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Discussion Starter #1
I left the key in the on position overnight so the headlight was on (I was tired, long day) which emptied the battery: it wouldn't start the next day (no indicator on the display or anything, so I knew battery was dead). I tried jumping it from a car with the engine off, which brought up indicator checks and all ok lights on the dashboard but pressing the electronic starter only brough up a "clickclickclickclickclick" sound. I tried to push start with no luck either. I bought a battery charger, charged the battery overnight.
All indicators come up (time/speed/led light etc) but the same happens when I press the electronic starter: "clickclickclickclick!"
Any educated guess as to the issue? would it be the spark plug? is it because i left it on overnight or because I jumped it with a car?
Did I melt something?
How do I go about fixing it? I'm on a rental car right now and I do not have AAA...
:confused:
 

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I would check the voltage across the battery terminals with a meter first. You might have toasted the battery by totally draining it. If the solenoid is clicking I doubt you blew a fuse but I don't know if that's the sound you are describing or something else?
 

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first things first... go through the obvious things.
  1. make sure the key is in ON
  2. make sure your fuel cutoff is on ON
  3. make sure you are not in gear
  4. use a voltimeter to check your battery is at or slightly above 12.5
  5. try jumping it with the black on the frame and the red on the red terminal of the battery
  6. check fuses
I know these sound elementary but they account for most of the "problems"
:goodluck:
 

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Same thing happened to my bike when i was out of the country. My brother left it on and tried to charge it but no luck. The only way to get it to start was to put the charger on the highest setting with the charger still hooked up cranking the bike. It would start and run as long as the charger was still connected. Once the charger was disconnected the bike would die and no chance of starting it. Replace the stock battery wit a Gel and works like a charm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Weljo2001 did it make the weird clicking sound when you'd press the starter? because the readings on the display lead me to believe the battery is (now) ok after charging it overnight. I will take a voltmeter tonight and check the current voltage though. Thanks for the guidance!
 

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Weljo2001 did it make the weird clicking sound when you'd press the starter? because the readings on the display lead me to believe the battery is (now) ok after charging it overnight. I will take a voltmeter tonight and check the current voltage though. Thanks for the guidance!


Yep it would click after being charged. The charger indicated battery was charged but when the starter button was pressed just the clicking noise nothing else. The only way it would start was with the charger on the highest setting hooked to the battery while cranking the bike.Replaced with the battery below.

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/BikeMaster-TruGel-Battery-MG12-BS-p/4483458.htm
 

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first things first... go through the obvious things.
  1. make sure the key is in ON
  2. make sure your fuel cutoff is on ON
  3. make sure you are not in gear
  4. use a voltimeter to check your battery is at or slightly above 12.5
  5. try jumping it with the black on the frame and the red on the red terminal of the battery
  6. check fuses
+1 after checking that battery voltage is above 12.5, keep the meter on the battery and try starting the bike. If voltage drops to 9 volts the battery is toast.
 

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first things first... go through the obvious things.
  1. make sure the key is in ON
  2. make sure your fuel cutoff is on ON
  3. make sure you are not in gear
  4. use a voltimeter to check your battery is at or slightly above 12.5
  5. try jumping it with the black on the frame and the red on the red terminal of the battery
  6. check fuses
I know these sound elementary but they account for most of the "problems"
:goodluck:

Fuel cutoff? On a Versys? :confused: Do you mean the emergency cut-off switch (red, near the throttle)? Not really a fuel cut-off switch - it grounds out the ignition (going to the spark plugs) to ensure the engine doesn't run. Good suggestions otherwise as it's easy to get lost in the panic of the moment.


grasshoppa:
Sometimes the battery can have the proper voltage but not the proper capacity, especially on fuel injected engines. If you can borrow a good, fully charged battery to test with, it could help. Or take the battery to a local auto store and have them do a capacity test.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I went to a shop and spoke with the mechanic who agrees and says that usually when the battery is fully emptied it's gone for good, but he recommends i bring it in to have a look.
I looked at the charger (12v @ .75 A) vs the battery recommending stats ( 12V @ 1.5A) and it is possible that I just didn't charge it enough... I just assumed that it would work like a car (you know, jumpstart it and then drive it for a couple hours to recharge it.)

So at this point I'm just going to charge it again overnight and try it on in the morning. And check the voltage before/during/after. Thanks for the infos, I'll update with results...
 

