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Have you tried searching for your inspection regulations? It would give you the items that the inspector has to look for. In my state the signals need to have DOT on the lenses and be a certain distance from the head/tail light. Many aftermarket signal lights are labeled as offroad only and don't have the DOT markings. The same for led headlights. Another thing is that fog lights have to be switched to turn off when you turn on the high beam.

Most regulations are way behind current technology so some inspectors will ignore common modifications others will go by the letter of the law. Just because everyone does a certain modification doesn't mean it is legal.

It sounds like you are doing everything you can to have a safe and legal bike. Good luck
 

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Hi, everybody. Sorry for my English. I installed LED turn signals with ALIEXPRESS. We have in Russia with a technical inspection is simple (you can buy it), so you can put anything you want))). But those turn signals that I installed are bright enough to shine, not worse than def. For mounting in a regular place, I printed an adapter on a 3d printer.

video
foto
3D Model

PS I use soda to work with cyanacrylate
 

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A simple trick to make your rear lights brighter for better visibility is to put tin foil or cut up a foil pie dish and fit behind the bulb. Does not work for LED turn signals though.
Instead of a complete LED turn signal you could use the existing turn signal and install a suitable LED bulb in it. Tin foil in the back of the housing makes the lights much brighter.
 

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A simple trick to make your rear lights brighter for better visibility is to put tin foil or cut up a foil pie dish and fit behind the bulb. Does not work for LED turn signals though.
Instead of a complete LED turn signal you could use the existing turn signal and install a suitable LED bulb in it. Tin foil in the back of the housing makes the lights much brighter.
another trick is using the foil duct tape used by sheet metal workers
 

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A simple trick to make your rear lights brighter for better visibility is to put tin foil or cut up a foil pie dish and fit behind the bulb. Does not work for LED turn signals though.
Instead of a complete LED turn signal you could use the existing turn signal and install a suitable LED bulb in it. Tin foil in the back of the housing makes the lights much brighter.
Our OEM turn signal housing has a chrome finish as a reflector. Although not a very thick layer of chrome as I found out when I rubbed too hard with a paper towel. Youre saying its better than whats already there?
 

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I used Rizoma adaptor plates and TST turn signals (very bright and non-expensive). I really dislike the OEM turn signals. The design is plain stupid; that flimsy rubber that holds them can break any time, as it did on several on my bikes. TST also sells adaptor plates, but I find Rizoma stronger and having more correct shape... i think they are more secure that gluing a single plate.
rizoma plates.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well I definitely live in country with some stupid laws.
I come back now from inspection station, I check what I need to legaly have LED aftermarket turn signals.

Although the turn signal is approved by the European Union, homologated and e-marked. When I put them on the motorbike I have to go to the inspection station to do a certificate (atest on my language).
A certificate (atest) as a document is a statement that a certain product has those technological and other properties that are provided by the standards, or that customers expect from those goods or are provided by the relevant standards.

So basically tehnician guy told me, If I add aftermarket turn signal which are not same shape like OEM turn signal I need to make that atest.
I ask him what about original Kawasaki LED turn signal?
He say it is same, because that LED are not available for that motorbike (because they look on pictures of that model V650 on computer and they will see that originaly V650 don't have LED turn signal), and OEM kawasaki LED turn signal (from V1000) look different from OEM V650 turn signal and I also need to make atest (really really stupid law).

So tehnician told me, put LED turn signals on motorbike, bring motorbike to inspection, and they will check all papers from the turn signals, take pictures of that papers, and pictures of my motorbike, and than they will send all documentation to CVH (Croatian Vehicle Center), and they will then decide if these turn signals are good and according to our regulations and requirements.
But I am 99% sure that will be approved because that turn signals it is approved in EU.

All in all it costs about $ 50 and I need to come 2 weeks before renewing the registration. So if they approve turn signals, then on renewal of registration they will add in the vehicle booklet that I have LED turn signals and then I am legal under all possible laws.

Oo I will see if I will take the LED turn signals at all, because in the end it will cost a lot more than I thought, and especially if they don't approve the turn signals then it's like I threw money in the wind.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
You mean that if you put a LED light in the stock OEM turn signal housing they will fail you?
I mean if I use whole LED turn signal from V1000 (I just ask them, OEM led turn signals are really expensive)
I really think that will not be problem with LED bulb in turn signal, because that is same like LED headlight if i choose that instead normaln halogen bulb for headlight.

Do you have some recommendation for LED bulb which I can put inside OEM turn signal, I don't know what kind of tipe of led "bulb" I need to look?
 

