596 Posts
If you're buying new brake lines, definitely upgrade to stainless. As far as rebuilding the calipers, I rarely do it, right or wrong. However, every time I change brake pads, or about once a year whichever is first, when I remove the calipers and remove the pads, I gently pump the lever to push the calipers out a bit (doing one side at a time), then clean with simple green, rinse, use a bit of brake cleaner (not too much, claim it can damage the rubber seals), dry with compressed air. I think routinely keeping them clean helps.

That being said, I did finally rebuild the front calipers on my '07 gsxr track-only bike. One piston was stuck, so I figured it was time. I did have to rebuild the rear master cylinder on my '01 cbr 929 when it was about 10 years old because it stuck.

It can be a pain to get the pistons out when there's more than one. Compressed air works, but, of course, one of 4 on my gixxer popped out only. I purchased a caliper puller tool, worked great for removing the pistons.

I'd say clean them first, and ensure both move when you gently pump the lever. If any are stuck, or you're getting uneven pad wear, it may be time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well, this is relieving. I did notice the stainless lines, and figured I couldn't go wrong there. I can't imagine what a dealership would charge for the brake overhaul, perhaps the $1200 service after 4 years is some incentive to just trade the bike in?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
596 Posts
$1200 for service? That's in Ducati territory, LOL. Maybe because I do a lot of routine stuff myself, but my Japanese bikes cost me maybe $400-$500 every few years when I need plugs/valve adjustment. I don't do valves, and the sparkplugs are just a pita to get out.

Other routine stuff, such as oil changes, brake line replacement, brake fluid and pad replacement, are pretty easy to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
I have a 2008 and have not done it. I keep mine inside and the rubber parts are in good shape. Brakes still work well and bsides changing the breake fluid and anti freeze fluid I haven't done anything else you mentioned above. I have 20,000 miles on it.

For me, I look at the condition of the rubber parts for deterioration and if they look as if they are getting old, I will change them out then.

I may do the calipers when I put in new breake pads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
596 Posts
You got 20k miles on a set of brake pads? I forgot how long things like that last on a street bike! Hahaha, on my track bike, if I do a dozen days, I go through 2 sets of brake pads, two front tires, and 4 rear tires. LOL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,608 Posts
Most of this is bs to generate business for dealerships. If I was gonna change coolant hoses I would go with Cusco silicone, cheaper, better. Mastercylinder does't need it. Calipers need to be cleaned occasionally. Blow the pistons out, clean the bores and piston with fine steel wool, clean the groves with a dental tool, "wash" the seals with brake fluid and reuse the if they look good. The inner seal will last about forever. The outer is generally reuseable, too. Don't use anything to clean with but soap and water or brake fluid.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
19,441 Posts
FWIW - my '08 V has 51,xxx miles on it. The battery, chain (I use WD40 ONLY), brake pads, brake lines (a new set of SS lines will go on in October), bearings in the steering-stem, wheels and swing-arm, rear sprocket (reversed at 29,xxx miles) are ALL ORIGINAL, as in they are what CAME WHEN IT LEFT THE FACTORY. (And I tend to get around 55 mpG US....)

:yeahsmile: - :thumb: - :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
When you buy stainless lines, stay away from Wesmoto. Stick with Galfer. Much better quality.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
I'm rebuilding my front master tomorrow. Starting to leak fluid past the piston and getting pad drag signaling failure of seals in the piston.

Rebuilt the rear master a couple years ago after a drp bent the piston rod. About a 30 minute job and very easy.

Also adding new SS lines all around, changing fluid all around and upgrading to EBC HH pads. Then spending an hour or so re-learning my brakes.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top