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I don't know how old your battery is but if its more then a couple years old its probably not going to come back to life. Its probably also not going to come back if you are using a battery tender type charger with only 1.75 amps output, but good luck.
 

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Dun know abt bike, but for cars, if the jumper method didn't work the first time when trying to start (jumper cables connected to another car, engine running), I would leave the cables on, and wait 2 minutes to get the battery a little charged up first. Then, the 2nd attempt would normally start up the car, else the battery is toast. A little revving on the good car would ensure sufficient current during the start attempt.

The 'clickclickclick' sound is from an underpowered battery or power source, from a couple of experiences I had. The standard diagnostics of checking of the head lamp would turn on brightly in order to indicate a good charged up battery is flawed and is not 100% true at times (depending on car make and models). I had a done a couple of these tests on 2 cars, an Audi 5000S and a Honda City, both headlamps shone brightly but gave the 'clickclickclick' sound when turning the engine. But they started after jumpering them. Well, that's my learning.
 

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At least 1.2 amps is recommended for 20 hours if the battery is at less than 11.5 V. Standard charge is 1.2 A for 5 to 10 hours, and quick charge of 5 A for 1 h on battery with over 11.5 V.
Headlamp comes on only after operating the starter with the ignition on. Everything else is lit before starting it. You can have the headlamp on by blipping the starter switch without starting engine.
The battery in your '09 should still be ok. It won't have had time to sulphate much during the short term discharge. Lead-acid batteries do discharge more quickly in warmer ambient temperatures.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I bought a charger, charged it overnight. tried in the morning with no luck. Went to a bike shop and they gave me a used charged battery. Which worked. So I tried charging my old bat again over 24 hours, and low and behold, it worked!

...
So I took it to work today, and now there is another issue: the engine shuts off on stiff braking/decelerating (annoying for a street bike.) at some point I was unable to restart it form the center lane, and pissed a few ppl off.

My guess is an improperly connected battery cable which gets dislodged on braking. Let me know your theory!
 

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ISo I took it to work today, and now there is another issue: the engine shuts off on stiff braking/decelerating (annoying for a street bike.) at some point I was unable to restart it form the center lane, and pissed a few ppl off.

My guess is an improperly connected battery cable which gets dislodged on braking. Let me know your theory!


IMHO, as TalleyCannon says, if your bike is cutting out while braking or slowing your idle speed is probably to low since the engine should not be running off the battery. I'm guessing your original battery is toast and that is why it did not restart for you. Or, did you check the connections and manage to get it restarted ? I killed my oem once by leaving heated grips on a time or two to many and no matter how much I charged it it would no longer keep a charge.
 

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A few things to keep in mind with this...You cannot pop start the V when the battery is dead. A Kawi mechanic told me this, the bike needs a decent charge on the battery to start. Electric fuel pumps, injectors etc all need power to work. The alternators on motorcycles are small you can't tax them to hard. If you run a lot of accessories your using some battery power. Its a good idea to charge the battery every now and then because short trips don't allow the battery to get fully charged off the alternator.

Lead acid battery's can be fully discharged and brought back to life although I don't recommend relying on that. Gel Cells do NOT like to be fully discharged they will go bad much faster, they need to be kept charged all the time but not over charged or they go bad...personally I think Gel cells suck and are only good for applications where led acid is not practical.
 

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...
So I took it to work today, and now there is another issue: the engine shuts off on stiff braking/decelerating (annoying for a street bike.) at some point I was unable to restart it form the center lane, and pissed a few ppl off.

My guess is an improperly connected battery cable which gets dislodged on braking. Let me know your theory!
I'm guessing the battery is not the issue here...there is a short somewhere. Somewhere else on the forum someone had an issue of a wire shorting out on the seat bracket or something like that....check under there for a wire shorting on part of the frame....also make sure your battery connections are tight and clean.
 

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Now that it's been a few days, wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a $70 battery than renting a car? Also, riding around with a crappy battery raises hell with the bikes meager charging system (which is way more expensive to replace). Just sayin'.
 

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In my experience with car and motorcycle batteries, if left to fully drain....they usually don't last very long even if revived by charger. They always seem die in a month or two and at the worst possible location.

The peace of mind from a strong new battery over crossed fingers every time you hit the start button is worth the money to buy a good quality battery.

:cheers: Cheers!
 
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