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Do you have some recommendation for LED bulb which I can put inside OEM turn signal, I don't know what kind of tipe of led "bulb" I need to look?
If you want plug and play I put these in when I bought the bike years ago,check the numbers. 60,000 K on them so far.
Inertia LED - RY10W, BAU15S, 7507, 12093NA Motorcycle Can-Bus Amber 10W LED Turn Signal Replacement Bulb
Other riders change the flasher unit and buy any 10 watt LED that fits in the housing. This is cheaper but you have to change the bikes flasher unit to match the impedance of the LED 'bulbs'.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
If you want plug and play I put these in when I bought the bike years ago,check the numbers. 60,000 K on them so far.
So you are satisfied with them. Light are I assume much stronger than OEM bulb.
Price are almost same like full LED turn signals, but with this I don't need to do atest and I will not have any problems with technical inspection,police, laws...

So, I need to buy 4 led bulb + flasher and problem solved.

Thank you :giggle:
 
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So, I need to buy 4 led bulb + flasher
You dont need to replace the flasher with the Inertia LEDs, they plug right in. The dont hyperflash so they must be resisted up individually I assume. From a power draw point of view I dont know whether its better or worse than using regular LEDs with a replacement flasher unit but its not constant power anyways. Onewizard would know. The good thing about the Inertia is you could replace with a OEM bulb if one LED blew. But thats unlikely as they only get used for turning.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
You dont need to replace the flasher with the Inertia LEDs, they plug right in.
When you say Inertia LED, you mean on RY10W type (model) LED bulb?

I find this RY10W LED bulb in shop which shipping to my country:


I will send them mail just to be sure that I don't need relay flasher, because I don't see anywhere on site extra information about that, and I don't see manufacturer / brand to check there information.
 

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I paid something like $3 or $4 Canadian for my 3 wire adjustable flash rate flasher, it took more time getting the plastic off and back on than wiring the flasher, I can use either incandescent and or LED combined. My bike is completely LED now.
 

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these LED bulbs are cheaper and brighter than the interia ones:
So these need the additional flasher unit to avoid Canbus hyperflash. Not a big deal as Onewizard pointed out. 4.2 watts,650 lumen per bulb. The Inertias are resisted, no new flasher unit needed. Cant get the straight info on their output but probably the same. They say 10 watts 700 lumen I think. A pair?.Cant imagine legally getting any brighter than these. I got them before I knew about the simple flasher relay fix for the Canbus hyperlash. Since the Inertia is aimed at BMW riders Id say overpriced!
 

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Standard flasher uses current draw to heat and bend the bimetallic contact point. So when one bulb burns out it heats up faster, hyper flash rate. It is an indicator that you have a bad bulb. Led bulbs draw less current so the flasher thinks you have a bulb out. Solution is to add a resistor so they act the same as incandescent bulb. You lose the benefit of the lower power draw of LED's. Or to replace the flasher with one that uses a micro-processor as a timer not the bimetallic contact to control the flash rate. It isn't the Canbus that causes the hyper flash rate it is the lower power draw of any LED. Canbus bulbs are made to be compatible with vehicles that have dash indicators that tell you which bulb is out through the computer. Canbus is the computer communication system. If you put in a non Canbus bulb the computer will not see it and still show that the bulb is bad. I don't think our bikes have Canbus systems. I know that my gen 2 doesn't.

Try going to Super-bright Leds to look for a compatible led bulb replacement by bulb type.
 

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I thought I would post here as maneuvering the forum is difficult for many. The thread was meant to aid in converting. Our bike is not Canbus . It is extremely easy to convert to a 3 wire signal relay flasher. To briefly explain the difference between 2 wire and 3 wire.
Old 2 wire and solid state 2 wire replacement are identical in design, the modern version uses a voltage drop across the device to provide the power to drive a internal timer , it has a fixed minimum current rating which is equal to the voltage it requires to operate. The very old 2 wire flasher had a larger resistance that all signal light current went through , which provided a voltage drop , which in turn powered a capacitor, when a bulb would burn out, the saved charge was less to the contact would drop out faster, that flasher was engineered on the total load of the car's signal light wattage.
The 3 wire flasher is a solid state timer, first of all the signal current goes 100% through the contact , zero voltage drop. Secondly the timing of the relay is adjustable on all the ones I have recommended, roughly $4 from China or your preferred source , the downfall to this is the fact that if either your incandescent or led signal fails, there is no change in flash rate.

FYI something many people in Canada ( Ontario specifically)anyway aren't aware of, that is the responsibility of the driver to be aware of the working order of signal and headlights.

That was a requirement of me every morning driving a service truck to file a safety report of the vehicle online with the company. That applies to motorcycles as well, if you are pulled over, stating you didn't know your headlight had failed isn't a excuse unless you could prove it just happened, in many cases a police officer can issue a request for you to prove it was repaired after being pulled over ( you are given a reasonable amount of time to do this).

 
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