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Discussion Starter #1
As many others on this forum have already said: Lube your cables.

For the clutch it is also important to lube the barrel at the top of the cable, so that it can rotate in its socket, so as not to bend and fatigue the cable.

I have hand guards on my Versys which obscure that clutch cable barrel, so I got complacent and ignored checking and lubing it.

Today, on the highway about 2 miles from the office: Snap! Clutch handle against the hand grip. Oops.
I made it to the office with clutchless shifting and luck that the lights were green. I have a replacement cable at home, but now I have the challenge of getting that to my Versys here at the office. Oh well, I will figure it out.
 

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Wow, bummer. Nice to see you made it to work, but how did you stop the bike without the clutch? That must have been a little rough...
When you get around to do the replacement and lube, take a few pictures to point out where we need to squirt the goo and what kind if you have a preference.
 

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I have been lazy lately too. I need to go home today and do some maintenance. Glad you were not out in the middle of nowhere when it happened.
I carry a spare under my seat with an extra for my wifes bike too. Not easy finding a way to wrap them so they don't kink, but it can be done.
Good luck on the fix.
 

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Wow, bummer. Nice to see you made it to work, but how did you stop the bike without the clutch? That must have been a little rough...
When you get around to do the replacement and lube, take a few pictures to point out where we need to squirt the goo and what kind if you have a preference.
Clutchless shifting, put it (get it) in neutral, apply brakes...
 

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As many others on this forum have already said: Lube your cables.

For the clutch it is also important to lube the barrel at the top of the cable, so that it can rotate in its socket, so as not to bend and fatigue the cable.

I have hand guards on my Versys which obscure that clutch cable barrel, so I got complacent and ignored checking and lubing it.

Today, on the highway about 2 miles from the office: Snap! Clutch handle against the hand grip. Oops.
I made it to the office with clutchless shifting and luck that the lights were green. I have a replacement cable at home, but now I have the challenge of getting that to my Versys here at the office. Oh well, I will figure it out.
How many miles did you get out of the cable?

Richard
 

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FWIW after I lubed the clutch cable it still didn't feel right, so I checked the routing. I found the cable bracket that's on the frame behind the steering head was pinching the cables so tight there was a dimple in the clutch cable cover. I pulled it away, and the clutch now feels perfect. Just an easy thing to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow, bummer. Nice to see you made it to work, but how did you stop the bike without the clutch? That must have been a little rough...
When you get around to do the replacement and lube, take a few pictures to point out where we need to squirt the goo and what kind if you have a preference.
Can't take pics now, but I meant the barrel at the top of the clutch cable, that gets held by the clutch lever.
I would just use the Dupont teflon lube that I also use for my chain, but any lubricant will do (grease, oil, teflon, banana peel).
 

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Good point - have an extra. Where is the best place to get the best price on a spare cable?

Thanks,

Shaun
 

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Hey Shaun, I just ordered mine through the dealer. I can't remember how much I paid for it but you should check around. Might save a few bucks.
I been stuck before with a broken cable and could not get one locally. What an ordeal!
 

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Had one snap on my last bike.
Bought the $12 cable lube tool. Like most everything else sold at CycleGear, it's a POS.

Big honkin' syringe works better.
 

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I carry a spare under my seat with an extra for my wifes bike too. Not easy finding a way to wrap them so they don't kink, but it can be done. ......
A good place to carry spare cable is to route spare alongside connected clutch cable. Repair is much easier if you do break cable ball end. Have never had clutch cable issue since I began keeping ball end at lever well lubed.
 

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I bought those cable lubrication devices, alluminum, very small and easy to use.
I just put WD40 on it and I could see how dirt comes out from the other end... that's the way to know it's working... but I must say I have WD40 leaks in the device (is not much hermethic) while doing this so have a cloth in your hand or put below the operation area.
 

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"Leaks" is an understatement.
You're a non-native speaker, so your input is still welcome.

More comes out of the device than actually goes in.
It's a matter of the design - the rubber enclosure doesn't fully seal around the ball end.

If you haven't yet, I suggest you try to re-route the cable around the top clamp. Invader and others report a smoother pull from the relieved kink in that area.
And definitely put a good glob of grease around the barrel, where it holds in the lever. That's where my last one broke. Repeated stress on the cable due to the little barrel seizing to the hole instead of twisting inside it.

If anybody needs a Big Ol' Syringe, let me know. Our animal lab uses them - I could probably scrounge up a box.
Or, we could just set up a circuit - mailing it around.
 

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I have never given any thought to lubing cables on any of my motorcycles, never had one break, but think I may want to learn the proper way to do this.

Can anyone post a few links to a good cable lubing device that you have personally used that works well? Also any photos of how to use such tooling! I assume you need to unhook the cable from both ends before beginning??? I am a complete newbie at this but feel that I should take a preventative stance since cable fatigue and snapping seem to be a little more common on this bike from all the stories I read.

Thanks!

Kirk
 

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I have the same or a similar device. I wrap a shop towel around it to minimize the lube spraying everywhere. I think I got it at the "local" (80 miles away) Cycle Gear but I have seen them in most motorcycle shops.
 

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Hey Capn'

FWIW, I simply remove the top end, hold it up with wire pulled out, use 3 in 1 oil, it has a small tip, drip it into sheath, move cable wire up and down, repeat, takes 5 min. and notice a little dampness at lower rubber boot, DONE, put blob of grease on the barrel, insert and adjust, ensuring the adjuster slots are facing down and/or back so as not to collect water in the sheath.
Ride On!
Good vid, btw.
CHEERS!
 
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