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Discussion Starter #21
Let me say, if I had a V1000 and was within 500 KM you would be seeing me with my bike.
That's an extremely kind offer! We are too far away from each other but I'm 100% sure you deeply mean it.

So where I am going with this post, it is very admiral to withhold the name, in the hopes this guy comes through for you. I would suggest giving him a link to this thread, no membership is required to view this. I would say that what you describe is 100 % true and you haven't left anything out. I think you realize this forum is a good place to belong to. Even though this is a V1000 thread, the experience may help others on this forum.
As you said, all I wrote is 100% true, at least at the height of my undertsanding of the remap process. I'm no expert at all but I'm an engineer by trade and I can analyse technical discussions.
My goal here is not to expose the guy that made the mistake on my ECU. My goal is to find a solution to this very unpleasing situation. Thanks again guys for your support! It is really appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Oh BTW, some guys (another forum) suggested to visit a Kawasaki dealer thinking they could erase the error code or download the OEM map back in my ECU.
So, FYI, I'm just back from the closest Kawasaki dealer and there's nothing he can do. He said only motocrossers and some hypersport models have changeable ECU "sticks" with some pre-programmed maps.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
What is the error code you get, the test is the same as for the 650 ABS, pushing the left meter button (while in km mode,total mileage registered on bike) and holding the button for 2 or more seconds. The code is displayed lower right of the meter. They may be a way to cheat and tell the ECU that a canister is attached, this has been done, supplying the correct voltage input using a resistor, just going by memory here.
Glen, the error code I get is "3A".
According to repair manual this code is for:
"Purge valve malfunction, wiring open, or short to ground or power supply wire".

The purge valve is an emission part that only California bikes have; I can see it on the wiring diagram for "equipped bikes" (ie: California)
 

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Looked Up Drawing

Well this is one of those cases that you would need to waste about 7 watts of energy to fix the problem.I found some information on the Purge valve, 30 to 34 ohms at 68'F. The problem is it draws about 417 milliamp at 14.2 VDC, which is 5.93 watts. You would need a 10 watt resistor at 30 to 34 ohms , or two 5 watt resistors at 60 to 68 ohms. The way it works is the ECU has shunt resistor that measure voltage drop, let us say 0.1 ohms, so when the purge plug is connected and drawing 417 milliamp the ECU sees 4.17 VDC. My preference would be to get the ECU flash corrected. Just saying, that likely will clear the fault.


 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well this is one of those cases that you would need to waste about 7 watts of energy to fix the problem.I found some information on the Purge valve, 30 to 34 ohms at 68'F. The problem is it draws about 417 milliamp at 14.2 VDC, which is 5.93 watts. You would need a 10 watt resistor at 30 to 34 ohms , or two 5 watt resistors at 60 to 68 ohms. The way it works is the ECU has shunt resistor that measure voltage drop, let us say 0.1 ohms, so when the purge plug is connected and drawing 417 milliamp the ECU sees 4.17 VDC. My preference would be to get the ECU flash corrected. Just saying, that likely will clear the fault.
This is an option that has been mentionned in another forum where I wrote the same request (to borrow an ECU).
Looks like it could work. I even looked to the cost of buying the missing purge valve but I'm not sure my ECU do have the #13 pin where the valve's Red/Yellow wire is to be connected. If I ever choose this option, I will wait my bike to be winter stored and will take the ECU off to look for this #13 pin. But, honestly, I would prefer to solve the problem at the root than converting my bike to California specs only because of the bin file downloaded in my ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
All this being written, today, I spoke with the tuner I dealt with. Looks like he did not forget me as he told me he found the ECU I need that he will borrow from the Kawasaki dealer he knows the owner of.
He will have it sent oversea to Woolich's for them to read the bin file that he will finally download back in my ECU.

All in all, he admitted the first step for him should have been to send my ECU to Woolich the day he received it. He was sorry about this and I believe him.
This guy do have a lot of experience and if all ends well (as both him and I are hoping), this will be a closed case. I don't want to tell who he is as anybody can make mistakes.

To be followed (hopefully before the end of 2019...).
 

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We all make mistakes. The measure of a man is if he admits it and makes it right. I like what I'm reading.

I also wanted to add that for those of us flashing, there really is no book or even guidelines on how to do this stuff. A lot of it is trial and error. After a while you get the hang of it, but for the most part you need to be very self reliant. Because Woolich is widely available, "tuner" are going to pup up all over the place. It's going to take a determined person who understands customer service to make it flashing ECU's. Those who are disreputable will fall by the wayside pretty quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Follow-up just to close the loop.
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A I wrote in post #28, the guy found (and borrowed) a 2018 ECU (same as my 2017's) from a Kawasaki dealer and sent it to Woolich. It came back and I finally received a corrected ECU. I installed it and, as wished, the "engine" light goes off as soon as I started the engine.

I waited until yesterday as it was my first ride of the year and I'm pleased to say that all is perfect now.

I'm very happy that the guy supported me and finally solved my problem.
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NB: Steve, I'm still really interested at having my ECU flashed by you. I'm in no hurry though but let us know when you're ready for 2017/2018 models.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Oh, I forgot...
Steve, you more than likely already know but Woolich racing do have the info about the 2017/2018 Canada & US ECU. I know because the unit with a hole (now sealed) is the one currently installed on my own bike.:)
 

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Oh, I forgot...
Steve, you more than likely already know but Woolich racing do have the info about the 2017/2018 Canada & US ECU. I know because the unit with a hole (now sealed) is the one currently installed on my own bike.:)
yes, I know, I've been working on the 2017-18 files for release.
 

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I have an open silencer and removed the CAT. all I did was fitting the booster plug to compensate. I see no reason to have more power. the bike is TOO powerful already. if you are not racing, why do you need to much power? to kill yourself on the road?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I have an open silencer and removed the CAT. all I did was fitting the booster plug to compensate. I see no reason to have more power. the bike is TOO powerful already. if you are not racing, why do you need to much power? to kill yourself on the road?
Uh? Where did I wrote I want more power?
I think you replied under the wrong post...
 
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