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Discussion Starter #1
I lowered my rear shock with a block that just repositioned the lower attachment point 2 inches higher (which somehow makes the bike go lower - MAGIC!). Do I need to lower my front end too? Handling hasn't been affected yet, at least not that I can tell. Thank you!
 

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lowering the rear affects front end geometry, more rake and more trail. this affects the way the machine responds to steering inputs (more like a cruiser, less like a sportbike, generally). whether or not it's noticeable depends upon how and how much you rode before/after the changes. you may have adapted without knowing. it probably handles as if you are carrying a passenger. this may be exaggerated if you load up for touring. or maybe not so much, if you are a lightweight with a high preload setting.

with a right-side-up fork, you would just slide the tubes up in the triple clamps. not sure if that works for the USD forks, haven't had a look at them. if not, maybe shorter springs or spacers will do it. either way, if it were my bike, i would level it out, returning it to its original stance so that the only loss, compared to a stock bike, would be ground clearance.

i would think the installer of the dogbones would take care of this -- should have known to initially.
 

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+1

I just took a quick look at mine because I couldn't remember what the tubes looked like in the clamps. Yes, drop the fork tubes, works just like a standard fork. The stock setting is about 1/4" to 3/8" showing on top - there's a groove indicator on the top of the fork tube. Loosen the clamps and run them up to where the taper starts below the lower clamp. You should get about a half to three quarters of an inch. Will balance it up nicely and save you a bunch of headache fiddle-farting around with springs and spacers and such.

If that isn't enough then yeah, you'll have to get a suspension shop to lower them for you by internally modifying the fork legs.
 

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+ what everybody else said, although I would say 'raise' the fork tubes up in the triple clamp, this has the effect of lowering the stearing head. To do this you will need to remove the front wheel and maybe fairings(?) (no big deal), at least on other bikes where I have done this I had to remove the wheel.

I think it is worthwhile to fix this as the stock geometry yields a very nice handeling bike. In general, especially for a road going bike, unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing (I sure dont), messing with the bikes geometry is not a good idea. It probably wont cause a malfunction...but you have a 'slower' responding bike...

If seat height was the issue a low gel seat would have been a first step followed by lower suspension front and aft...pretty sure that is how the manufactures do it...to keep the geometry/handeling intact. Maybe this was your approach.

Good you are taking initiative to make the bike work for you!

T
 

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No need to remove the front wheel. Do each side one at a time. Loosen two of the three bolts first, then, very slowly loosen the third bolt, until the fork just starts to move. Keep one hand on the fork tube to keep it from moving too fast. Let the tube move to the desired height, then tighten all screws. Repeat for other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone! I'll do it this weekend.
Puttman: I was going for the lowered seat first but I was getting it used from an owner and it turned out to be the wrong seat. He had the lowering link so I just did that instead. I needed it lowered immediately. Plus that seat is like $500. Stupid. Why are parts for this bike so expensive??? I thought this bike was supposed to be cheap compared to the BMWs!
 

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The factory gel seat is stupid expensive. Some have bought them and seem to like them. Contact Baldwin and ask about a lowered seat profile. My mod created a seat pan about and inch and a half lower but the front didn't change so it didn't make much difference for standing up at a stop. Sure is comfy though. Scott's basic seat mod is like $300, the bulk of which I'm sure his a fancy new cover. Great looking seats and his customers love them.

The fork drop is an easy adjustment and will help a bunch as well as balance out the lowered rear.
 

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Check out Baldwin customs seats. They know how to modify the seat with precision and quality. The seat will help you it lower your position a little.
 

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I've lowered my bike with the rear motowerk block and per their recommendations lowered the front fork tubes. No big deal, just measure and do one side at a time. If you are not careful you can drop the bike straight through the tree. I had mine suspended to take the weight off the front end while doing this. Just have to do a little thinking and plan your work out.
 

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Keep in mind you cant lower the front forks as much as a rear lowering block or Hyperpro spring lowers the rear. I lowered my forks last weekend and with a helper it was extremely easy, even easier than switching the rear spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lowered the front end last night

Did a whole round of easy mods last night!

Add a second brake light - CHECK
Adjust the foot brake so the brake light comes on early - CHECK
Lower front end as much as possible so the bike balances out - CHECK
Did all of these things on my friend's bike as well - CHECK

Pretty good for an hour of work!

The lowered front end was quite easy, as you all suggested it would be. I used the two-page instructions from Motowerk (thanks Fastoman) and it was a cinch. I put my two big strong men on the job of holding the bike up while I adjusted and they did so as if their lives depended on it. It didn't look very different and it was only around .8 inches lower, but when I got on my V it was obvious my bike had finally arrived! 500 miles on it so far and I just now fell completely in love with it! THANKS EVERYONE!
 
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