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Discussion Starter #1
For those of you that have the V2 whats the easiest way to change out the city light above the headlight? How much do you have to tear apart to get to it?
 

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took me a couple of minutes on my 2012.

Best from LHS, turn wheel all the way left and I stuck my 4XL hands up there. Managed to pull the light out and fit an T10 LED.

I know what to feel for up there as I have had the front apart a few times. Well more like 10 times now in 6 months.
It will be a bit harder if you have never seen the back of the headlight without all the plastic housing and instrument cluster on.

If you want more hand room then take the LHS faring panel off.
You will also be able to see up under there a bit easier.

Oh wait... you have all that fancy Honda side panel and beak stuff on your bike now... Add 35 minutes :p
 

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I just reached in from the side and pulled the bulb holder out of the housing
If you have a camera or one on your phone point it up from the bottom and take a picture helps to locate whats under the panels .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
took me a couple of minutes on my 2012.

Best from LHS, turn wheel all the way left and I stuck my 4XL hands up there. Managed to pull the light out and fit an T10 LED.

I know what to feel for up there as I have had the front apart a few times. Well more like 10 times now in 6 months.
It will be a bit harder if you have never seen the back of the headlight without all the plastic housing and instrument cluster on.

If you want more hand room then take the LHS faring panel off.
You will also be able to see up under there a bit easier.

Oh wait... you have all that fancy Honda side panel and beak stuff on your bike now... Add 35 minutes :p
Don't hate… :thumbdown: BTW I tried when I got home this morning, after working a 12 hour nightshift and I did it in 2 minutes! Even with my size 11 hands and all that fancy panels and beak stuff attached. Too bad the LED was too long:eek: and it wouldn't allow me to twist the socket back in &@""@##% So I ended up putting the crappy 194 bulb back in for now.
 

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Yeah, the LED makes it much brighter/noticeable. I opted for a 45* forward facing, because it's not big enough to blind you, but you will notice it much more from the front.
 

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Kawasaki Relay Kits / AUX. Outlet

Success!

Thanks to Onewizard's great suggestion and thorough description, the lights are on and working beautifully. I followed his #2 option as I didn't see a specific need for keyed lighting activation. Below is a collection of project pics. As you can see the MM10's are awesome. I think they look like they compliment the bike as well as any other lighting system out there. Sure, they're not the cheapest...but you usually get what you pay for and these lights are SOLID!

Pic 1: Pre-drilled L-shaped mounting bracket purchased form Ace for $1.50 piece. I bent them closed a tad so that they would align the lights on the bike in proper balance. I took the extra step of wrapping the brackets with electrical tape (improved look and snug).

Pic 2: Mounting location under tank faring (R and L) - using existing radiator plastics attachment sockets - perfect!!

Pic 3 and 4: Lights mounted...solid as can be!

Pic 5: Handle bar switch (an optional addition - much better then the standard switch that comes in the package).

Pic 6: All buttoned up.

Pic 7: Ready to roll!

There you have it. Once I knew which stock wire (city light) to splice into with the positive switch lead, everything fell right into place. I'm just waiting for the LED bulbs for the head lights to arrive.
My thought on using the city lights Brown with White tracer, and this comes from seeing others using their motorcycle for touring, getting in late to set up camp in the dark. Using the city lights in the park position, you could use those MondoMotos for a 1.5 hours, without the motor running and without drastically affecting the charge, last 10 minutes of use you could start the bike , and if you had added a series regulator and followed my post on Polaris you could have the battery fully charged in about 7 minutes .

Added a couple links for auxiliary connections for relay kits.

https://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999940195/ii_999940195.pdf

The 195 is designed to be mounted by the TPS and includes a mounting bracket, designed to power heated grips and make use of existing wiring in 2010 on bikes.

http://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999940485/ii_999940485.pdf

The above shows the pricey cigarette lighter socket for 2015 /2016

http://www.kawasaki.com/Content/Uploads/Accessories/999940556/ii_999940556.pdf

The 556 is relay kit for the front harness of 2015 / 2016 , reasonably priced---yes you can get a relay from China for 1/4 of this, not really waterproof.

The above are relay kits, drawings from Kawasaki.
 

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For turn signal on 2009 I had Sumitomo .050 connectors

Sumitomo .050 connectors

Not sure yet if 2015 has the same, but I'll check soon.
2015 uses same connectors - Sumitomo 2 Pin HB .050 Turn Signal Connector.
Honda - Kawasaki Motorcycle Turn Signal Connectors
I highly recommend Cycle Terminal. They are in New Jersey and ship the same day.
The only difference I can find in the 2015 wiring is in the headlight. The 2015 uses a H7 connector, and does not use the H4 to H7 adapter.
 

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City Lights actual Wattage ? LED replacement

So I have done more research, OEM city lights or T10-T68-12961 or T194, all the same 5 watt at 12 VDC
So actaul wattage at 14.5 VDC is 0.400 AMP X 14.5 VDC =5.8 watt

LED at 0.08 amp X 14.5 VDC= 1.16 watt or 1/5 the wattage / current of incandescent bulb.

