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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
All right this is driving me crazy at this point. I get this breaking up under 4,000 RPM very noticeable in first gear it seems like it's misfiring sometimes it's severe sometimes it's not but I can constantly hear and feel it. Why is this a problem just go faster you say? That's great now but when I go on a trail or go off road and I'm crawling in first gear the constant stuttering is really bad especially when you're under very slight throttle and it does it it'll almost stop the bike.

Here's the things that I've done to try to solve this problem, replace the spark plugs, replaced the coils, I've had the battery checked, went through all the connectors filled them with dielectric grease make sure they were clean I mean every single one even the computer ect, I've done a valve job got all the valves back to clearance, I've checked for any wires that might be shorted out or damaged can't find any, I disconnected the power Commander thinking that could be it nope, ran a super rich mixture on purpose thinking it was leaning out didn't make a difference, I checked the TPS sensor and it seems to be fine I even went on a ride with my laptop on my lap to confirm that it's not dropping below a certain voltage when this misfire happens and it isn't everything seems normal there. I've removed the pair valve and capped off both ends of those pipes as well and I've also taken out the secondary butterflies in the intake. Replaced the breather tube with a fresh one under the airbox. Also put a nice fresh line to that sensor that sits on the left side that connects to the throttle body not sure what that does but definitely makes a significant performance decrease when it's disconnected.

What other possibilities could it be? Stator not strong enough to give it a spark? Cam sensor going bad? What other sensors can attribute to this type of annoying problem? When the bike is wide open it's fine it has no problem ripping through the gears.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Maybe there's a few sensors that I could jump just to eliminate like the tip over sensor or maybe the kickstand sensor maybe something there is screwing up?

2012 650 with 18k miles.
 

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First, it is never a good idea to start a new thread.
Have you checked the volts DC at the tip over switch-both the supply voltage and signal voltage to the ECU? Also, did you check and clean the frame grounds, in particular, the ECU grounds, the ECU does not have a negative copper wire from the battery charging system, it relies on the frame ground --this is due to high-frequency noise and something like cross-talk on old communications. As RPM increases the voltage goes up but in particular, the current increase usually equals heat increase and expansion= a better connection.

Also, be aware the stick coils and injectors have a positive feed directly to them, the negative is supplied by the ECU== again the grounds come into play, as does a possible corrosion problem at the ECU-in earlier posts you mention cleaning all connections and adding dielectric grease-was the ECU done this way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
First, it is never a good idea to start a new thread.
Have you checked the volts DC at the tip over switch-both the supply voltage and signal voltage to the ECU? Also, did you check and clean the frame grounds, in particular, the ECU grounds, the ECU does not have a negative copper wire from the battery charging system, it relies on the frame ground --this is due to high-frequency noise and something like cross-talk on old communications. As RPM increases the voltage goes up but in particular, the current increase usually equals heat increase and expansion= a better connection.

Also, be aware the stick coils and injectors have a positive feed directly to them, the negative is supplied by the ECU== again the grounds come into play, as does a possible corrosion problem at the ECU-in earlier posts you mention cleaning all connections and adding dielectric grease-was the ECU done this way?
Yes sir I did in fact clean the grounds they are spotless and I even went next to the computer where there's another one and cleaned all those as well I cleaned everything as best as I could and dielectric grease!

Sorry about making another thread too I should have just put it here!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
First, it is never a good idea to start a new thread.
Have you checked the volts DC at the tip over switch-both the supply voltage and signal voltage to the ECU? Also, did you check and clean the frame grounds, in particular, the ECU grounds, the ECU does not have a negative copper wire from the battery charging system, it relies on the frame ground --this is due to high-frequency noise and something like cross-talk on old communications. As RPM increases the voltage goes up but in particular, the current increase usually equals heat increase and expansion= a better connection.

Also, be aware the stick coils and injectors have a positive feed directly to them, the negative is supplied by the ECU== again the grounds come into play, as does a possible corrosion problem at the ECU-in earlier posts you mention cleaning all connections and adding dielectric grease-was the ECU done this way?
I did not check the voltage at the tip over switch but I figured I would just jump those temporarily? Is that something I can do safety?
 

