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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so I bought my '09 in March, only 1600 miles. I had been assured by the dealership that everything had been gone over, all scheduled maintenance had been performed. Taking their word for it, I went on with riding, only performing daily checks. After a few thousand miles, my chain slack hit the outside of its tolerance. I went to adjust it and the axle nut was locked tight. I tried hitting it with deep penetrating lube several times with no luck. Upon further inspection, the right hand side of the axle nut was lined up at 2 1/2 lines while the left side was exactly at the third reference line. I have normal wear on my back tire, I would think that if I was out of alignment, I'd notice. Questions...
1. Is my axle f***ed?
2.Could there just be dirt locking the threads, or is it cross threaded? (Hit it with lube several times, had a 16" handle ratchet on it, hitting the end with a hammer. Wouldn't budge.)
3. Assuming there is a problem, do I take it back to the dealer I bought it from? Purchased as is, no warrenty. If they said they serviced everything prior to sale, wouldn't they notice a cocked rear axle (if that is the problem)? Otherwise, their work was shoddy enough that the axle slid, either way that nut was not at the 80 lbs. of torque suggested. If I'm gonna spend money on getting my chain slack adjusted (of the simplest of things), I'd rather not have it serviced by the same idiots that did it the last time (if they did it at all), but they're the only licensed Kawi mechanics around.
Either way, my rear axle seems to be torqued, and I need some help. Any suggestions?!?
 

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80 ft lbs takes a lot of force, and maybe its locktite'd. Put some heat to it, and get a longer wrench/breaker bar or beat the piss out of the 16" with a hammer. I wouldn't worry about the 1/2 line of variance between the sides.:goodluck:

ETA: I usually require my 14" breaker bar with a 1" box end wrench on the end for a total of a 26" lever arm to break axle nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I already beat the piss out of the 16" with a hammer, I'm gonna try some industrial strength penetrator from work tomorrow, worth a shot. If the variance isn't anything to be worried about, should I adjust the screws from where they are or from where they should be (if I get the nut loose)? Otherwise, I'm just pissed off about having to spend over $100 on something I've been able to do for free for years on my other bikes. Grrr....
 

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The factory lines on my KLR are 1/2 line off. I use a gauge I made that I set and check both sides from the swing arm nut to the axel nut. The tool is a large beam protactor. OR you can buy a fancy tool at a good shop the line the drive line up. Most of the wear will show up in a shortened chain life.
 

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I bought an XR and the first time I tried to loosen the axle nut, I couldn't budge it and ended up bending my wrench. I went down to the local tire shop and they couldn't break it loose with their biggest air gun. Finally I got a friend of mine who's a brick layer and has arms as big as my thighs who leaned over the seat with a 24"breaker bar and some "Ford" brand penetrating fluid and he finally got it loose. No piled up threads, just 5 yrs of never breaking loose.....
 

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Did you remove the cotter pin? If so, you just need a better tool and more muscle power. Do you have access to a 1/2" drive breaker bar or impact wrench? You can use a 1-1/16" (26.9875mm) 6-point socket.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Adjusted bolts were against the blocks, but the side that was trailing wasn't tight. As for the axle bolt, I most definitely made sure the cotter pin was out, and even though I only tip the scales at 140 lbs., I do own a torque wrench and know for damn sure that bolt should have broke loose if it was set properly. If I can pull it tight, I should be able to boot it loose, right? I just don't wanna strip threads and make my predicament worse. Doesn't seem like something I really wanna pound on, but of nobody thinks it'd be a problem, I'll throw a pipe over the rachet and bring out the sledgehammer.
 

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Adjusted bolts were against the blocks, but the side that was trailing wasn't tight. As for the axle bolt, I most definitely made sure the cotter pin was out, and even though I only tip the scales at 140 lbs., I do own a torque wrench and know for damn sure that bolt should have broke loose if it was set properly. If I can pull it tight, I should be able to boot it loose, right? I just don't wanna strip threads and make my predicament worse. Doesn't seem like something I really wanna pound on, but of nobody thinks it'd be a problem, I'll throw a pipe over the rachet and bring out the sledgehammer.

 

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If your ratchet can handle a pipe extention, use all your weight (and more) down on it without using a sledgehammer. Otherwise, quit fooling around and get a proper 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 6-point 1-1/16" socket before you break something.
 

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Borrow or rent a 1/2" drive electric impact wrench with a six-point 1 1/16" impact socket. My impact wrench has 350 ft-lbs of torque. The axle nut will come off. Adjust the axle as needed, then torque properly to 80 ft-lbs, and you'll be able to remove it when needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Fair enough. Thanks guys, I'll give 'er hell tomorrow, I've got some advanced lube, a breaker bar and a 300 lb C-50 rider lined up for tomorrow's lunch break entertainment. If it doesn't pop, looks like I'm in trouble.
 

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Put some heat on it.....and use a breaker bar. A propane or Map gas torch should be enough, if you need to go with an Oxyacetylene torch you probably will need a new axle.
 

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I'd be careful with the torch. Too much heat and you an cook the grease in the bearings and remember the swingarm's alu and I think there's some heat treating that could be hurt with to much heat there as well.

If push comes the shove I'd see if I could find a "Nut Breaker" and use that to cut the nut off. This tool slides over the nut and has a cutted blade on one side. You turn a bolt and it drive the blade into the nut breaking it. A lot of machineshop will have this type of tool so you can try and see if a local shop can help, and cost.


 

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I have had occasion to use a sliding handle breaker bar with a helper
This lets you apply pressure more equally
Sometimes a std breaker bar will cause the nut to distort & bind on the threads as will a crappy fitting socket. Haven't worked on anything much bigger than 500 hp compressors so my experience is somewhat limited.
 

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If your ratchet can handle a pipe extention, use all your weight (and more) down on it without using a sledgehammer. Otherwise, quit fooling around and get a proper 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 6-point 1-1/16" socket before you break something.
Geez. What he said.

Some of the fasteners on these bikes got over torqued from the factory. Put a breaker bar on it and stand on it. Don't beat it with a hammer, will just F things up. Or yeah, a 350lb pneumatic should do it as well. I prefer the strong-arm method myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I got it! Even a 300 lb guy standing on a breaker bar couldn't bust it loose, so I soaked it down with some more penetrating lube and let it sit overnight. Still no luck, so in a last ditch effort I heated it up a little (no torch, held my bic lighter on it for five minutes) and she popped loose right away. Turns out the wheel was out of alignment, after some careful measuring the stamped lines were right on, which explains why my chain seemed to be losing life fast. Thanks again for the advice, guys! I'm going riding!!!
 
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