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Discussion Starter #1
Riding home tonight, oil light came on. Stopped and looked down, site glass was showing full. Light went off after a few seconds, then came back on and stayed on. Stopped at the store, bike sat parked maybe 45 minutes, came back out light was off when I started riding. But at the first light, it came on for a few seconds then went off. Dealer suspects either sensor or something plugging the filter. Guess I player "cager" for a few days while they sort it out.
 

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IF you do any 'trouble-shooting' - I suggest you check the grounds for anything related to the light or switch.

When my temp gauge started going full hot on my KLR coming back from Alaska, the problem was fixed when I cleaned up the ground connection.
:goodluck:
 

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This may not go over well, but I have had the oil light come on in an older engine. Used seafoam as directed (ounce per quart) for 40 or so miles. Actually cleared something out because the light hasn't come on again. (about 40K miles ago - now has 195K).

If it's at the dealer - it's there. If this happened to me on a bike out of warrantee, I'd go with Seafoam first.

If I know I am changing the oil after work on any of our cars or bikes, I add a 1/2 ounce per quart. Not every time, but once in a while. Drive to work and back (about 40 miles) then do the oil change. I know it sounds like snake oil, but I literally saved an engine this way ....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, picked it up today from the dealer. They claim, it was an air pocket in the crankcase that blocked the sending unit from getting a proper reading. They bled the oil system, topped it off, the mechanic rode is 15 miles without problem. I put another 3 on it after I picked it up with issue, so we'll see.
 

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fwiw I have never ever not once even heard of an air pocket in the crankcase. And I have been driving for over 50 years.

but I realize I do not know everything yet

:goodluck:
 

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I had this happen to me when bike was new. I ordered a new sensor, based on what I read about this on the web. It went away after first oil change, still have the sensor I bought.
 

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Well, picked it up today from the dealer. They claim, it was an air pocket in the crankcase that blocked the sending unit from getting a proper reading. They bled the oil system, topped it off, the mechanic rode is 15 miles without problem. I put another 3 on it after I picked it up with issue, so we'll see.
Why do dealers feel the need to cheat and lie all the time? There is no crankcase bleeding procedure. It bleeds itself on its own.
No charge? Is it on warranty? Does the oil pressure warning lamp still go on with ignition on, before starting engine, and does it go out quickly when you do start it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah the bike is under warranty still ( I bought it with only 10 miles on the odo from the dealer). The light comes on when the key is first turned on then goes out as soon as the engine starts.
 

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30 year mechanic here. There is NO bleed procedure. Its bull ****. The oil system pushes all air out as soon as you start the bike.

It may need a sender or they may have put one in.

David
 

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I use Seafoam in both my car and bike (and lawnmower).Wish I had discovered it sooner in life.


This may not go over well, but I have had the oil light come on in an older engine. Used seafoam as directed (ounce per quart) for 40 or so miles. Actually cleared something out because the light hasn't come on again. (about 40K miles ago - now has 195K).

If it's at the dealer - it's there. If this happened to me on a bike out of warrantee, I'd go with Seafoam first.

If I know I am changing the oil after work on any of our cars or bikes, I add a 1/2 ounce per quart. Not every time, but once in a while. Drive to work and back (about 40 miles) then do the oil change. I know it sounds like snake oil, but I literally saved an engine this way ....
 

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I use Seafoam in both my car and bike (and lawnmower).Wish I had discovered it sooner in life.
The idea of using seafoam that's created by the agitation of seawater, particularly when it contains higher concentrations of dissolved organic matter doesn't quite appeal to me :( ... I guess you can collect it for free by the coast in Florida.
 

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Homebrew Seafoam: http://hildstrom.com/projects/seafoam/index.html

I've been using Lucas Fuel Conditioner... They now have a fuel system cleaner:

Lucas Deep Clean is blended with an exclusive Lucas additive package and specific carrier fluid that contains no diesel fuel (Seafoam), kerosene or anything else that can be harmful or useless to an engine.

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=269&catid=8&loc=show

I wouldn't use additives in my engine oil though... Quality synthetic oils like Amsoil AFF 0W-40 have excellent cleaning properties.
 
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