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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Yesterday I changed the oil and filter (in preparation for my ride to Nova Scotia which starts Sunday AM) in my Gen 3 650LT. Among the three Vs I have (or HAD), I've probably changed oil & filter at least 35 times, so, I AM careful, and when it was completed, I started the engine.

USUALLY the red "LOW oil pressure light" goes out after a FEW SECONDS, but yesterday it stayed ON, so after (maybe) 20 seconds I turned the ignition OFF, and checked for anything obviously wrong or leaking. Everything was normal so I restarted, but that light stayed ON (NO expensive engine noises), so I gave it 45 to 60 seconds light STILL ON, then shut it OFF again.

As I could see this REALLY impacting my ride east, I said a little prayer (to God, of course!) asking for guidance, then pondered what could be the issue - PERHAPS a failure in the oil-filter...?

About that time my phone rang, so I 'picked-up' to be connected w/ one of God's right-hand-angels (happens to live in the E part of the US of A, VA I believe...;)...) who re-canted a tale about a fellow Versys owner of an '08, who became stranded on the Dempster Hwy when his V, covered in mud, suddenly showed a "LOW oil pressure light". That fellow decided to get his bike picked-up and brought to Whitehorse (for an OBSCENE amount of $, EVEN if they're Canadian!), where the mechanic removed some mud, then pulled the electrical connection from the oil-pressure sender, cleaned it and put some dielectric grease in, then re-attached it, started the engine - NO "LOW oil pressure light" anymore. The V owner asked what he owed - "Nothing, because I really did nothing!" was the reply, but after the rider insisting on paying SOMETHING, the mechanic mentioned a LARGE++ pizza from a pizza shop down the road which he duly received.

I checked my SERVICE MANUAL for its location, removed the cover. Everything was bright and clean, but I pulled it off, used a little steel-wool on it, loaded it up w/ dielectric grease, re-attached it, then said another little prayer...:p..., hit the starter.... The "LOW oil pressure light" went OUT after a couple of seconds....

YIPPEE! - :thumb: - :thumb:

I dialed the number on my 'call-display' but only got the "God's right-hand-angel's" answering machine, so I added that my problem was FIXED, then hung-up.

Several minutes later my phone rang - AGAIN it was that "angel from VA" - I thanked him, then continued my trip-preps....:thanx:....

I might NOT have mentioned that during my ride E I'll be connecting w/ someone who a LOT of you will be familiar w/ from his "build threads" here, as well as advice he's given to many of us w/ problems, and goes by the 'handle' of "jdrocks", but his name is Dave.:cool:

SOMETIME during the ride I believe I may be called upon to share a "LARGE++ pizza" w/ Dave....:yeahsmile:

:exactly:
 

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I checked my SERVICE MANUAL for its location, removed the cover. Everything was bright and clean, but I pulled it off, used a little steel-wool on it, loaded it up w/ dielectric grease, re-attached it, then said another little prayer...:p..., hit the starter.... The "LOW oil pressure light" went OUT after a couple of seconds....
Great tip! Where is this sensor Ed?
Thanks!
 

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I am not Ed

Great tip! Where is this sensor Ed?
Thanks!
Kind of funny, did a google search which used this forum ; http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/9-technical-discussion/9942-oil-pressure-switch.html?highlight=oil+pressure+switch , opened the manual from the How To section, 7-17, and there it is hiding beside the oil filter, require removal of the right lower faring .
I would be checking how tight the sensor was, as it uses the engine ground, and is a switch that makes under proper pressure, so even though there is no info on this as to testing that I could find ( electrical testing). What can be done is use a ohm meter on the lowest setting, go from engine ground to the sensor, should be above 1000 ohms, start the motor and it should be less than 2 ohms ( this is a random value I pulled) next chance I get I will connect a 100 ohm potentiometer and see at what point the light goes out and comes on.

:rolleyes:
For most of the members here, don't read any further.

I have a further tip, as to cleaning oxide off the contacts using a battery drill or flash light, will explain later. This is something I discovered during my career, many devices are communicating electronically, as a example the temperature sensor is a resistive temperature device RTD, it changes in value as it gets hotter or colder.The problem comes in when we use old technology ( contact closure ) to signal a condition and this closure which happens to be the case on the oil pressure switch, communicates with a computer or logic controller or other device, as the current is usually 0.001 to 0.003 Amps. What is usually done these days is install gold flashed contacts, have a sealed read switch with bifurcated contacts or a combination of gold flash and other methods. The problem comes in when the price comes into play, many times they use silver oxide, I have had new contacts in a sealed plastic bag, that had been sitting 2 years, reading 100 ohms on the normally open and 20 ohms on the normally closed. A current of about 1 to 2 amp is sufficient to blow away the oxide on the contacts and my example went to 0.9 ohms for both states. The very best method is to use a flashlight, like those lantern battery lights with incandescent bulb, you will need a couple small jumpers, put the light in series with the contacts, and turn the light on and off a couple times. If it was the oil pressure switch, you would need to be running the motor with the wire to the ECU disconnected or have a means of pressurizing the switch. The reason for incandescent bulb is there is a inrush current for about 2 milliseconds, that 6 volt lantern light has about a 3.6 watt bulb @ about 0.6 amp, inrush is about 3 amp.

:interesting: :dgi:
 

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Kind of funny, did a google search which used this forum ; http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/9-technical-discussion/9942-oil-pressure-switch.html?highlight=oil+pressure+switch , opened the manual from the How To section, 7-17, and there it is hiding beside the oil filter, require removal of the right lower faring .
I would be checking how tight the sensor was, as it uses the engine ground, and is a switch that makes under proper pressure, so even though there is no info on this as to testing that I could find ( electrical testing). What can be done is use a ohm meter on the lowest setting, go from engine ground to the sensor, should be above 1000 ohms, start the motor and it should be less than 2 ohms ( this is a random value I pulled) next chance I get I will connect a 100 ohm potentiometer and see at what point the light goes out and comes on. I have a further tip, as to cleaning oxide off the contacts using a battery drill or flash light, will explain later.
AWESOME!!!
I found it a few minutes ago and came back to mention page 7-17. As often, I was too slow. :)
Thanks for your link and testing tip. It should prove to be very useful. :thumb:
 

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Kawasaki 500's had an issue like this if you dropped them or changed oil. You often had to "burp" the oil filter to release air and get oil flowing. Often just running them for a tense 1.5 minutes with the oil pressure light on would solve the issue too. Just letting them sit for a few hours would always seem to resolve issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great tip! Where is this sensor Ed?
Thanks!
I see that Glen has answered you, so I'll be a "smart-a$$" and answer TOO...

...in a garage in the N end of Kelowna, BC, but you have to be on your knees to REALLY see it...:wink2:...!
 
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