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I did not check the voltage at the tip over switch but I figured I would just jump those temporarily? Is that something I can do safety?
I asked because the MK-1&2 had a different 5 volt supply and part of it came from the cluster. There is a work around by @dddd , my money is on the ECU and ECU Grounds.

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I asked because the MK-1&2 had a different 5 volt supply and part of it came from the cluster. There is a work around by @dddd , my money is on the ECU and ECU Grounds.
Yeah any and all grounds and connections have been cleaned and dielectric grease! I took apart quite literally everything lol it's been driving me that mad😳
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I asked because the MK-1&2 had a different 5 volt supply and part of it came from the cluster. There is a work around by @dddd , my money is on the ECU and ECU Grounds.
If there is a ground I missed I don't know where it would be the only wire I didn't actually disconnect and clean was the one going to the starter but I'm not having problems with that. All the connections next to the computer when you take off that little plastic cover has been cleaned and the ones to the frame!
 

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If there is a ground I missed I don't know where it would be the only wire I didn't actually disconnect and clean was the one going to the starter but I'm not having problems with that. All the connections next to the computer when you take off that little plastic cover has been cleaned and the ones to the frame!
On the MK-2 , have you had the ECU out? Have you followed the wire harness from the ECU, as two grounds are in one of the two harnesses from the ECU and connect to the cross member at the seat, they are 18 gauge.
The tip-over switch is a latch circuit, two symptoms, one the bike starts and runs for 3 to 5 seconds and shuts off, starter works, but will not continue to run, keying off then back on, it will repeat with a start and then quit. The second symptom is similar to what you are experiencing, however, the TPC also mimics those same symptoms--one question, have you followed the manual on the TPS --also are all vacuum lines new?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
On the MK-2 , have you had the ECU out? Have you followed the wire harness from the ECU, as two grounds are in one of the two harnesses from the ECU and connect to the cross member at the seat, they are 18 gauge.
The tip-over switch is a latch circuit, two symptoms, one the bike starts and runs for 3 to 5 seconds and shuts off, starter works, but will not continue to run, keying off then back on, it will repeat with a start and then quit. The second symptom is similar to what you are experiencing, however, the TPC also mimics those same symptoms--one question, have you followed the manual on the TPS --also are all vacuum lines new?
I have set my TPS to 1030 idle via power commander software.! It's tuned perfectly, I actually read through this forum that you posted already, lots of good info.
 

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So what about the vacuum lines?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I have set my TPS to 1030 idle via power commander software.! It's tuned perfectly, I actually read through this forum that you posted already, lots of good info.
Adjusted with the engine hot and I even drove around when it had this problem with the power Commander open on my lap and it didn't dip below the idle voltage so I don't think it's the TPS sensor.
 

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They have already been replaced and I just replaced it again just to be sure at least the one that runs to whatever that sensor is on the left fairing. I've jumped the middle throttle body with the vaccume hose ages ago!
Middle throttle body?? This is a V 650, right?
 

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So I was about to say, 4 possibilities, a loose/corroded ECU ground --A cracked vacuum line- air bypassing the airbox--vehicle down sensor but that would be a stretch, fairly easy to check with a volt meter. Values are in the thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
So I was about to say, 4 possibilities, a loose/corroded ECU ground --A cracked vacuum line- air bypassing the airbox--vehicle down sensor but that would be a stretch, fairly easy to check with a volt meter. Values are in the thread.
Yeah I could check the down sensor I have laid the bike down a couple times so maybe it's not meant to be used over and over again? I thought maybe the fuel pump or something that's probably crazy it does leak though when the fuel line isn't connected maybe that actually is a problem I don't think it's supposed to!
 

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Yeah I could check the down sensor I have laid the bike down a couple times so maybe it's not meant to be used over and over again? I thought maybe the fuel pump or something that's probably crazy it does leak though when the fuel line isn't connected maybe that actually is a problem I don't think it's supposed to!
If it was the fuel pump, it would happen above 4000 RPM and under hard acceleration- as to leaking, when the fuel line is removed from the tank? I get about 2 oz come out when doing a valve shim.
The tip-over switch has been found to be a problem more so on MK-3 and generally related to being outside in rain, repeatedly. The thing is, it disables the stick coils, fuel pump and injectors and generally latches.

Read this thread-
 
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