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Versys 650 2017 ABS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
a month ago I asked you about a little problem I had with my 2017 Kawasaki versys 650.

My bike went into Limp mode (going max 3k RPM) every time and I wasn't sure what caused it.

I showed videos and also photos

Couple of friendly versys riders had given us some advice on what might be the cause. (very thankful)

But I didn't really come up with a solution. I approached several motorcycle dealers in my area (Kawasaki specialists) and one came up with something I haven't heard from anyone until now.


He asked me if my engine had already been serviced and I said yes at 22k km I gave my engine a service and a lot was replaced.

- Oil + Oil filter
- Sparkplugs + Air filter
  • Brake calipers made clean and common
  • Replace front and rear brake pads
  • Tires front and rear

- Chain set

He said the following:
My advice is then to have the boogies checked whether they are properly attached and the ignition coils or the like that are properly attached.

This is very different from what I normally read here or elsewhere. so my question is: Can a spark plug that is not seated properly cause THIS?



My older post:

Whats a limp mode ?(video of my versys) :
 

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2016 Versys 1000 CBF1000 VFR800
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Sounds like a misfire to me, so yes check your plugs and you may see by the burn which one is misfiring.... make note if that boot was seated on the plug...... but you can also have a bad plug.
That's not limp mode, it wouldn't misfire like that, but more of a rev limiter if limp mode even exists.... and if it did, likely check engine light would be on.
 

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Versys 650 2017 ABS
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like a misfire to me, so yes check your plugs and you may see by the burn which one is misfiring.... make note if that boot was seated on the plug...... but you can also have a bad plug.
That's not limp mode, it wouldn't misfire like that, but more of a rev limiter if limp mode even exists.... and if it did, likely check engine light would be on.
Engine light is on its F code 62 Something with the sub throttle.
six months ago I had my original exhaust removed and a Yoshimura installed, this occasionally an engine light, but I did not know what code it gave. I had often read that an o2 sensor could burn a light because there was no Cat under it, but after my maintenance this ''limp mode / rev limiter'' only really surfaced so the spark plug theory starts more logical for me than an exhaust problem.

there is one more thing if i can get the motor to talk then it will work fine. This only happens when I start the engine.
if it works normally then it normally drives I stop somewhere and I start it again later then it is a 50/50 case once it starts other times it won't.
 

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Engine light is on its F code 62 Something with the sub throttle.
six months ago I had my original exhaust removed and a Yoshimura installed, this occasionally an engine light, but I did not know what code it gave. I had often read that an o2 sensor could burn a light because there was no Cat under it, but after my maintenance this ''limp mode / rev limiter'' only really surfaced so the spark plug theory starts more logical for me than an exhaust problem.

there is one more thing if i can get the motor to talk then it will work fine. This only happens when I start the engine.
if it works normally then it normally drives I stop somewhere and I start it again later then it is a 50/50 case once it starts other times it won't.
Very first thing I will tell you, I use dielectric grease on the stick coils, be aware, never wipe from the plug end up or down, always in a circular motion. I put this grease on the inside of the boot with a q-tip. I want the boot to slide over the plug porcelain but I don't want any tracking from high voltage. Be aware, the high voltage will track, and when it does, it will produce carbon, which happens to be a good conductor, as is moisture. So the upper part of the stick coil is a series of rubber rings, I coat that with grease, the prime reason is a moisture barrier, the second is to allow easy insertion and removal. I was surprised at how much force is needed with the grease inside that rubber boot, the very last travel you feel it seat over the plug, imagine as the spark repetition increases, the voltage will drop, it could be a voltage cutoff at that RPM- As to explain why it works sometimes, it could be moisture has been driven out, and upon cooling, condensation set in.
Secondly, I would be checking my throttle body connection to the airbox, it is very easy for it to be off slightly and appear OK. Both valve shims I removed, and the biggest problem is the tightening Allen head cap screw, fortunately, I have 10-inch long Allen wrenches.
 
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