There are LED lights and then there are Philips Vision, I have run these in my 07 for over 300 hours--yes they are pricey , but work awesome!

So I have included a picture of these, I am sure like everything, they will come down in price, for me shipping is a large part of the cost, basically more than the cost of two 194 LED just to ship!
 

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I've replaced my city light three times. Each time it failed was with an LED bulb I bought off Ebay. Each was a different design. Each also lasted 1-2 weeks before burning out. Think I'm going back to using an incandescent OEM type bulb. BTW I've verified it was the bulb and not a wiring issue.

My speculation is that the enclosed compartment for the bulb allows the LED to get too hot. Incandescent bulbs produce more heat but are not easily damaged by heat either.

Might try the vision though if it comes with a warranty. Also there is not much room on the Versys for a bulb that is any longer (sticks out further) than the stock incandescent bulb. Most LEDs are longer.
 

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I've replaced my city light three times. Each time it failed was with an LED bulb I bought off Ebay. Each was a different design. Each also lasted 1-2 weeks before burning out. Think I'm going back to using an incandescent OEM type bulb. BTW I've verified it was the bulb and not a wiring issue.

My speculation is that the enclosed compartment for the bulb allows the LED to get too hot. Incandescent bulbs produce more heat but are not easily damaged by heat either.

Might try the vision though if it comes with a warranty. Also there is not much room on the Versys for a bulb that is any longer (sticks out further) than the stock incandescent bulb. Most LEDs are longer.
Yes I can vouch for that,I was given what was stated as top notch LEDs that my son purchased from a supplier that their specialty is LEDS, those lasted 3 weeks and failed. Philips 194 bulbs are over 200 hours of operation, yes they aren't $2.00 each, yes there are similar LED's on Ebay that state Philips T194 like bulbs, no where will you see the word Philips on the bulb or packaging, and that is because they aren't Philips.
If you want Philips Vision LED, you will need to pay $12 to $14 USD, now I have seen a add in the US stating Walmart carries these.
By the way, with my Compu-Fire regulator and brake triggered headlight, I have hit 14.9 VDC for a few seconds, the only load is base electrics and the LEDs.
 

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i got the led bulbs from walfart and they haven't let me down
 

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I like the idea of a white LED bulb for it's increased visibility. They stand out more.

BTW - what is a brake triggered headlight?
 

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Compu-Fire or Polaris Regulator

I like the idea of a white LED bulb for it's increased visibility. They stand out more.

BTW - what is a brake triggered headlight?
To adapt either regulator I found the headlight relay discharges the battery at about 0.036 amp, two weeks and the bike won't start. My work around was to cut pin #2 black wire of the headlight relay, I use the brake light to initially trigger the relay, once on only two ways to turn off, one is with the key, the second is to hit the starter for 1 second or less.
There are 3 bikes in Ontario wired that way now. The 2015 is real simple compared to my former 07. So when I initially start the bike, the headlight is off, battery comes up to full charge faster while it warms up. I don't know of anybody that can ride a bike very far without hitting the brake.
It has been asked before, the current to trigger the headlight from the brake light is about 0.050 amps for about 3 milliseconds, after that the relay is latched in.
 

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To adapt either regulator I found the headlight relay discharges the battery at about 0.036 amp, two weeks and the bike won't start. My work around was to cut pin #2 black wire of the headlight relay, I use the brake light to initially trigger the relay, once on only two ways to turn off, one is with the key, the second is to hit the starter for 1 second or less.
There are 3 bikes in Ontario wired that way now. The 2015 is real simple compared to my former 07. So when I initially start the bike, the headlight is off, battery comes up to full charge faster while it warms up. I don't know of anybody that can ride a bike very far without hitting the brake.
It has been asked before, the current to trigger the headlight from the brake light is about 0.050 amps for about 3 milliseconds, after that the relay is latched in.
You have a wiring issue or more likely a worn out battery. There should be almost no current flow with the ignition off. The only thing to draw power with the ignition off is the clock. By the way, 0.036 amps is well within the margin of error of a typical home use meter.

I stored my bike for 4 months without removing the battery or charging it. It started OK first try although I will say it did not crank as fast as a fully charge battery.
 

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You have a wiring issue or more likely a worn out battery. There should be almost no current flow with the ignition off. The only thing to draw power with the ignition off is the clock. By the way, 0.036 amps is well within the margin of error of a typical home use meter.

I stored my bike for 4 months without removing the battery or charging it. It started OK first try although I will say it did not crank as fast as a fully charge battery.
twowheels: please understand that onewizard is referring to issues involved with upgrading the regulator/rectifier from a shunt to a series design. I can assure you that ONEWIZARD does not have a worn out battery, and his "wiring issue,'" is better intended for study and education.
 
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